1.The refrigerator controls will work down to 9.6 VDC
2. If you have a climate control that heats the door strip to prevent condensation, that will consume 12v power. I only use mine if im plugged in.
3. If you have a 3 way fridge and try to run it on the 12v mode and not LP you will consume about 18 amps and hour. I dont have a 3 way refidge and I dont know why they even make them. with your 135 ah batt fully charged youll get 3 hours maybe on 12v.
4. As stated LP use will net longest run time. Standard 20 lb LP bottle will run fridge well over a month. 12v is only needed to power the control board. Its probably about 1 amp draw if that. so with your 135 amp fully charged youll get technically 60 days or so run time.
5.So what is Reserve Capacity? It is a time measurement that explains how long a fully-charged battery can deliver 25 amps of current in an 80ยฐF-environment, before the battery is discharged down to 10.5 volts.
( My old batterys had a 90 min RC. These were marine starting batt)
6. The issue with mixing battery sizes is not on use. Its charging them that is the issue. They will not charge evenly and youll just boil the smaller of the two..
With that said I doubt you have a 135 AH batt and it is indeed RC. I say this because its not a common battery and looks to only come in AGM. And that battery would be in the $400 range.
I say you have about a 70 ah battery there on the one that says 135.
44 ah @ c/20 =90 min RC cca 720
50 ah @ c/20 = 100 min RC cca 800
75 ah @ c/20 = 155 min RC cca 900
IMO go to your local sams club and get two 24DCC batterys. These are what I have and are $80 bucks each..
walmart 24dc Check the specs to make sure 75 ah.( or walmarts, costco..etc but make sure they are the 75 ah versions)
75 AH batterys. Two nets you 140 ah, but 50% discharge gets you 1/2 of that.
duracell 24DCC 75 AH
Mike L ... N.J.
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