New Batteries

[MandKJohns]

Evening all,

I recently purchased my first TT. 2002 Dutchmen 27' Bunkhouse. (Not sure of the model # because the sticker is missing from beside the door. Anywhere else to find this info?)

When I purchased this TT there were no batteries on it. I am trying to figure out what my best options for batteries will be. My questions are, will it be best to do 2 12v or 2 6v? Should I run them in series or parallel? I can't find a converter or an inverter (not sure which one it should be.) What exactly are the batteries for, are they just for boon docking purposes or do they serve a purpose while connected to shore power as well? Will they charge while connected to shore power?

Sorry for so many questions thanks all in advance for the help.

Matt

[wa8yxm]

theoldwizard1 wrote:
Best "bang for the buck" are 2 6V golf cart batteries hooked in series to provide 12V.

Dang Wiz.. I should have copyrighted that line :)... Oh, and in other places I'm known as "John from Detroit" so we have S.E. MI in common too. HOpe to get back into that area come spring by the way.. These days in the summer I hang out in Davison/Richfield TWP area (East of Flint) and St. Clair area... Been stuck here in GA for a couple years due to a blown engine Originally ticked that it went BOOM (it did go BOOM) but have come to realize it's a good thing.. I shop in Flint.

[BFL13]

tntcrock wrote:
I would recommend a battery installed, even when mostly using shore power.
My 5th wheel requires a battery for closing slides and if I run alot of lights and furnace. If battery is switched off, I can tell a difference in operations.

The Law requires a working battery to operate the trailer brakes in a break-away whenever the trailer is being towed.

[tntcrock]

I would recommend a battery installed, even when mostly using shore power.
My 5th wheel requires a battery for closing slides and if I run alot of lights and furnace. If battery is switched off, I can tell a difference in operations.

[wa8yxm]

Provided there is room in the tray your best "Bang for the buck" is a pair of GC-2 from Sam's club, these are, when being transported from store to RV, six volt batteries but when properly installed (wired in series) a bit of engineering magic happens and they become one BIG (size 4D to be precise) 12 volt battery.. that is 230 amp hours, for the cost of about 150 in most cases.

They are also DEEP CYCLE. this means they stand a far better chance of recovering from an "OH, ****" level discharge.. MARINE/deep cycle (most 12 volt batteries are MARINE/deep cycle) are really starting batteries and do not like a deep discharge.

Of course you do need to DISTILLED WATER GC-2s from time to time (Mine have gone 3 years w/o but I baby them)

[DrewE]

lc0338 wrote:

So even if the fridge is running off propane down the road I still have to have the batteries? Ok so since I am connected to shore power at my house now and everything is working then it's safe to assume to converter is working then right?

Yes, and yes. (There are, or at least were, some fridges which did not need 12V power, but they are very uncommon these days. You'd have to manually light the burner somehow, maybe with a pezio igniter button on the control panel. You almost certainly don't have one of them.)

You should have some sort of a battery connected up when pulling the trailer because the breakaway braking system won't work without a battery, assuming you have electric brakes. For traveling around where you camp at places with electric power available, a single 12V "Marine/RV" battery should be entirely sufficient and would be the most economical reasonable choice.

For more extended use without external power, a pair of 6V golf cart batteries (wired in series, to form a single 12V battery) usually gives the best bang for the buck if you have space for two batteries only. There are some more expensive and esoteric options that have more capacity...in many cases, a lot more expensive.

[pianotuna]

If you plan to be a power pole princess, then a single 12 volt battery of almost any design will work.

If you plan to boondock off the grid, then choose the bank optimizing for the greatest number of amp-hours of battery that will fit the available space without exceeding the weight capacity of the compartments.

[lc0338]

Yep, if everything is working off shore power it means the converter is doing what it's supposed to do. Now remember, when you unplug the shore power.. the micorwave, air conditioner will not work. Unless the Television is 12 volt it will not work either. none of the 110 volt plugin's will work either, once unplugged to shore power. Most everything else will work... like the fan on the heater, etc. but go too long without shore power and caputt goes the charge on the battery.


So even if the fridge is running off propane down the road I still have to have the batteries? Ok so since I am connected to shore power at my house now and everything is working then it's safe to assume to converter is working then right?

[MandKJohns]

It has not been modified. It's a standard rv fridge.

[lc0338]

Unless your rig has been modified and someone installed a household frig it should work on 12volt (battery) and propane. Some frig's work on either propane and also on electric. It might have a button that say's "auto" so it senses what power source is available and automatically switches.


I mostly plan to be at a campground connected to shore power. But I would like my fridge to be able to run while going down the road.

[lc0338]

part 1



part 2

[MandKJohns]

lc0338 wrote:
Need to know what you plan to do in your RV? If you will be hooked up to electric in a campground all the time then 2 12 volts is cheapest route.

If you plan to boondock and not be hooked up to campground electric then 2 6volt batteries are best because you can usually get more Amp hours (AH) in 6 volt batteries.

Then you will have to determine if you want wet cell or AGM? If you are lazy like me and don't want to have to worry about putting water in them then buy AGM type. If you don't mind maintaining the batteries then wet cell will be a little less cost. Another perk with AGM is there will be no corrosion on the cables and battery terminals 🙂

I mostly plan to be at a campground connected to shore power. But I would like my fridge to be able to run while going down the road.

[MandKJohns]

MrWizard wrote:
The batteries provide control power for the fridge, thermostats , water pump, lights
The fridge will not work while traveling, if there are no batteries

Your converter charges the batteries, and supplies power for the 12v system, powering lights water pump, while keeping the batteries charged

So even if the fridge is running off propane down the road I still have to have the batteries? Ok so since I am connected to shore power at my house now and everything is working then it's safe to assume to converter is working then right?

[lc0338]

Need to know what you plan to do in your RV? If you will be hooked up to electric in a campground all the time then 2 12 volts is cheapest route.

If you plan to boondock and not be hooked up to campground electric then 2 6volt batteries are best because you can usually get more Amp hours (AH) in 6 volt batteries.

Then you will have to determine if you want wet cell or AGM? If you are lazy like me and don't want to have to worry about putting water in them then buy AGM type. If you don't mind maintaining the batteries then wet cell will be a little less cost. Another perk with AGM is there will be no corrosion on the cables and battery terminals 🙂

[MrWizard]

The batteries provide control power for the fridge, thermostats , water pump, lights
The fridge will not work while traveling, if there are no batteries

Your converter charges the batteries, and supplies power for the 12v system, powering lights water pump, while keeping the batteries charged