Norcold ice maker failure, Kenmore M1...

[bigtiki]

My ice maker in my side by side Norcold stopped working recently. When I reach inside the cube containers have no water in them. I have checked the water cutoff selenoid and it is good when I apply 110 volts to the terminals. Then went to the Norcold website and got servicing information. When I remove the white cap cover on the unit to run diagnostics with a voltmeter, it is different than what is shown by Norcold. All i see are the gears for the bin. There are no test holes for the leads.It is identical however to the household Kenmore model M-1.
Time to pull and toss?

[bigtiki]

Aha! Somebody usually on here is an expert! I'm sure corrosion is the culprit. Dixie cup modules..I can handle. I'll put some anti seize for the next bloke that has to pull it!

[Bob_Landry]

The main cause of failure for these things is turning them off and not leaving the door open. The mechanical workings will corrode in a pretty short period of time.
There are two main types, Uline and Raritan. The Raritan has the two holes that you jumper with a piece of wire to "trick it" into a harvest cycle. To start a harvest cycle on the Uine, the large plastic gear must be removed and the bin fingers moved a little past 12 o'clock until you hear a switch actuate. Then the gear has to be put back in place in order for it to complete the harvest cycle. The faceplate on these are a little tedious to replace, the Raritan simply snaps in place and is held by screws. All of the components on the Uline face plate are available, but the whole thing currently retails for around $60, and troubleshooting a switch and replacing it isn't worth the trouble. Both of these use old technology, 110VAC and switches, there are no electronic components in them.
The harvest cycles are controlled and initiated by a thermostat, which can be very temperamental.
I used to service them, and I tolerated them as a loss leader since I was on the boat doing an air conditioner job anyway until I realized I didn't need to lose money on them since I was going to get the AC job anyway. Ulines tech support people are the worst I've ever dealt with. When they got bombed with calls, they pulled a girl off the parts counter and handed her a manual. I don't know if they were understaffed, or they just didn't are, but I determined that three days for a call-back just wasn't acceptable. I detached myself from their service directory and have not once regretted it

[bigtiki]

Thanks. Nothing but ugly so far. I got it out, and the sheet metal screws holding it in were rusted n seized. Had to dremel the heads off!
Its out, got one ordered. Thanks Everybody!,,,

[Executive45]

@OP, the only difference is how the water cup is designed. If yours feeds from the side then you won't have a problem. The new cups are already punched to feed that way. They're hard to seal if it's a back feeder. It's really an easy change out..just be prepared for a really ugly looking ice cube tray. I couldn't believe we were actually eating ice out of ours...guess what you don't know won't hurt you...:W.....Dennis

P.S. In the kit are several pieces of clear plastic tubing. These are there in case your feeder line is not quite long enough to extend into the water cup. They simply slide over the line to extend the feeder tube into the water cup..D

[wa8yxm]

Possible issues in order or likelyhood.

ICED water shoot, The tube from the solenoid into the freezer compartment can, over time, Ice over, blocking water flow: Solution: DEFROST and leave it off for like 3 or 5 hours till tube is clear (Blow through it to test, from outside)

SPLIT tubing,, Same tube, it splits outside and sprays water all over the place, To diagnose, Remove outside cover and watch while it cycles.. You will know if it's leaking, or look for evidence of the leak.

Bad solenoid (Check for 120 volts AC on the coil or hold the FLAT side of a table knife near it as it cycles.. When power is applied it should pull in the knife.

Bad valve,, Harder to diagnose, Remove outlet tube and observe flow, or lack of flow as it cycles.

Bad switch on Ice Maker.. Symptom is no power to solenoid,, might be adjustment.

Of course you already checked for water TO the solenoid, but double check that too.

Ice Maker is a common U-Line, same as used in kennmore appliances and many others.. If you happen to be near Upsate SC, I have a spare in my basement I can sacrafice. I'll never use it,, Pulled it out and decided I like it better WITHOUT the ice maker.

[bigtiki]

Dennis, mine mounts on the side. You didn't say which was better if that was the case. Was there a difference in quality as well?

[Executive45]

A couple of words of wisdom from someone who just replaced his....

There are two different models available for the Norcold. Best price is Lowes and they have them is stock. One is $69 the other $99. Ours used the $99 one..they are different is subtle ways.

The water cup is different in the Norcold than the home version. The home version is designed to mount on the side of the freezer while the Norcold is mounted across the back. This means the water feed comes in from the back instead of the side. It's pretty easy to remove the existing cup and put it on the new unit. The wiring is the same. The new ones I looked at already had the cutout for the side feed instead of the rear....Dennis

[bigtiki]

Yes it is definitely 120 volts. I'm relieved that I can replace it from inside...So the feeder tube just is inserted into the upper tray?
Thanks to all you gents!

[past-MIdirector]

You pull the ice maker from inside the freezer. You have 2 to 4 1/4 screws and a electric plug. Make sure when you install the new ice maker the water inlet hose goes in the upper end of the tray, the same way as the old one came out. The solenoid should be the compatible or will have a new one which should be used.

[dougrainer]

wolfe10 wrote:
Please confirm-- your ice maker solenoid in your Norcold refrigerator is 120 VAC, not 12 VDC???

ALL Icemakers and their components are 120 volt in both Dometic and Norcold refers. Doug

[bigtiki]

wolfe10 wrote:
Please confirm-- your ice maker solenoid in your Norcold refrigerator is 120 VAC, not 12 VDC???

its 120 volt

[bigtiki]

wolfe10 wrote:
Please confirm-- your ice maker solenoid in your Norcold refrigerator is 120 VAC, not 12 VDC???

Yes, and I disconnected the line and it functions.
I also moved the extractor fingers for the ice cubes and the unit cycled ....once. now it doesnt.
:h

[bigtiki]

sh410 wrote:
Check on Amazon for a replacement. I got a replacement for under $50. Sears wanted over $160.

Does one need access to the rear of the fridge to change it out for the water connection? Because I can't remove the fridge.

Thanks!

[wolfe10]

Please confirm-- your ice maker solenoid in your Norcold refrigerator is 120 VAC, not 12 VDC???