Old Norcold Fridge - Died Suddenly

[KendallP]

2-way fridge. Lights on the eyebrow don't light and there's no ignitor activity nor can I hear valves for LP and 120V also does not cool. There's proper DC voltage on either side of the 3A fuse. Hard to imagine the eyebrow rocker switch went out suddenly for both AC and DC and since I don't have a circuit board tester in my toolbox, I'm guessing I may be out of easy diagnostic options and my next move may be to see what a new board can do. Or am I wrong? (He waits for his cantankerous, adopted gramps, Mexicowanderer to gripe at him if he doesn't run every possible diagnostic at his disposal... and some that aren't.)

This is the one book I don't have in my packet from the original owners and I can't read the model number on the placard. It's an '86 Winnebago, so my research seems to point to an 8310 EG2 or 838 EG2 ("2" for 2 way, i.e. LP and 120V.) I don't know what the differences between these 2 are, but either model uses the same Dinosaur board. Below are some photos if anyone has knowledge enough to agree or disagree with this assessment.

If correct, it appears that the recall was performed as the board does not appear to be the original. These folks performed maintenance well before recommended intervals, so it would be reasonable to believe that they had the recall addressed as well. There are also little plastic buttons on the far outsides of the eybrow which is supposed to be another indication. AND... I don't see that there is AC power inside the eyebrow, which was supposed to be the fire hazard that caused the recall. Hope I'm right.

First photo is a shot of an original board from Dinosaur's page and below that... my current board. Then the rest of the unit in case any of you can recognize it that way...









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[dougrainer]

look at the manual there is also an ON OFF switch on the side of the rear circuit board. This manual shows to 2 position hi humidity switch. after this model they had the 3 position switch. Doug

http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/8682.pdf

[KendallP]

dougrainer wrote:
It has been year since I did that recall. The reason for the recall, was, Norcold ran 120 volts thru the back board up to the Eyebrow and they had problems with that. You installed a new eyebrow and control board that was all 12 volts. Maybe Chris will remember if your pics show the recall kit. Between the freezer Door and the refer door there should be a Hi Humidity switch. It is a 3 position switch. IF that switch malfunctions the refer will be dead. Usually that switch rusts out from age. It has OFF, HI ON and HI OFF. The switch must be in either the UP or Down position. IF corroded out and no current flows the refer will not power up. Doug

Wow! So it will completely shut 'er down, eh?

Yeah. I do have that switch. I'll take a look at that too. Thanks!

[dougrainer]

It has been year since I did that recall. The reason for the recall, was, Norcold ran 120 volts thru the back board up to the Eyebrow and they had problems with that. You installed a new eyebrow and control board that was all 12 volts. Maybe Chris will remember if your pics show the recall kit. Between the freezer Door and the refer door there should be a Hi Humidity switch. It is a 3 position switch. IF that switch malfunctions the refer will be dead. Usually that switch rusts out from age. It has OFF, HI ON and HI OFF. The switch must be in either the UP or Down position. IF corroded out and no current flows the refer will not power up. Doug

[KendallP]

doxiemom11 wrote:
Try removing the eyebrown controls and clean all connections on that too. That did the trick for us once. Controls were not working so frig wouldn't run.

Man, mine is just a switch with real clean looking connectors all around, but... will do. Can't hurt. Thanks!

[doxiemom11]

Try removing the eyebrown controls and clean all connections on that too. That did the trick for us once. Controls were not working so frig wouldn't run.

[KendallP]

rjxj wrote:
You could see voltage but not have amperage because of a dirty/corroded terminal...

True. Shouldn't take much current to run the indicator lights on the eyebrow, though. But it's an easy enough check.

Picking 'er up from Cummins/Onan tomorrow afternoon. I'll do it when I get 'er back to the yard.

[azrving]

You could see voltage but not have amperage because of a dirty/corroded terminal. I would power it down and remove and reinstall all the connectors to establish a new "bite". When you have the terminal off of each connection do a little tug test to be sure the crimp is good to the wire. Start at the panel for the main fuse

[midnightsadie]

might try a google search for your model.