Redo or leave as is?

[Bert_the_Welder]

I already posted this question, but it disappeared or something went wrong. Anyway, second go....

Roof caulking needs to be redone. There is a small leak in the cab over in particular, but all the lap sealant needs a going over.
My conundrum since it will be listed for sale is to redo or not?
I'll be completely honest with buyers regardless. But looking for opinions on whether to spend the hours + material $ its going to take for not really any value added or leave it for the next guy. Most buyers, I'd think, would be naturally wary of brand new caulk as well as whatever the seller says. (I would) Or, since it's an older 90's camper and will not sell for more then a few grand, leave it for the next guy so he knows it's part of the price as a project.
Anyone have thoughts?

[Bert_the_Welder]

Well, BFL, Ed was on my side today. Perfect for getting the repair done. Got a good clean with the Denat. Alc. and rags. Flashed off quick too which is good. Bought two tubes, so just continued to doing the other spots that looked dodgy.
Thanks again to you and everyone for your input.
I'll let it set up and get the new tarp hung on it.
Anyone know what a rough cure time is for it. Doesn't say on the tube. Obviously weather and temperature is a factor.
Thanks!

[Bert_the_Welder]

BFL13 wrote:
Yes, plug the leak and that's it. This guy says in his ad the camper had a leak.

https://www.usedvictoria.com/classified-ad/1996-Oakland-Camper_36568031

I paid $2500 for the one in my sig. He was asking way more, but I kept on about previous leaks you could tell even though he had fixed all that.

Worst thing about old but fixed leaks is soft wood in the corners where the jacks are attached. The 11 ft 1981 camper we had a few years ago had the front jacks tear away and it fell nose down. I did not get killed. I managed to repair all that myself. Got $2300 for it late 2017

This 1991 camper we have now has one front jack starting to come away but I was onto that real quick, being gun-shy from the last time. 😞 So I was right to be worried about old but fixed leaks. Good thing I can do those kinds of repair myself.

My biggest worry when selling the old camper (and the 5er we had too) was clueless buyers who only had half ton trucks and didn't seem like they knew how to fix anything. Just take their money or try to educate them?
"Never give a sucker an even break" doesn't work for me. As it was, the buyers who did take them had some idea plus friends with repair skills, so it worked out well.

Hope you weren't fast asleep in it when it went over! Yikes!

Everything feels pretty solid. But one never honestly knows until you take her clothes off with the lights on.... ;):W

That guys listing is about how I was gonna put it. And ours is the same vintage. 96' Okanagan, 10.5', N/S queen, wet bath. 3 way fridge, stove/oven, Atwood jacks, Trojan group 31, after market charger/converter. It's a very nicely laid out camper with tons of storage. And a great DIY as things could be picked away at over time and still use it in between. Might list it with the truck as a package if someone wants.
I just want to be honest with people, so I think I'll just repair the leaky spot and give her a good bath. I've given up on people long ago. They're gonna do what they're gonna do. But I will list it as a 3/4 ton minimum if for only saving my time being wasted.

If we didn't have the money and did have the time, I'd strip it naked and redo it. But we're pretty set on a new N.L 10.2 and a new F350 7.3 C.C./ LB/ dually. Only problem being There aren't any trucks of that build on the island to take for a test drive. And not much in the way of places to get a Northern Lite 10.2 dry bath. Thinking of going over to the factory to have a look at them. Just wish you could order direct.

And with the new camper, we'll get a barn built to store it in. I'm done farting around with tarps that only last a year or two and are a constant PITA to keep in place. Plus it will greatly reduce UV and weather damage, keeping it in good shape if/when we resell, which wouldn't likely be for a long time.

Got some Dicor from Tom's so will clean and patch tomorrow. Will used the heat gun to warm it up a bit, if needed.

Thanks again for posting.

[BurbMan]

I would tend to agree with you, leave it the way it is and sell it cheap. The average lifespan of most RV refrigerators is 15 years, and a new cooling unit is $500. When they get that old the clock is ticking, it's only a matter of time until something breaks. Sell it while you can and take what you can get for it.

[BFL13]

Yes, plug the leak and that's it. This guy says in his ad the camper had a leak.

https://www.usedvictoria.com/classified-ad/1996-Oakland-Camper_36568031

I paid $2500 for the one in my sig. He was asking way more, but I kept on about previous leaks you could tell even though he had fixed all that.

