Propane pipes and rerouting pipes project

[path1]

My OEM wasted a lot of space routing pex pipe and copper lines to different appliances. (Like most OEM's do). If I were to re- route some lines I would have a lot more room. For example, under the sink near hot water heater looks like OEM just drilled a hole in middle of the floor, under the sink sink and ran pipe to hot water heater.

What I've been thinking for some time about (after a few other projects) of re-routeing pipes (water of propane) to hug the wall or get pipe out of the way as to not have a pipes create so much wasted space.

It also seems to me the type of pipe doesn't matter (propane). Right now I go from steel propane tank to pig tail vinyl hoses to regulator then a rubber hose that connects to black 1/2 inch iron pipe under trailer, then to rear of trailer to (lack of better term) propane manifold, then out of the manifold; a copper pipe to each appliance (hot heater, furance, stove, refrig).

And 1/2 inch black pipe is quite a bit larger than my copper pipe. Iron pipe is probably easier for me to work with instead making lots of bends with a copper pipe.

Questions…

1. Any reason I couldn't just use black pipe as much as possible to the connection to the appliance? Or should I have use copper being it is somewhat more flexible?

2. No problems on sizing of pipe as long as I'm within spec's on manometer as far as pressure to applinace? (I forget that number right now).

Thanks

[MEXICOWANDERER]

I'm a big chicken around LPG. I ran a schedule 80 line down each frame rail then stubbed appliance tees up and through the floor. Then low pressure **** valve followed by LPG flex to the appliance. I was fortunate I had a friend who worked at an LPG delivery company custom make nipple lengths on board his service truck.

I also put an 11" water column pressure gauge under the sink and by turning everything off, the length of time it takes for the gauge to hit zero tells me if I have a leak.

[JaxDad]

Just be aware, depending on your location and camping / travel locations, sometimes just a few inches of air space between a water pipe and a cold wall (especially inside a closed area) could be the difference between a frozen pipe or not.

[ScottG]

path1 wrote:

ScottG wrote:

Dusty R wrote:
No problem using black steel/iron pipe, just don't use galvanized.
Be sure to check for leaks.

Actually it's perfectly fine to use galvanized pipe now and it is code compliant.
There were two reasons for not using it years ago:

One was because it wasn't made well and would come apart. With modern material this is no longer a problem and some newer HW stores don't even carry the black anymore.

The other reason not to use it is if there are existing water pipes in the dwelling that use galv. pipe. They did not want any chance of someone cutting into a gas line by mistake.

News to me. I thought no galvanized because in manufacturing process some little chunks get inside of pipe and could plug up orifices down stream.

Nah, it was never about chucks, just that the galv. would come off in tiny flakes. Newer stuff adhere's perfectly and is used all over.
Unfortunately I just learned this myself and it was after using black on my own TT and plumbing someones house for a new Gas fireplace, BBQ and range. I wish I had know so I could have used the clean stuff.

[path1]

ScottG wrote:

Dusty R wrote:
No problem using black steel/iron pipe, just don't use galvanized.
Be sure to check for leaks.

Actually it's perfectly fine to use galvanized pipe now and it is code compliant.
There were two reasons for not using it years ago:

One was because it wasn't made well and would come apart. With modern material this is no longer a problem and some newer HW stores don't even carry the black anymore.

The other reason not to use it is if there are existing water pipes in the dwelling that use galv. pipe. They did not want any chance of someone cutting into a gas line by mistake.

News to me. I thought no galvanized because in manufacturing process some little chunks get inside of pipe and could plug up orifices down stream.

[ScottG]

Dusty R wrote:
No problem using black steel/iron pipe, just don't use galvanized.
Be sure to check for leaks.

Actually it's perfectly fine to use galvanized pipe now and it is code compliant.
There were two reasons for not using it years ago:

One was because it wasn't made well and would come apart. With modern material this is no longer a problem and some newer HW stores don't even carry the black anymore.

The other reason not to use it is if there are existing water pipes in the dwelling that use galv. pipe. They did not want any chance of someone cutting into a gas line by mistake.

[mobeewan]

Black pipe is cheaper than copper, under the trailer copper is more susceptible to damage but even more susceptible to theft. Oooh look, copper.

When running copper through the trailer, it is easier to work with. Can be bent easily to conform to the necessary path. This is the softer flexible copper tubing that comes in a coil and not the hard copper tubing that is more like thin pipe and requiring soldered joints. There are only 2 connections per line. One black pipe connection under the trailer and the other at the appliance. Less chances for leaks inside the trailer.

Black pipe requires 2 extra joints each time you change the direction of the run with multiple joints between the main line under the trailer and the appliance unless you are lucky enough to get a straight vertical run from the main under the trailer and the appliance.

Another issue is with copper being flexible enough you can make your connection to the Appliance before sliding it the rest of the way into place or if you need to remove the appliance sliding it out enough to get to the connection so that you can remove it. Using black pipe you need to be able to get to the connection at the appliance after ofwhile it is in place to tighten or loosen it and you will need the use of some sort of swivel connector since you can't thread the pipe straight into the appliance for the final connection.

[Jim]

Routing of propane (black pipe) does matter. They are routed in such a fashion that a typical fender bender does not crack or bust one open, cause a gas leak, and an explosion.

Take care with rerouting propane pipes. Usually they are routed along the frame rails until just before they head upstairs.

Water pipes? No worries.

[Dusty_R]

No problem using black steel/iron pipe, just don't use galvanized.
Be sure to check for leaks.