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Older fridge cooling Better on 110 than propane

Buffblazer
Explorer
Explorer
Hello all, hoping for some help before my 4th of July trip

I took my 98 Lightcraft truck camper up the mountain this last Friday and when I left the house with the fridge on 110 the temp was 28 degrees.

Switched over to propane and drove an hour to my spot to find the fridge at 55 degrees. Could not get it to cool down.

Yesterday I ran it on 110 to verify it wasnโ€™t the cooling unit. I had a tall blue flame but went ahead and cleaned the burner unit and blew out the area. Still the same height flame.

I adjusted my settings from hi-med-low and see very minimal flame height change and have never heard the propane โ€œroarโ€ that people talk about in the 2 years I have owned it. I did replace my regulator last year and have no issues with my stove or heater working.

Any suggestions? Not sure of the brand of fridge. Itโ€™s the old school 3 way with the turn knob in the back and the green 110 switch and red 12v

Thank you
55 REPLIES 55

Buffblazer
Explorer
Explorer
Ok that makes sense. It was loose so I was wondering if itโ€™s depth in and out of the burner mattered.

So I cleaned everything again, turned on the gas without anything attached to push any debris out of the line and reached up in the chimney and cleaned what I could.

Turned it on with the fans at 7:00 at a fridge temp of 80 and at 9:00 it was 55 ( I know I shouldnโ€™t have opened it but I was curious) I shut off the fans and this morning it was at 25 degree. So that made me super happy. I kicked on the fans and will check it again tonight after a 85 degree day.

JRscooby
Explorer II
Explorer II
Buffblazer wrote:


Also on the burner. I have the main gas line coming in, then the little slot for the electronic ignition, and then on the other side is what looks like a brown probe. It runs from the burner back to the gas valve next to the switches. It doesnโ€™t look like a gas line but does connect to where all the lines are.

Anyone have any idea what Iโ€™m talking about? Not the best with describing it.


What you are describing is the thermo-coupler. Heat from the flame generates a small amount of electricity. If the gas valve does not see that electricity it closes, shutting off the gas. When lighting, you need to hold a button? That is to by-pass the safety device while the thermo-coupler heats up. If your flame stays lit, that is not a issue.

Buffblazer
Explorer
Explorer
I replaced the regulator last year when I purchased the camper, for being as cheap as they are I can do it again just to be safe.

When I left this morning the fridge was at 55, I left the fans running and when I got home it was 80 in the fridge. Flame was still there and fans running with outside temp around 85.

So I took everything apart again and cleaned it. Ran gas through the open line to make sure that it wasnโ€™t plugged and reached up in the flue and cleaned what I can. Letting it cool down now.

I found the model number and was look at what is says to do to service. Looks like I have to take the fridge out to clean the chimney? Anyone else cleaned that out before?

Also on the burner. I have the main gas line coming in, then the little slot for the electronic ignition, and then on the other side is what looks like a brown probe. It runs from the burner back to the gas valve next to the switches. It doesnโ€™t look like a gas line but does connect to where all the lines are.

Anyone have any idea what Iโ€™m talking about? Not the best with describing it.

maillemaker
Explorer
Explorer
The flame in the refer burner is tiny. Mine does not roar. The water heater roars.

Steve
1990 Winnebago Warrior. "She may not look like much but she's got it where it counts!"

I would check the burner for debris.

Light scale can fall down the flue and settle into the burner, blocking the flame somewhat, thus reducing its efficiency.

I've had that happen a number of times.
Pull the little wind guard flap off, get in there initially with a small vacuum with a tiny nozzle attachment to get the visible stuff, then compressed air to blow it all clear.

Careful not to blow stuff back into the propane outlet line.
2007 GMC 3500 dually ext. cab 4X4 LBZ Dmax/Allison - 2007 Pacific Coachworks Tango 306RLSS
RV Rebuild Website - Site launched Aug 22, 2021 - www.rv-rebuild.com

dougrainer
Nomad
Nomad
If it works on 120 but NOT on LP and you have cleaned the burner, the ONLY thing left to do is to verify the LP(11.5 inches) pressure at the refer. Doing anything else will just be a waste of your time. DON'T use the Stove or Furnace as a indicator of LP pressure. Doug

Buffblazer
Explorer
Explorer
time2roll wrote:
Is this a stationary issue or an in transit issue?

While in transit the flame may have blown out.


I do have issues with my flame blowing out and I thought that was my culprit, but after sitting over night at my camp location and outside temp dropping to around 45 degrees it still wasnโ€™t cooling.

Buffblazer
Explorer
Explorer
I have 4 muffin fans that I run to keep the unit cool, 1 for cool air inlet, 1 thatโ€™s mounted to suck the fresh from the bottom to the top, and then 2 exhaust mounted fans. I seem to not have a temperature difference with the fans on or off.

After I got to my location I left the fans running for an additional 3 hours. Outside air temp was 75 degrees. After 3 hours I checked the fridge again and still was at that 55 degrees, so I figured I would let it sit over night and check in the morning. Still 55 and it stayed that way.

As for the altitude, last year I had my camper up to 10,500 feet at my hunting area and it never had a problem staying cool. This trip was at about 7,500 feet. I know altitude can mess with them but even at my house at 5,000 feet it still wonโ€™t cool below 55 on propane.

I was reading about the โ€œroarโ€ but maybe Iโ€™m wrong that you are suppose to hear that, definitely donโ€™t want to blow up my camper and truck lol

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
Is this a stationary issue or an in transit issue?

While in transit the flame may have blown out.

JRscooby
Explorer II
Explorer II
Even the residential absorption fridge we had when I was a kid the flame was not much bigger than the pilot light on a water heater. If you have a "roar" from the fridge, get out, and shut off gas.
You said the temp went up while driving? Any chance more hot air blasting by the box raising the temp? Might see if it holds temp while parked.
BTW, every time you open the door all the cold air falls out on your feet. The closer to full the better. When I was hosting in 100+ temps I would keep the fridge full of containers. When I remove a container of food, replaced with MT. (had a thermometer with sensor inside, outside readout. reduced the height and length of spikes)

Bumpyroad
Explorer
Explorer
running at altitude on gas???????????????
bumpy