Repairing A/C, Leaked All Refrigerant

[joeshmoe]

Have a lightly used Coleman Mach that I replaced after only a couple years (It actually began dying the first year). It sprung a leak shortly after I purchased the camper, and all the make-it-cold stuff eventually came out. I've looked around and found a few pages about repairing these things. Apprently, installing one of those "saddle" valves after the repair is made almost always end up leaking. So soldering in an low pressure valve is the "proper" way to repair these otherwise unrepairable units.

I just hate to toss the thing. It has very little use. It's practically new. I'd like to at least see if it's possible, and get a few bucks for it to offset the cost of the new one I purchased.

Thoughts? Is it worth it or even doable?

[wa8yxm]

joeshmoe wrote:
Have a lightly used Coleman Mach that I replaced after only a couple years (It actually began dying the first year). It sprung a leak shortly after I purchased the camper, and all the make-it-cold stuff eventually came out. I've looked around and found a few pages about repairing these things. Apprently, installing one of those "saddle" valves after the repair is made almost always end up leaking. So soldering in an low pressure valve is the "proper" way to repair these otherwise unrepairable units.

Best option on those is always replacement.

However if the leak is in a location where it can be totally and completely fixed and properly sealed.. (There is something called a vacuum test.. you suck it down and leave a meter attached. 10 or 15 minutes later if the needle has not moved..> GOOD. note you need to suck it down anyway for like an hour or more.

I have installed a couple of saddle valves on other stuff.

never had one leak. NEVER.

OH. one final comment on Coleman A/Cs.. My Service tech says "They Suck" but she means it in a good way

The rooftop unit sucks air in via the condenser. that means that all the "Crud" that eventually blocks the air flow collects on teh OUTSIDE of the condenser.. Remove outer cover. peal or brush off, replace outer cover.

Others "BLOW" so you have to remove outer cover. Remove INNER cover (Varies from a few screws to a jell of a hob) With my tiny hands (XXXL) I have to remove the fan. then I can get in and clean it..

I LOVE MY COLEMAN.

[dougrainer]

I have all the tools and both Freon 22 and 410 and the knowledge to do the repair. I would NOT waste my time fixing this unit if someone gave it to me. You can flush and evacuate and find the leak and solder the leak. Takes 1 lb of coolant. About 2 or 3 hours of my time. Now, I fix it. I have a operational AC. Odds are, after a few months the compressor will probably fail and then my work and time is wasted. Maybe not, but odds work against you on things like this. Now, if you are bored or want to learn, then fixing this would be a good project. Doug

[joeshmoe]

Thanks for the tips. I'll decide what to do.

[ScottG]

theoldwizard1 wrote:
I am not a professional HVAC tech, but I think ScottG is over reacting.

Brazing in an appropriate low side port does make a proper torch and the skill to braze. If you are going to add a low side, you might as well add a high side. Now you need to buy the correct gauge set and a vacuum pump. Now find the leak.

The Harbor Freight Gauges and vacuum pump work, but they don't seem to last a long time.

I am lucky in that I have a neighbor who's son is a pro. If I do the hard work, he will do the "technical" part.

I suggest before the OP wastes a lot of money of equipment and gas, he should call a real HVAC tech and let them know the unit was stored with the freon leaked out (and therefor the sealed system is open).
Then he can put the money towards a new ac.

[theoldwizard1]

I am not a professional HVAC tech, but I think ScottG is over reacting.

Brazing in an appropriate low side port does make a proper torch and the skill to braze. If you are going to add a low side, you might as well add a high side. Now you need to buy the correct gauge set and a vacuum pump. Now find the leak.

The Harbor Freight Gauges and vacuum pump work, but they don't seem to last a long time.

I am lucky in that I have a neighbor who's son is a pro. If I do the hard work, he will do the "technical" part.

[Joe417]

Any of them can be repaired. If all that was wrong was a leak, it's usually a simple fix. I was fortunate to have a brother 19 yrs older than me who taught HVAC when I was growing up. He required his students to cut a hermetically sealed compressor open and repair it, although they would never do it in the field.

The question, is it worth the effort to you to learn how. You already have the AC. You already have the internet and you probably have access to a library.

Learning new processes keeps the mind young.

[joeshmoe]

I know that. Thanks. Fixing it doesnt appear to an option anyhow according to scott.

[dougrainer]

NO 120 AC RV unit used 134a. 410 and Freon 22.
Your problem is this. Just installing a Schrader valve and evacuating and filling will do NO GOOD. Unless you find the leak and fix it. Doug

[joeshmoe]

ScottG wrote:
If it has sat in an empty condition then it's toast. They need to be fixed quickly otherwise moisture is obsorbed into the system and forms acid when it mixes with the remains of the freon. Then it destroys everything in its path.

Been sitting about off the camper about a year. So I guess evacuating wouldn't matter in this case?

drmopar wrote:
What year A/C? Old may take R-22 Freon, newer 134A Freon. Easy to solder new valve to charge system. You will need a vacuum pump and a A/C manifold gauge set. Any quality A/C guy should be able to repair. About $140.00-$250.00 estimate. Any remaining Freon can not be emptied in the atmosphere. If you do the work, wear safety glasses.-Good Luck

It's newer. Had 410 in it.

Big Katuna wrote:
You can buy new for under $600 delivered with a warranty.

I bought a new one last year. Was hoping to maybe revive this one and sell it since it has so few miles on it. Thanks.

[Big_Katuna]

You can buy new for under $600 delivered with a warranty.

[drmopar]

What year A/C? Old may take R-22 Freon, newer 134A Freon. Easy to solder new valve to charge system. You will need a vacuum pump and a A/C manifold gauge set. Any quality A/C guy should be able to repair. About $140.00-$250.00 estimate. Any remaining Freon can not be emptied in the atmosphere. If you do the work, wear safety glasses.-Good Luck

[ScottG]

If it has sat in an empty condition then it's toast. They need to be fixed quickly otherwise moisture is obsorbed into the system and forms acid when it mixes with the remains of the freon. Then it destroys everything in its path.