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PEX pipe and fittings

hybrid_dw
Explorer
Explorer
Starcraft Antigua 2005, Water manifold made of PEX and those one-time crimp hose clamps leak. See pics below. the black plastic PEX "T" somehow cracked on a diagonal across the intersection and streams water. I go to Home Depot and match the same size PEX "T" with a PEX brass "T". I decide to use "real" hose clamps, you know the worm type adjustable screw so that I can re-use, relocate adjust, etc. Now all three locations where the PEX is clamped over the pipe onto the fitting leak. I have them cranked down beyond tight. WTH? I imagine I should replace the whole manifold due to age but what works best here? Any help?



51 REPLIES 51

4x4van
Explorer
Explorer
Charlie D. wrote:
1995brave wrote:
My friend picked up the Flare-it fittings from the local RV Parts store, they even gave him about 6 inches of tubing for free. The ones in the link are from PPLMotorhomes.


I would not use those on PEX. PEX is a harder material and I would not trust those.
My entire 2004 Itasca is plumbed with PEX and those exact fittings.
We don't stop playing because we grow old...We grow old because we stop playing!

2004 Itasca Sunrise M-30W
Carson enclosed ATV Trailer
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72cougarxr7
Explorer
Explorer
To the OP,
Those "god awful" pinch clamps have worked wonderfully for me in both RV and "stick and Brick" applications.
I have some that were installed in my house 13 years ago and are still dry and trouble free to this day.
I suspect your issue lies more with the plastic T's and elbows.
I always use brass!

For your water heater connection you masy be able to use something like this, just add an elbow.
Pex fitting

RJsfishin
Explorer
Explorer
Hard to believe they can take something so simple and make it so complicated.

I been using Flair-it ever since pex came out.
My last 2 MH's were all flair-it, and my new(in '06) MFG home is all flair-it, except the 3/4" mainline is crimp,.... never a problem
Rich

'01 31' Rexall Vision, Generac 5.5k, 1000 watt Honda, PD 9245 conv, 300 watts Solar, 150 watt inv, 2 Cos 6v batts, ammeters, led voltmeters all over the place, KD/sat, 2 Oly Cat heaters w/ ox, and towing a 2012 Liberty, Lowe bass boat, or a Kawi Mule.

T18skyguy
Explorer
Explorer
Here is a youtube video with over a million views on the 5 best methods for connecting pex to fittings. Made by a lifetime plumber.
Retired Anesthetist. LTP. Pilot with mechanic/inspection ratings. Between rigs right now.. Wife and daughter. Four cats which we must obey.

hybrid_dw
Explorer
Explorer
no prob, thats a big help so far mo!

mobeewan
Explorer
Explorer
My mistake, I messed up in editing. I meant .540 for 1/4 inch pipe and .840 for 1/2 inch pipe. This autospelling feature and auto correction on my phone keeps inserting and miss spelling things putting in what it thinks I meant instead of what I type and I messed up when trying to edit .

drsteve
Explorer
Explorer
hybrid dw wrote:
mobeewan wrote:
The threaded brass fitting on the tank has a male 3/8 inch pipe thread. The outer diameter of 3/8 inch pipe is .675. According to your picture the pipe threads are just under 3/4 of an inch, so the threads have to be 3/8 in pipe threads. Half inch pipe is .540 in diameter and three quarter inch pipe is .840 in diameter. So your elbow you're looking for would need to be 3/8 in female pipe thread swivel nut x shark bite.


I'm teachable mobeewan, really, but how can the OD of a 1/2 in pipe be only 4-100's more than the ID, but the OD of the 3/8 in pipe be nearly double its ID? Heres a shot of the ID:



Because mobeewan typoed. 1/2 inch OD is .840.

Full table here.
2006 Silverado 1500HD Crew Cab 2WD 6.0L 3.73 8600 GVWR
2018 Coachmen Catalina Legacy Edition 223RBS
1991 Palomino Filly PUP

GordonThree
Explorer
Explorer
I've had nothing but trouble with Shark Bite swivel fittings leaking, both the plastic "poly" type and the all brass.

That gasket or oring in the swivel joint doesn't seem to enjoy bouncing down the road.
2013 KZ Sportsmen Classic 200, 20 ft TT
2020 RAM 1500, 5.7 4x4, 8 speed

hybrid_dw
Explorer
Explorer
mobeewan wrote:
The threaded brass fitting on the tank has a male 3/8 inch pipe thread. The outer diameter of 3/8 inch pipe is .675. According to your picture the pipe threads are just under 3/4 of an inch, so the threads have to be 3/8 in pipe threads. Half inch pipe is .540 in diameter and three quarter inch pipe is .840 in diameter. So your elbow you're looking for would need to be 3/8 in female pipe thread swivel nut x shark bite.


