Prodigy P3 Overload Warning

[RK_Hauler]

I am getting an intermittent overload warning on my P3 controller that just started about 500 miles ago during our last trip. I would like to get it resolved to get us back and then R&R the whole system.

The warning only happens after I come to a complete stop, then disappears when I let off and/or pump the brake. It doesn't show up until I come to a complete stop again. No warning when in the process of stopping so haven't lost brakes when stopping.

I suspect it is a magnet or a bad wire inside the drum and would like to test to see which one it is without removing drums. Wondering if anyone has advice on a good/best way to do this sort of test?

Thanks in advance,

Greg

[MEXICOWANDERER]

Symptoms sure point to intermittant short. Pass wires through axle? Ho ho ho. Time to rip it out and do it right. Auto Electrical supply houses sell nylon squares that nylon cable ties fasten to. Buy 20. And a tube of Goop adhesive.

Glue 10 on the inside of each frame rail. Wait a day to cure. Run dual FOURTEEN GAUGE trailer brake duplex down each frame rail.

End of that problem forever.

[Bigbird65]

mike-s, you are correct. Thanks for correcting my mistake.

Ken

[time2roll]

Going to love the hydraulic 🙂

[mike-s]

Bigbird65 wrote:
Someone mentioned rewiring in a star pattern meaning that all brakes are in parallel (I think that is what you meant). This would not work well because all brakes need to be in series as they are wired from the factory.

Trailer brakes are always wired in parallel, never in series.

[Bigbird65]

Thanks for the reply RK. I assume that you never bought a new magnet and tried it out before ordering the disc brake kit. Seems like a simple fix after you verified that it is the one causing the problem. I'm not at all familiar with the disc brakes on a trailer. Electric? Where did you buy them? We will need a report after you get it working. Happy 4th of July.

Ken

[RK_Hauler]

BigBird - Your problem sounds exactly like mine. I started this thread hoping for help. I suspected and still believe my problem was a bad magnet and drum.

I figured it out by cutting the wires to one brake at a time then driving it. If the P3 still gave the overload warning when stopping I would use butt connectors to reconnect and try the next one.

I suspected which one it was based on the condition of the magnet surface of the drum when I did the brakes last summer. So got lucky and cut the right one the first time. No warnings since and I've pulled it more miles than I should say on three brakes....

My problem was really repeatable - it would do it every time I stopped unless it was a really slow light stop. What I believe is happening is the magnet surface in the drum is badly grooved. When stopping the magnet (which is also probably badly worn) is pulled into the groove, rocks a bit, and shorts itself in the groove. When you let off the brake it moves out of the groove and no more short. Not sure if that makes sense.

Regardless...just delivered today - a brand new disc brake kit I'm about to install. Pricey but looking forward to better stopping and easier to maintain brakes.

Good luck with yours.

[Bigbird65]

I am having a very similar problem with a Tekonsha/Prodigy P3. Let me back up just a bit. This past May we were on a 3,900 mile 23 day camping trip to the Outer Banks, SC, Florida, etc. About half way through the trip my P3 display died. However the P3 was still working, sort of. By sort of I mean the P3 had an intermittent Overload No Brakes shortly after I moved it from a 2014 RAM 1500 to my 2017 RAM 1500. Never had any trouble with the P3 in the 2014 RAM and same trailer. Of course I had to buy a new plug-n-play cable for the 2017 RAM. My Minnie Winnie trailer only weighs 4800# loaded and even when the overload occurs the RAM stops it but really needs the help from the P3. Tekonsha swapped out the P3 with the bad display for no charge. Great customer service. The new P3 does exactly the same thing. Because the problem is so intermittent I have never been able to tie it down to hard braking, soft braking, etc. Sometimes I come to a stop with the error on and the moment I release the brake and reapply it the error goes away.

Someone mentioned rewiring in a star pattern meaning that all brakes are in parallel (I think that is what you meant). This would not work well because all brakes need to be in series as they are wired from the factory. I really like the idea of rewiring the brakes on the outside of the axle housings. With terminals attached to the frame it would be really easy to diagnose which brake magnet might be causing the problem by bypassing the individual magnet.

I would really be interested to hear from anyone who has the intermittent problem and how you fixed it.

[westend]

RK Hauler wrote:
Haven't tried yet, but hoping I can reproduce the overload with the trailer sitting. After stopping and sitting still I can pump the brakes all day long and no warning. Gonna take some work that's all there is to it. I'll share what I find....or hopefully find. Thanks for all the good tips.

Greg,
It may be that a shorting brake wire only comes in contact with a ground when the trailer is in motion and slowing due to brake deployment.

Rewiring the brake system is one of the easier wiring jobs on a trailer since nearly all of it is out in the open. You can get as obsessive as you deem fit with the process.

FWIW, I ran all the brake wiring into loom and flexible conduit since I have first hand experience with trailer wiring failures. All it takes is one small rock bouncing down the road or a wheel spitting a pebble at a wire, to part a wire. Sometimes, the wire breaks inside the jacket and is very hard to pinpoint.

[j-d]

If you're gonna run the brake wires OUTSIDE the axle, which just about all of us recommend:

1. Use Electrical Tape. I've found Tape lasts longer than ZIP ties. That' on boat trailers that get dipped in salt water. Yours'll be high and dry plus in the shade.

2. String it along the rear edge of the axle. It'll be protected from road debris, and also from pinching by bottoming or somebody jacking the axle.

[marcsbigfoot20b]

The last time I had a similar intermittent problem with my P3 it turned out I had broken the second leaf on the leaf spring and it was sagging bad, trailer was bottoming out and smashing the brake wire shorting to frame.

[The_real_wild1]

Have someone in the truck on the brakes while you grab any wiring you can see and wiggle it. Might be able to find the short that way too.

[RK_Hauler]

Haven't tried yet, but hoping I can reproduce the overload with the trailer sitting. After stopping and sitting still I can pump the brakes all day long and no warning. Gonna take some work that's all there is to it. I'll share what I find....or hopefully find. Thanks for all the good tips.

[westend]

The easiest way would be to test each axle end brake wires with a clamp-ammeter. Amperage will spike if there is a loose wire or shorting magnet. I've never heard of a magnet failing.

I'd strongly suggest to just rewire the whole brake system. Construct the wiring into a "Star" configuration rather than the typical daisy chain. If an owner wires each brake pair of wires to a terminal strip on the tongue of the trailer, diagnosis is a snap since the pairs are right in front and easily checked with a meter for any faults. The Star configuration will also allow the most power possible to each brake.

[The_real_wild1]

Check the plug. Make sure nothing got in there that could short out. Pretty rare but it does happen. The wires near the brakes are a common failure point. Easy to rub through and short out. Another option is the wiring looks ok is to just rewire it. Usually the wiring in trailers isn't the best. One more thing I thought of is to listen to each one. Like get underneath and get your ear right in there while someone is pressing on the control lever. You can usually hear them.

[larry_barnhart]

I guess you could lift one side off the ground and pull the emergency cable. this would stop the wheels from turning or check the wires with a meter. Ours had a 2 " bare wire that looked like it was heated close to a weld.. We have as you said a wire on the outside tie wrapped to the axle. Still running the same alpenlite with out any brake issues and same bearings and brake shoes. truck does most of the braking.

chevman