โJul-19-2017 08:00 PM
โJul-20-2017 06:16 PM
โJul-20-2017 05:54 PM
โJul-20-2017 04:33 PM
โJul-20-2017 03:28 PM
โJul-20-2017 02:53 PM
โJul-20-2017 09:38 AM
Ivylog wrote:
"residential compressor fridges are power hungry so all is well if you camp in a campground with adequate power available" No they are not...my energy star (21 cuft) draws less than 100 watts when running less than half the time. That's 8 amps DC measured before the inverter. My rig does not bounce down the road and their are now thousands of home refers in RVs without any problems.
Most trailers and TCs have a 12V charging line from the vehicle and I doubt the 150+ amp alternator will even notice 8 amps. Yes if you boondock often two additional batteries will solve your energy issues.
โJul-20-2017 09:20 AM
2004.5 Ram SLT LB 3500 DRW Quad Cab 4x4
1988 Bigfoot (C11.5) TC (1900# w/standard equip. per decal), 130 watts solar, 100 AH AGM, Polar Cub A/C, EU2000i Honda
Toad: 91 Zuke
โJul-20-2017 08:27 AM
โJul-20-2017 06:58 AM
Boxer Lovers wrote:
I replaced mine with a Samsung 18.5 c.f. residential unit for less than a new Norcold coil costs. Much better now.
โJul-20-2017 06:03 AM
โJul-20-2017 05:36 AM
Old-Biscuit wrote:
Fins in food compartment....are they even getting cool?
How long have you been running fridge?
Is it LEVEL????
Freezer has to get down below 10*F before food compartment will start cooling down
Obstructed/blocked cooling unit between 'low temp evap' (freezer) and 'high temp evap' (food compartment).....cooling unit bad
โJul-20-2017 03:53 AM
โJul-19-2017 08:28 PM