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Progressive Dynamics Wizard Pendant

1L243
Explorer II
Explorer II
I just installed the Progressive Dynamics 9260C converter. It comes with the Wizard Pendant that is suppose to show the state of charge by flashing at certain intervals.

The install went fine but a little confused on how the pendant is suppose to work.

My batteries showed that they were fully charged by last night after being plugged into the new converter for several hours.

According to my battery monitor the batteries were only taking in .53 of a amp. That should be Float or storage mode and the Wizard should be blinking every 5 seconds or so. BUT it's not it blinking every other second like in Normal mode.

If I use the manual override button to put it in float mode it eventually will go back to normal mode?

Either it's taking much longer to reach float mode or the Pendant is not working right or it's operator error

Any thoughts
2017 Coleman 300tq by Dutchman Toy Hauler. 34.5 feet long and under 10k Gross. 500 watt Solar 2000 watt Inverter, 1999 Ford F250 2WD 7.3 4R100 DP Tuner, S&B Cold Air Intake, Gauges, 6.0 Trans Cooler, Air Bags.
22 REPLIES 22

1L243
Explorer II
Explorer II
Yeah I hit float mode this morning! It only took 3 days!!!
2017 Coleman 300tq by Dutchman Toy Hauler. 34.5 feet long and under 10k Gross. 500 watt Solar 2000 watt Inverter, 1999 Ford F250 2WD 7.3 4R100 DP Tuner, S&B Cold Air Intake, Gauges, 6.0 Trans Cooler, Air Bags.

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
Not sure the way PD "thinks" works with the internal resistance difference of an LFP or if that has anything to do with it.

Years ago, Hurricaner tried to correct me on how the battery limits amps, not the converter (except by its current high limit), and eventually I got that, but no idea how that works with LFPs and their version of "natural acceptance rates".

I have a notion this might affect the timing for when the PD would drop to "Normal", but not a clue what really happens.
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
BFL13 wrote:
The PD 4hr timer is when you trigger boost with the CW, otherwise it does boost by itself if needed for as long as needed. Not sure what happens if the batts get near full before the 4 hrs is up when using the CW. From previous threads on this ISTR it thinks 97% SOC is "full" and it drops to "Normal". This showed up with fisherguy's graphs.
This sounds perfect for LFP. Too bad PD brought out the "lithium" models that run the voltage too high for too long.

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
The PD 4hr timer is when you trigger boost with the CW, otherwise it does boost by itself if needed for as long as needed. Not sure what happens if the batts get near full before the 4 hrs is up when using the CW. From previous threads on this ISTR it thinks 97% SOC is "full" and it drops to "Normal". This showed up with Fisherguy's graphs.

scroll to the PD graph top of page 1 and then discussion about the 4 hrs.

https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/24129716/gotomsg/24130417.cfm#24130417
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.

pianotuna
Nomad III
Nomad III
DrewE,

That was not my wizard experience. 14.4 for four hours, then 13.6, and finally 13.2.

That may have been influenced by the solar.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

DrewE
Explorer II
Explorer II
pianotuna wrote:
4 hours boost. Mine would take many weeks to get to float when I had 875 amp-hours of battery bank.


It will stay in boost until the system's voltage exceeds some threshold voltage (I don't know exactly what it is) and then four hours more, as far as I can tell. If the batteries are low, that can be significantly more than four hours.

Bobbo
Explorer II
Explorer II
1L243 wrote:
No I have a shunted battery monitor that shows battery rate of charge and discharge.. I shows load amp hours and battery charge percentage.

The only idiot light im tring to figure out is the Converters Wizard Pendant. Which has to be plugged into shore power for it to work.

Thank you for the clarification. That is useful information that could have prevented useless speculation.
Bobbo and Lin
2017 F-150 XLT 4x4 SuperCab w/Max Tow Package 3.5l EcoBoost V6
2017 Airstream Flying Cloud 23FB

pianotuna
Nomad III
Nomad III
4 hours boost. Mine would take many weeks to get to float when I had 875 amp-hours of battery bank.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

Gdetrailer
Explorer III
Explorer III
1L243 wrote:
I just got off the phone with BestCoverter and their theory is there can be no load on the system for 30 to 40 hours like a light and maybe even a parasitic load like 4 watts for the Wizard to go into storage mode.

I guess Will see over time it it ever reaches storage mode.


Which is exactly what I told you.

Remove the fuses for the "parasitic" (AKA phantom) loads and wait two days. Then see what has happened.

Storage means storage of the entire RV and it is possible that the phantom loads you are measuring and the fact that your batteries most likely are not fully charged (topped off) because you are relying on a measuring device what you arbitrarily must setup the "100%charge" setting.

You can verify the state of charge on FLAs by checking the specific gravity of the electrolyte and then adjust/reset your charge monitor in order to synchronize your battery charge monitor to the reality of where the batteries are charge wise.

It can take days if not weeks to get the last 1% of the charge into the batteries to top them off..

