No trailer brakes

[DickandVicki]

DW and I are spending the summer in Olathe, CO - can't stand the humidity in FL! When I was preparing to unhook here, I wanted to move my Curt slider hitch to the rear or maneuver position, so I positioned to slide lever on the hitch, got in the truck, squeezed the brake controller levers (as I've done many times before), put the truck in gear and moved forward - only problem was, so did the trailer! Ended up putting wheel chocks fore and aft to block 5th wheel from moving. So...realized I had come down the 11K foot drop from Monarch Pass (Rt. 50) w/out trailer brakes on the way here - thank the good Lord for His protection! So yesterday, I began to investigate my dilemma. I sanded the contacts in both the plug and truck receptacle (which both looked good to begin with) then plugged the trailer to the truck. Started the truck and had DW try both the controller levers and brake pedal while I had my hands on the trailer brake drums, but felt nothing. Today I got my multimeter out, turned the truck on, and had wife turn try signals, running lights, etc. on and all was well. So I had her squeeze the controller levers and got voltage, but when she released them and applied the brake pedal, no voltage. There is a 30 amp fuse for the trailer brakes in my engine compartment which I pulled and checked, and it was good. Any ideas out there? Am I right in thinking if all is well, I should feel SOMETHING on the brake drums when brakes are applied?

[DickandVicki]

BREAKING NEWS! Today I stripped off 1/4" of insulation from each brake wire at the brakes then had DW do the lever squeeze then brake pedal (about a 8 second or so lag) and had voltage at each. Taped the wires up, then jacked up each wheel in turn, and had wife repeat process as I spun the tires, and I've got brakes! I think I probably had a compromised connection at the plug/receptacle, and probably fixed it when I sanded them. I was trying to "feel" the magnets energize with my hands instead of doing it with the meter. Lesson learned. Thanks for all the comments!

[enblethen]

We have not been told what controller the OP has.
Guessing is no way of giving good information.

[dougrainer]

Johnny G1 wrote:
Not all controller's work that way, mine will work standing still or moving, check the brakes with the controller only before I pull away.

I had to research this because I am NOT an expert on Brake Controls. This is what Tekonsha states on their P2 controller and it makes sense to NOT have the Trailer brakes activated when STOPPED at a light or Train crossing or any time you are stopped. I would assume most Controllers act this way. Doug

"The P2 also cuts power to the trailer's brakes when your vehicle is stopped - extending the life of the magnets and brake shoes in the trailer's brake assemblies".

[DickandVicki]

Just a quick update: I took my truck to a local RV dealer and had them check out the truck receptacle, which tested out OK. Moving on to the trailer in the next day or two. Thanks for all of your comments!

[Sjm9911]

Some of the controllers also flash a code if they sense something is wrong. I had a low voltage issue that came and went while towing but not standing still. I chased it , grounds, conections , etc, then I had to rewire the camper breaks. Was easier at that point. I would suggest you try your TV with another trailor if you can. If the controller works on that one you can narrow down the reason to your camper and not the TV or break controller itself.

[enblethen]

When you did the test with wife, was any of the lights in the on position?
The lights could be allowing the brake signal to be back-feeding to get ground.
Make and model of brake controller would be beneficial!

[Johnny_G1]

Not all controller's work that way, mine will work standing still or moving, check the brakes with the controller only before I pull away.

[dougrainer]

Now, I rarely work on Brake controllers. WE have a tech that specializes in them. BUT, from my understanding of how they operate, just pushing the Brake Pedal will NOT activate the voltage. The Brake Controllers have a weighted or electronic INERTIA control inside the controller. So, when you apply the brake pedal and the Truck/RV starts to slow down and there is that INERTIA, THEN the required DC voltage is sent from the truck to the RV brakes. Just sitting still and pushing the brake pedal may not activate the DC signal. That is why they have the LEVERS or SLIDE button on the Brake control. That is how you activate when not moving. They will also activate when moving, without hitting the Brake Pedal. Doug

[dougrainer]

enblethen wrote:
OP tried using the slide lever with no effect. That relies on nothing from the brake light switch.

His post. So I had her squeeze the controller levers and got voltage, but when she released them and applied the brake pedal, no voltage.
Doug

[enblethen]

OP tried using the slide lever with no effect. That relies on nothing from the brake light switch.

[dougrainer]

Brake controllers are simple. Ground/HOT 12 volt/FEED to trailer plug/BRAKE PEDAL brake light wire. So, you probably have NO power to the controller when pushing the Brake Pedal. The RED wire goes to the cold side of the Brake Pedal light switch. So, check for 12 volts on the RED wire when you push the brake pedal. Doug

[Lynnmor]

Some integrated controllers do little or nothing below 11 MPH, see your owners manual.

Check your ohm reading on the trailer between the brake pin and the ground pin, should be about 1 ohm. Test

[Thermoguy]

What truck do you have? Is it newer with a built in brake controller?

[John_Wayne]

If you can't feel anything take a compass and put it next to the wheel you want to test when the magnets on the brakes get power from the brake pedal the compass needle will move.