Norcold issue - Freezer Good, Frig Bad

[Super_Dave]

The freezer is freezing thawed food solid but even on 9 the frig is closer to room temperature. Any help would be appreciated. (no food in frig)

[Kayteg1]

Over the years several members who did not like commercial agendas did open their own forums. They were/are no fees to join. Bad part is that even you could find very honest replies on them, without spending big money on advertisement, the traffic is very small.
That was pretty common movement on rv.net and Ford truck forums.
Not too many members stick around for 15 or more years.
The times where we had very exciting RV.net get togethers are gone as well.
Now thinking how some members would drive their rigs 400 miles only to spend 2 nights with fellow forum members, it does sound out of this World.
My family still has rv.net T-shirts. I use them for car repairs.

[SidecarFlip]

Kayteg1 wrote:

marcsbigfoot20b27 wrote:


I have wondered why the Tech Issues section only has 2 Stickies on top.

You would think there would be a couple of basic stickies like fridge operation, 12 volt and power, Air Conditiong performance, and other commonly asked and re-asked questions.

This forum does not want topics with resolutions to continue.
Each topic that does not have new reply for few days gets closed and members are forced to start a new one.
Bare in mind it is commercial forum and they want you to stick around here, not find a solution and leave.

Aren't all forums that are free...comercially motivated? Only ones I know of that aren't are the ones you pay to post.... I belong to a couple

[Kayteg1]

marcsbigfoot20b27 wrote:


I have wondered why the Tech Issues section only has 2 Stickies on top.

You would think there would be a couple of basic stickies like fridge operation, 12 volt and power, Air Conditiong performance, and other commonly asked and re-asked questions.

This forum does not want topics with resolutions to continue.
Each topic that does not have new reply for few days gets closed and members are forced to start a new one.
Bare in mind it is commercial forum and they want you to stick around here, not find a solution and leave.

[marcsbigfoot20b]

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:


Question

Are there No online troubleshooting guides to help a person in need? This would certainly help reduce the number of redundant posts.

I have wondered why the Tech Issues section only has 2 Stickies on top.

You would think there would be a couple of basic stickies like fridge operation, 12 volt and power, Air Conditiong performance, and other commonly asked and re-asked questions.

[MEXICOWANDERER]

Question

Are there No online troubleshooting guides to help a person in need? This would certainly help reduce the number of redundant posts.

[uncle_t]

allbrandauto wrote:
residential refridge is not power hungry my norcold drew 4 amps of ac power my residential draws 1 amp of ac power yes I added a inverter and 2 more batterys but could go 2 full days on battery power alone best upgrade I have down anybody that tells you residential is not the way to go is just afraid to do it

x 10 norcold which i referred to as no cold drew 3 times the current than the res samsung. the norcold temps were in direct relation to the outside temps. the samsung is at 38 and zero when its 35 outside or 112 outside. don't boondock but can run reefer on inverter for 6 or 7 hours on the road with negligible battery drain. Thanks f or the recall 900 bucks it will reimburse me for the samsung.:C

[3_tons]

wnjj wrote:

3 tons wrote:
Are we talking about one single solitary line that drains water, but allows ambient air to migrate towards refer, please clarify 'stopped up'..... now I'm exhausted - lol!!

Think P-trap on plumbing. No air can enter but water can exit. An upward loop in the drain tube or one-way (out only) check valve works.

Ok got it now, thanks to ALL for the added clarity!!

[wnjj]

3 tons wrote:
Are we talking about one single solitary line that drains water, but allows ambient air to migrate towards refer, please clarify 'stopped up'..... now I'm exhausted - lol!!

Think P-trap on plumbing. No air can enter but water can exit. An upward loop in the drain tube or one-way (out only) check valve works.

[SidecarFlip]

Any fridge, compressor included will do a poor job of refrigeration if, the unit cannot get rid of the hear. Refrigeration is merely moving heat to another medium and cold replaces it.

[SidecarFlip]

As Mrt. Biscuit states.. and why I asked you when you were camping, was the afternoon sun on the fridge side of the camper?