Worst thing about old but fixed leaks is soft wood in the corners where the jacks are attached. The 11 ft 1981 camper we had a few years ago had the front jacks tear away and it fell nose down. I did not get killed. I managed to repair all that myself. Got $2300 for it late 2017

This 1991 camper we have now has one front jack starting to come away but I was onto that real quick, being gun-shy from the last time. 😞 So I was right to be worried about old but fixed leaks. Good thing I can do those kinds of repair myself.

My biggest worry when selling the old camper (and the 5er we had too) was clueless buyers who only had half ton trucks and didn't seem like they knew how to fix anything. Just take their money or try to educate them?
"Never give a sucker an even break" doesn't work for me. As it was, the buyers who did take them had some idea plus friends with repair skills, so it worked out well.

[Bert_the_Welder]

BFL13 wrote:
As a buyer of 90s RVs 🙂 I would say to just get a roll of Eternabond ($100 on Amazon or $150 at an RV place) and use that. Price the camper accordingly. The killer would be signs of leaking inside the RV--mould or damage.

You will know after a few people look at it what it's market value really is.

Only a few days left this year when it will be warm enough out ( and dry too) for RV roof work anyway. Eternabond will stick when it is cooler but dry.

I've got some E-tape left from doing the sky lights. And yeah, our weather for cast is supposed to be sunny for a couple more days so that's why I thought of getting it done, plus the tarp is off and new one is ready.
BUT, as you're here to, you know Ed ain't that accurate with his forecasts..... 🙂
Just hope the local place out here on the Westshore has dicor in stock. The leak is on the corner of the roof/wall so E-Tape would be a bit too unsightly.
Thanks!

[Bert_the_Welder]

BurbMan wrote:
What's the rest of the camper look like? If the camper is in really great condition and presents well, everything works, etc, then I would go ahead and do the re-caulk and sell it like it was meticulously maintained all through the years. The material won't cost you that much and you'll get top dollar from a buyer who is ready to put it on his truck and go camping.

On the other hand, if there are other issues such as items or appliances that don't work, faded/yellowing exterior plastics, interior is looking tired and worn, etc., then I would sell it as "needs some TLC" and let the new owner take care of the caulking as part of whatever other mods it needs.

It has expected issues given it's age. Plastic has yellowed. Bolts and screws have rust. Stains and oxidation, etc, etc. Interior isn't mint but isn't trashed either. All things work, no issues. There is a bit of staining on the plywood floor of the cab over from the leak that I'll clean with bleach. The two black pipe roof vent covers have broke off and with be a bear to excavate. Plastic cover for the fridge venting has a corner cracked off and the plastic is pretty sun beaten.
I think I'm leaning to fixing the leaky spot and just giving her a good bath. That way the next guy knows up front what he's buying.
I think my time vs reward isn't seeming like an advantageous equation the more I think about it. But like to hear all opinions. 🙂

[Bert_the_Welder]

2oldman wrote:
You mean the 'prep' post? It's there.

No. Prep post was just asking about favourite cleaners for prep'ing the old dicor, if I do redo it. 🙂 Thanks.

[BFL13]

As a buyer of 90s RVs 🙂 I would say to just get a roll of Eternabond ($100 on Amazon or $150 at an RV place) and use that. Price the camper accordingly. The killer would be signs of leaking inside the RV--mould or damage.

You will know after a few people look at it what it's market value really is.

Only a few days left this year when it will be warm enough out ( and dry too) for RV roof work anyway. Eternabond will stick when it is cooler but dry.

[BurbMan]

What's the rest of the camper look like? If the camper is in really great condition and presents well, everything works, etc, then I would go ahead and do the re-caulk and sell it like it was meticulously maintained all through the years. The material won't cost you that much and you'll get top dollar from a buyer who is ready to put it on his truck and go camping.

On the other hand, if there are other issues such as items or appliances that don't work, faded/yellowing exterior plastics, interior is looking tired and worn, etc., then I would sell it as "needs some TLC" and let the new owner take care of the caulking as part of whatever other mods it needs.

[2oldman]

You mean the 'prep' post? It's there.