I'm teachable mobeewan, really, but how can the OD of a 1/2 in pipe be only 4-100's more than the ID, but the OD of the 3/8 in pipe be nearly double its ID? Heres a shot of the ID:



Heres something like what you're saying but the reviews are horrible.
http://www.sharkbite.com/product/swivel-elbows/

mobeewan
Explorer
Explorer
The threaded brass fitting on the tank has a male 3/8 inch pipe thread. The outer diameter of 3/8 inch pipe is .675. According to your picture the pipe threads are just under 3/4 of an inch, so the threads have to be 3/8 in pipe threads. Half inch pipe is .540 in diameter and three quarter inch pipe is .840 in diameter. So your elbow you're looking for would need to be 3/8 in female pipe thread swivel nut x shark bite.

hybrid_dw
Explorer
Explorer
OP here...The Saga continues. So I see at HD that the Sharkbite (SB) brand has expanded. So heres the specific SB - push to connect - I know works and the packaging states use with PEX:



using those SB PTC above will eliminate having these god awful pinch clamps (which somehow are now branded as SB!):



So I managed to replace the "T" and 90 elbow to be leak free, thusly:



but if course, all that yanking and pulling and flexing the manifold to get that done cracked yet 2 more of the original black plastic fittings, which now leak. So I committed now to replace all the fittings in this assembly. I managed to find all the valves and other fittings in SB PTC EXCEPT the 2 "hose" connection 90 elbows to the WH tank:




I cannot find, even on the SB website, a 3/4 inch female thread to 1/2 inch SB PTC.

I see it in 1/4 inch on Amazon looks like these:





So if yall fine gents/ladies ever run into this and located such a fitting let me know. I imagine I could get this done through multiple adapters or the SB water heater hose connection for 1/2 inch but thats not preferable.

drsteve
Explorer
Explorer
The only failure I have ever experienced with PEX was due to those plastic tees and elbows. Always go with brass.
2006 Silverado 1500HD Crew Cab 2WD 6.0L 3.73 8600 GVWR
2018 Coachmen Catalina Legacy Edition 223RBS
1991 Palomino Filly PUP

myredracer
Explorer II
Explorer II
Gear clamps (hose clamps) should never ever be used on PEX.

Copper crimp rings work great and are very easy to use but the required crimper is expensive for doing just a handful of crimps.

Sharkbite fittings will work fine but can get expensive if you need more than a few.

I would suggest using cinch clamps like the factories typically do (as in photo). You can buy them as a package of clamps plus the tool at HD at a pretty decent price and you can have some spare clamps and the tool to keep on hand for future repairs or mods.

You might want to buy a stick of PEX and also a PEX cutter so you can make nice clean cuts. If you get cinch clamps, get some brass PEX fittings.

mobeewan
Explorer
Explorer
Charlie D. wrote:
1995brave wrote:
My friend picked up the Flare-it fittings from the local RV Parts store, they even gave him about 6 inches of tubing for free. The ones in the link are from PPLMotorhomes.


I would not use those on PEX. PEX is a harder material and I would not trust those.


Apparently you have no experience with Flair-it fittings. The Flair-it fittings were actually designed to be used only with PEX. The Flair-it fittings are a hard plastic. PEX is softer and is made from cross linked polyethylene.

My trailer was manufactured using PEX, with 95% of the fittings being Flair-it. I continued to use Flair-it fittings and more of the exact same brand PEX tubing when making mods to the plumbing.

The only Flair-it fitting i have ever had a problem with started to disolve. It was an adapter connected to a steel nipple threaded into the water heater inlet. There was some type of chemical reaction between the steel, rust and plastic that was causing the plastic to dissolve and the fitting started to drip. I replaced the Flair-it fitting with another Flair-it fitting and replaced the steel nipple with brass. After 10 years the only other leak was the toilet flush valve that went bad. The brass nipple and Flair-it are doing fine.

Flair-it fittings can get expensive but are extremely easy to use. You don't have to worry about crimping tools, bands, improper crimps that leak and enough room to use a crimping tool.

rjniles
Explorer
Explorer
RLS7201 wrote:
Charlie D. wrote:
1995brave wrote:
My friend picked up the Flare-it fittings from the local RV Parts store, they even gave him about 6 inches of tubing for free. The ones in the link are from PPLMotorhomes.


I would not use those on PEX. PEX is a harder material and I would not trust those.


Flare-it works great on PEX. Flare-it has been my choice for repair for years. No Problem

Richard


I usually use SS cinch clamps for PEX in my RV but have use Flair-It fittings in tight location or connections I want to be able to disconnect. Flair-It is approved for PEX
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