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New converter or New battery charger?

marquette
Explorer
Explorer
I'm looking at installing a new Engel fridge in my camper to replace the dorm fridge the previous owner had installed. The trailer is a 1985 Scotty so I assume the converter has a "dumb" charger. Since I am changing over to 2 6v GC batteries I want good charging capabilities. So the question is am I better removing the converter and replacing it with something like a PD9245C or disabling the old converter "dumb charger" and installing a good 3 stage battery charger. I appears cost difference is about $50 so not a deal breaker either way. Most places I camp allow no generators or about 2-3 hrs per day so I need to put as much back in the battery as I can in a short period of time.
9 REPLIES 9

wa8yxm
Explorer III
Explorer III
marquette wrote:
So the question is am I better removing the converter and replacing it with something like a PD9245C or disabling the old converter "dumb charger" and installing a good 3 stage battery charger.


On it's face the question is "Which is greater Six or half a dozen"

A converter,,, Is a battery charger with ONE additional part (Filter cap) that's all. One slight difference, Some 3 stage chargers go into BULK if needed when first connected and activated, then absorption, then float. BUT WILL NOT GO BACK to the higher voltage charges unless dissconnected and reset.

The Converter.. Monitors and changes modes as needed.

And as with everything some are better than others. The Progressive Dynamics Intella-power 9200 line.. NONE better. period.. Some come close, but none better.. That is what I would recommend. Only thing better than a 9200 is a 9200.. yes the very same thing. WITH the optional dongle, and then only if you know how to use the dongle.

What do I have,, A 9180 with wizard, which means it is identical to a 9280 with dongle. And yes I know how to use it.
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times

RJsfishin
Explorer
Explorer
If you don't go larger than the 45 amp, you don't need to change any wiring.
The PD 9245 will spend very little time at 40-45 amps. It will spend most its charging time at 30-35 amps, and even #10 wire is large enuff for that.
Rich

'01 31' Rexall Vision, Generac 5.5k, 1000 watt Honda, PD 9245 conv, 300 watts Solar, 150 watt inv, 2 Cos 6v batts, ammeters, led voltmeters all over the place, KD/sat, 2 Oly Cat heaters w/ ox, and towing a 2012 Liberty, Lowe bass boat, or a Kawi Mule.

marquette
Explorer
Explorer
Upgrading the converter seems to be the way to go. I agree #4 wire at minimum is a must. I have done more marine wiring than rv wiring and it is almost impossible to get to heavy a wire size to a remote trolling motor socket or power board. Distance equals resistance so my theory is go big or get a paddle.
I didn't see a PD 9255 listed. I see the 9245C and the 9260 on PD's website.
Any idea in the real world how long it will take for a 9245C to recharge 2 GC batteries discharged to about 50%. I know the math on paper in the hypothetical world but real world experience would be more useful.

RJsfishin
Explorer
Explorer
If the converter is original, its lucky to have more than a 3 amp output for charging. The old converters were not much more than a power supply, designed strictly for supplying power to the 12v items while hooked up to shore power. They were not a battery charger,...except for a few amps to maintain the battery.
The new converters are a power supply/battery charger. They are kinda smart, but they don't know or care if their amps are going into a discharged battery, or directly into the 12v distribution load. The amps will go where the lowest voltage is, either the battery, or the 12v system, maybe both.
If you are going to camp off grid, you need a genset, and a good 3-4 stage converter charger. Solar is great, but unless you have lots of it, and lot of battery, you can't depend on it all the time.
Rich

'01 31' Rexall Vision, Generac 5.5k, 1000 watt Honda, PD 9245 conv, 300 watts Solar, 150 watt inv, 2 Cos 6v batts, ammeters, led voltmeters all over the place, KD/sat, 2 Oly Cat heaters w/ ox, and towing a 2012 Liberty, Lowe bass boat, or a Kawi Mule.

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
Replace the converter. 9245 is great. If you plan to upgrade the battery connection wire go #4 and 9255.

Just one solar panel at 100 to 140 watts will make a big difference.

Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Explorer III
The PD9245C converter provides 45A output and has a 3 stage charger (14.4V Boost---13.6V Absorption----13.2V Float)

GO with the PD9245C
Is it time for your medication or mine?


2007 DODGE 3500 QC SRW 5.9L CTD In-Bed 'quiet gen'
2007 HitchHiker II 32.5 UKTG 2000W Xantex Inverter
US NAVY------USS Decatur DDG31

azrving
Explorer
Explorer
If the converter you have now won't go to 14.4 volts it may be good to upgrade as its only $125 or so. I'd always run solar. For quick charge times also check for voltage drop between your converter and batteries. I'm using a PD4655

marquette
Explorer
Explorer
Already converted to LED lighting. It's a 13 ft camper so rooftop solar is a bit limited by space.

pianotuna
Nomad II
Nomad II
Hi,

A third alternative is to keep the existing charger and invest in enough solar to keep the fridge happy.

Of course, change to led lighting for the interior of the RV.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.