1L243
Explorer II
Explorer II
I just got off the phone with BestCoverter and their theory is there can be no load on the system for 30 to 40 hours like a light and maybe even a parasitic load like 4 watts for the Wizard to go into storage mode.

I guess Will see over time it it ever reaches storage mode.
2017 Coleman 300tq by Dutchman Toy Hauler. 34.5 feet long and under 10k Gross. 500 watt Solar 2000 watt Inverter, 1999 Ford F250 2WD 7.3 4R100 DP Tuner, S&B Cold Air Intake, Gauges, 6.0 Trans Cooler, Air Bags.

1L243
Explorer II
Explorer II
I just read specification on the interweb about the 9260C that did not come with the Converter and it said

"Storage mode: once the battery reaches full charge and remains unused for 30 hours, this mode maintains a lower voltage to compensate for self discharge. This reduces battery stress and minimizes gassing and water loss"

I guess it depends on what unused means?
2017 Coleman 300tq by Dutchman Toy Hauler. 34.5 feet long and under 10k Gross. 500 watt Solar 2000 watt Inverter, 1999 Ford F250 2WD 7.3 4R100 DP Tuner, S&B Cold Air Intake, Gauges, 6.0 Trans Cooler, Air Bags.

1L243
Explorer II
Explorer II
Gdetrailer wrote:
1L243 wrote:
I just checked the battery monitor and it said the batteries were at 100% they were receiving a .53 of a amp charge at 13.6 volts with a 6 watt load.

At the same time the Wizard Pendant was flashing in Normal mode.

It's been about 35 hours since I installed the converter and the trailer has been plugged into shore power during that time.


13.6V at .53A is 7.2W, 6W is going to your "load" and 1.2W is going to your batteries which covers self discharge.

That 6W load may be enough to prevent the Charge Wizard from dropping to storage mode (13.2V).

I would suggest removing all loads then try again.

6W load may be "phantom" loads from the stereo memory, fridge control board, water heater control board (DSI), propane detector and if equipped propane shut of solenoid controlled by propane detector.

My RV has no stereo, no fridge with electronic control board and has a manual pilot light water heater.. My PD pendant has no issue dropping to storage mode and the pair of 6V GC batteries use less than 20 oz of water per yr..


I agree they are phantom loads that I cant do anything about they will always be there.

What I see on the monitor is a load of 6 watts but a positive rate of charge of half and amp. The monitor screen also pulsates when it's receiving a charge so you can tell at a glance what it's doing and it is pulsating.
2017 Coleman 300tq by Dutchman Toy Hauler. 34.5 feet long and under 10k Gross. 500 watt Solar 2000 watt Inverter, 1999 Ford F250 2WD 7.3 4R100 DP Tuner, S&B Cold Air Intake, Gauges, 6.0 Trans Cooler, Air Bags.

1L243
Explorer II
Explorer II
Bobbo wrote:
You keep saying that your battery monitor shows 100% full, but don't post voltages. I am assuming that you are talking about the idiot lights on the RV wall. That light will show 100% charge anytime the voltage at the battery (note that I did not say OF the battery) is 12.7v or 12.8v, or somewhere in that area. Since the absolute LOWEST voltage your PD will output is 13.2v, that idiot light will ALWAYS show 100% charged while plugged in. It is responding to the PD's voltage, not the battery's voltage. That is a totally meaningless reading.

If you want that idiot light to have at least SOME meaning, unplug the RV from shore power and let it sit for a day for the battery's surface charge to dissipate. Then, and ONLY then, will that idiot light have any POSSIBLE meaning. But, it will still be only a vague indication.



No I have a shunted battery monitor that shows battery rate of charge and discharge.. I shows load amp hours and battery charge percentage.

The only idiot light im tring to figure out is the Converters Wizard Pendant. Which has to be plugged into shore power for it to work.
2017 Coleman 300tq by Dutchman Toy Hauler. 34.5 feet long and under 10k Gross. 500 watt Solar 2000 watt Inverter, 1999 Ford F250 2WD 7.3 4R100 DP Tuner, S&B Cold Air Intake, Gauges, 6.0 Trans Cooler, Air Bags.

1L243
Explorer II
Explorer II
wa8yxm wrote:
What kind of battery monitor. The standard indicator on the wall of most RV's will always show "Full up" when plugged in, any "Volt meter" type indicator shows full up when plugged into shore power.
The current may also be different than what you think it is .

Give the Wiz at least a day to charge than read it. worked fine on mine.


I have a shunted battery monitor it shows power coming and going amp hours and percentage of charge. I also tested the voltage at the battery 13.6 volts but that is controlled by the converter while its plugged into shore power.
2017 Coleman 300tq by Dutchman Toy Hauler. 34.5 feet long and under 10k Gross. 500 watt Solar 2000 watt Inverter, 1999 Ford F250 2WD 7.3 4R100 DP Tuner, S&B Cold Air Intake, Gauges, 6.0 Trans Cooler, Air Bags.