If you radiant heat the siding on the camper (with the afternoon sun) there is nothing between the siding and the inside fridge cavity to dissipate the heat but the airflow through the backside of the fridge, providing as Mr. Biscuit said, properly installed fans and baffles. Always, of possible, park with the fridge side away from the afternoon sun.

[Old-Biscuit]

3 tons wrote:
Well, for reference only, I started the refer about 30 hrs ago in the RV garage (84deg F) and checked the temps while at temp setting 9 (6 cu/ft Norcold) :

Refer was at 27 deg F, freezer was at -05 deg F

For the refer this was about a 57deg drop from ambient!!.... Camper was stationary but I assume all is working ok.

So it kinda makes me wonder why I had such difficulties during our last outing when ambient was at around 105deg F....

Because the HOTTER the ambient air temp is the LESS heat it can absorb
The less heat absorbed the less cooling can occur.

Ammonia Vapor has to be 'condensed' back into cold liquid ...that is what the condenser (finned section at top of fridge) does.
Airflow across condenser absorbs the heat from the ammonia vapor--condensing it into cold liquid.

Hot ambient air doesn't remove as much heat...therefore less ammonia is condensed....less liquid ammonia then less cooling effect when the liquid ammonia 'FLASHES' back into a vapor when it mixes with the hydrogen gas

When ambient air temps rise....more airflow needed



Course that is 'assuming' RV MFG. properly installed the fridge as per Fridge MFGs. requirements.....clearances/baffles/fans etc.

[3_tons]

Well, for reference only, I started the refer about 30 hrs ago in the RV garage (84deg F) and checked the temps while at temp setting 9 (6 cu/ft Norcold) :

Refer was at 27 deg F, freezer was at -05 deg F

For the refer this was about a 57deg drop from ambient!!.... Camper was stationary but I assume all is working ok.

So it kinda makes me wonder why I had such difficulties during our last outing when ambient was at around 105deg F....

[3_tons]

3 tons wrote:

dougrainer wrote:

3 tons wrote:
jplante4 wrote:

Check that the drain from the drip pan is stopped up. This allows warm air to run into the fridge part.

' Stopped up'..... what does this mean??

1. IF stopped up NO air can go up and water cannot drain off
2. Norcolds have a CHECK valve on the end of the drain tube, so air cannot migrate back up. Also, Air migration will only happen in transit if the drain tube is open to the air. Doug

'Stopped up' ............ does this mean line is plugged and water cannot drain, or stopped up means this is normal so that warm ambient air should not be allowed to enter??

'Stopped up' means ambient air should not be allowed to travel upwards, OR ambient air should travel upwards??

Water should be allowed to drain, but ambient air not allowed to travel up line??

Though scoring 100% on the ASVAB mechanical, This is getting beyond my comprehension.....

Are we talking about one single solitary line that drains water, but allows ambient air to migrate towards refer, please clarify 'stopped up'..... now I'm exhausted - lol!!

Sorry, Double post .....

[3_tons]

dougrainer wrote:

3 tons wrote:
jplante4 wrote:

Check that the drain from the drip pan is stopped up. This allows warm air to run into the fridge part.

' Stopped up'..... what does this mean??

1. IF stopped up NO air can go up and water cannot drain off
2. Norcolds have a CHECK valve on the end of the drain tube, so air cannot migrate back up. Also, Air migration will only happen in transit if the drain tube is open to the air. Doug

'Stopped up' ............ does this mean line is plugged and water cannot drain, or stopped up means this is normal so that warm ambient air should not be allowed to enter??

'Stopped up' means ambient air should not be allowed to travel upwards, OR ambient air should travel upwards??

Water should be allowed to drain, but ambient air not allowed to travel up line??

Though scoring 100% on the ASVAB mechsnical, This is getting beyond my comprehension.....

Are we talking about one single solitary line that drains water, but allows ambient air to migrate towards refer, please clarify 'stopped up'..... now I'm exhausted - lol!!