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PD 9180 needs 20 amp cord?

JamesJudasPries
Explorer
Explorer
Hey all,

With all this converter talk recently, I noticed that the prog. dyn. PD9180/9280 converter comes with a 20 amp cord and plug. Can't tell if the cord wire is 12awg but probably. Fine.

So the specs say 1300 watts. Max Continuous operation on a 15amp, 14awg household circuit is typically 1440 Watts. So... I guess these supplies have a nasty power factor, with no correction? Too bad the nameplate doesn't state VAs so we actually knew how much current it can draw. Website only states efficiency as .8 but that doesn't help with total AC power.

Anyone know what the max is? Interesting how they state cutting the cord end will void the warranty, since its their only converter with a 20A plug.
38 REPLIES 38

MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Explorer
"Umph! Pull tabs on seven cans of Bud Lite. Grab pliers 'cause pipe wrench or hammer no work. Get rid of damned prong on bottom (yank and twist) cause only way fit plug, is upside down. But what is this sideways prong? Ugh Ugh, twist. Now plug can be hammered into place upside down. See? It fits!"

The appliance of course, has a steel body...


This is genetic. Trust me on this. Mass sterilization is the only way to cope with it. Wanna argue the point...browse a "TV Guide".

joebedford
Nomad II
Nomad II
mike-s wrote:
Naio wrote:
Wow. People are crazy.
No. It's not a person's choice to be crazy. They can learn to not be stupid.
No, stupid stays stupid. Uninformed can become informed and
uneducated can become educated, but not if they're stupid.

mike-s
Explorer
Explorer
Naio wrote:
Wow. People are crazy.
No. It's not a person's choice to be crazy. They can learn to not be stupid.

Naio
Explorer
Explorer
KJINTF wrote:
Want a good scare?

You would be surprised as to how many "twisted" 20 amp plugs I see on customers converters. Twisted as in a pair of pliers bending the right angle neutral prong enabling it to fit in a standard 15amp cheap POS RV socket. Please do not do this!!!

Nothing more than big unwanted problem waiting to happen ......just a matter of time


Wow. People are crazy.
3/4 timing in a DIY van conversion. Backroads, mountains, boondocking, sometimes big cities for a change of pace.

KJINTF
Explorer
Explorer
Want a good scare?

You would be surprised as to how many "twisted" 20 amp plugs I see on customers converters. Twisted as in a pair of pliers bending the right angle neutral prong enabling it to fit in a standard 15amp cheap POS RV socket. Please do not do this!!!

Nothing more than big unwanted problem waiting to happen ......just a matter of time

MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Explorer
I have to be careful with the BORG. Two 36-amp Megawatt power supplies.

On a 15-amp dedicated circuit if I plug in the charger with the switch set for both chargers operate, it will repeatedly trip the breaker and has tripped other 15-amp breakers.

The Pf may be .8 but four 680uf capacitors that are charging, get in the way of theoretical calculations.

That is why I put the chickenhead switch in the primary then backed it up with a spring-wound timer. Theoretical nonsense? Not when both chargers are plugged in online, and there is a momentary power outage.

Something else to chew on: A twenty amp plug "ensures" the use of a 20-amp receptacle which in turn ensures the use of a specification grade receptacle. The difference between even a 15-amp contractor's economy receptacle and a 15-amp spec grade receptacle is a laugh-a-minute until the fully-loaded contractor receptacle burns and ruins a good plug.

Only an amateur would believe "There is no difference between a contractor's receptacle and a specification grade receptacle of the same amperage" The change to a 20-amp plug is one of the more rational things I have seen done.

After burning toaster, broiler, coffeemaker, and microwave plugs on brand new (rented house) contractor's receptacles, they went into the trash four years ago and since then, no problems.

The max possible inrush into the BORG is something like 27 amperes.

Pf corrected chargers have fewer run issues, but what does a person do about those big capacitors? Yes there is a full wave bridge rectifier ahead of the 200 volt caps.

Charger control could be established with SCR control. But the SCRs I see are the size of a pin head. About the same square mm as the sum total of the area occupied by the hwang ho engineers brains who designed it.

KJITF, thanks for bringing some sense into this post ๐Ÿ™‚

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
I gather the converter makers have to decide whether to have theirs "UL Rated" in the States, which would mean following NEC rules such as smk mentioned.

That would mean 20a plugs on all the higher amp converters. Meanwhile customers would be annoyed having to adapt to 15a receptacles if that is what they have to plug it into. Sort of a "sales" issue, which way to go, depending on what "market" the converter is serving.

I my own case, a 20a plug is a PITA. The Honda has a single twist lock 30, worth 23a (2800 VA) and two 15s. It does not have 20/15 for the 15s. I have a 10AWG dog bone to go from the twist lock 30 to a RV 30 receptacle for the RV 30 plug. I have an adapter to change that 30 to 15. I use a longer 12AWG extension cord with a 15a plug which has three 15a receptacles from that to plug the 100a charger (and two other things if the Honda will do it all) into which has a 15a plug.

I recently got a charger that has a 20a plug and found I have no way to use it with the Honda or the RV (no 20/15 receptacles) I had to go and buy a 20/15 receptacle to add to a cut off length of 15a cord with plug to make another dog bone.

So now I can go: Honda 30 twist, RV 30 receptacle, 30/15 receptacle , new dog bone 15 plug/ 20/15 receptacle, 20a charger plug. What a PITA!
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.

KJINTF
Explorer
Explorer
I believe I have both of MR Wizards WFCO 68100 Converters here at the shop

One had a fried input side inductor L1 and has become a parts donor the other was OK with the exception of several very high ESR capacitors keeping it from going into boost mode both manually or automatically and now works just fine

Yes they do have input side power factor correction post bridge rectifier and mains capacitors nothing special and do indeed have a 20amp plug

IMO they are not any better or any worse than all the others

All of them can be modified to have variable output voltages from as low as 12.0 to as high as 16.0VDC or more

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
smkettner wrote:
If a PD80 fit in the WFCO slot I would be cutting the cord to attach to a 20a breaker.
Adding romex to a new Jbox with a NEMA 5-20 would be a PITN.
Maybe get a 5-20 pigtail to preserve the warranty.


Smk, you might ask Mr Wizard about the 68100 before saying that. ISTR he has had two and they ran well, but ISTR he suspected they failed from being in a poorly ventilated space?

Besides the PF, they have that boost button, which is a useful feature.

With the 9180, you could plug it into one of those 20/15 receptacles which I assume is on a 12 wire 20a circuit, but can take a 15a plug.
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.

Naio
Explorer
Explorer
smkettner wrote:
If a PD80 fit in the WFCO slot I would be cutting the cord to attach to a 20a breaker.
Adding romex to a new Jbox with a NEMA 5-20 would be a PITN.
Maybe get a 5-20 pigtail to preserve the warranty.


PD has consumer and OEM versions. I wonder if the OEM version comes with no cord?
3/4 timing in a DIY van conversion. Backroads, mountains, boondocking, sometimes big cities for a change of pace.

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
If a PD80 fit in the WFCO slot I would be cutting the cord to attach to a 20a breaker.
Adding romex to a new Jbox with a NEMA 5-20 would be a PITN.
Maybe get a 5-20 pigtail to preserve the warranty.

dougrainer
Nomad
Nomad
Most Power Converters larger than 60 amp come with a 20 amp plug. What this means is, they want that Power Converter on a dedicated 20 amp circuit, with the Romex wiring and RECEPTACLE to match 20 amp service. CUTTING the end voiding the warranty is because PD KNOWS, the only reason you would cut the end off is to use a 15 amp rated circuit. The Power Converter is built to utilize 20 amps of power, not 15 amps. The standard receptacle(15 amp) is not rated for the draw of the Power Converter. IMO, using a 15 amp rated plug will not cause any problems. Doug

Naio
Explorer
Explorer
BFL13 wrote:

Second post this thread, "My PD9180 came with a 15 amp configuration plug.

Richard"

Which is it? Or is this one of those times when Americans call 15s 20s for whatever reason they do that? ๐Ÿ™‚


My guess would be it was different in different time periods.

Their tech support people are very nice. Someone could call and ask :). Open til 4, east coast time.
3/4 timing in a DIY van conversion. Backroads, mountains, boondocking, sometimes big cities for a change of pace.

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
wa8yxm wrote:
Progressive Dynamics it seems went to the same school I did (Actualy they very likely DID go to the same school I did, at least some of them.. But that's literal not symbolic)....

I believe in OVERBUILDING.. So my 9180 eats off a 15 amp breaker, cause I needed the 20 for something else.. but it has a 20 amp plug.

I also have a 20-15 adapter I can feed it with, I can tell you how to make one but basically it's a 20 amp outlet on a 15 amp cord. Never had a problem with it,.


Second post this thread, "My PD9180 came with a 15 amp configuration plug.

Richard"

Which is it? Or is this one of those times when Americans call 15s 20s for whatever reason they do that? ๐Ÿ™‚
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.