Solar Options

[SkiSmuggs]

While batting around ideas on expanding a portable solar set up, it occurred to me there may be other options like using the portable to expand roof mount. My wife is adamant about not putting solar on the roof, but we haven't discussed why. I think it is more the expenditure than anything else and what I have in mind may only be a little over $200.
I could put a couple of 100w panels on the roof of my fifth wheel, but not do the permanent wiring so that I would just connect when off grid. If off grid in the shade, I could connect the 100w portable for additional charging. I have a Solar30 controller on order which I plan to mount in the basement near the battery bank. The problem is connecting the roof panels to it when needed and how best to do that without flapping cables. I am not personally comfortable with drilling through the roof for cabling, but okay with the mounting part of it. I could run the cables off the roof and in through the landing gear area to Anderson connectors from the controller, but how to do a clean rooftop connection is where I could use some help. I haven't used MC4 connectors yet, so I don't know how easily they disconnect. I suppose SB50 connectors inside a junction box on the roof might work.

[jrnymn7]

OP said,

"This is a rear kitchen unit with batteries up front so I don't have that option."

Why not? It's jut a matter of dropping down thru the fridge roof vent, like others have suggested, then thru the floor behind the fridge, and running cable from back to front, under the rig. All out of sight. Leave the connections at the panels connected at all times.

Size your panel-to-controller wiring appropriately, allowing for minimal voltage drop, using this:

scroll down

(For example, I'm running 30' of 6 ga. cable from two 140w panels to controller)

Install the controller out of the weather, and close to the batteries. Include a circuit breaker (or switch) near the controller, between the panels and controller, for opening (i.e; disconnecting) the panel circuit when making adjustments to the controller.

Likewise, wire the controller to batteries with appropriate cabling, circuit breaker, and good quality terminal connectors.

[SteveAE]

Hi,

As many others have suggested, if at all possible go for roof mounted panels.

Some advantages of roof mounted panels are:
- Charge while on the road, stopped for lunch, or parked at home
- Security of the panels
- Mount and (almost) forget it
- No need to find storage space for portable panels
- Not constantly fussing with them to track the sun
- Possibly shorter distances involved which lower wiring costs

If your wife is concerned about water intrusion (a valid concern), find a reputable installer and have then do the work.

Portable panels can produce more power if properly positioned and adjusted throughout the day. But, is this what you really want to spend your day doing?

Whatever you come up with though, you will enjoy solar.

Steve

[Harvey51]

The side mounted, aimable panels are most interesting, Tom.

[Fubeca]

I went through the roof - and dropped down through an interior cabinet and then into the front pass-through where the controller and inverter live. Be creative - there is almost always a solution!

[KD4UPL]

Use the fridge vent, plumbing vent stack, or penetrate the roof. Seal it properly, and fish the wires around by removing speakers and lights for ceiling access. Did your RV happen to come with a solar pre-wire and already have a connector on the roof. Mine did I couldn't ever find the other end of the wires so I had to run my own anyway.

[BFL13]

SkiSmuggs wrote:

smkettner wrote:
Put the two 100w panels up there not too close to the edge, run the MC4 wire down the fridge vent to the controller. Use MC4 parallel connectors to connect the panels together.
Compliment DW on how well she is conserving battery power 😉

This is a rear kitchen unit with batteries up front so I don't have that option. With the panels at the front of the roof, down the outside wall by the bedroom slideout and in via the landing gear while dry camping will work, just not a permanent installation and one that allows for a clean removal if we ever trade it in.
The DW likes the idea of camping off grid to save money, but doesn't want me spending money or altering the appearance of the fiver to do it. LOL! So the conversion to 2GC batteries was okay, but the addition of 12v receptacles wasn't as she can see them, even though I had to point them out and they can be removed without evidence once I get some done that look professional. In that regard, solar panels on the roof are okay if she doesn't see me do it, but wiring through the ceiling would be a problem. I am sympathetic with that as I'm not sure I can make a clean cable run through the roof and don't want a mess either.

Our 5er came pre-wired for solar, so a roof panel could be wired down the fridge vent and reach the batteries up front, with the controller in between.

I also have a ground based solar panel and wanted to run that and the roof panel. I had a controller for each "set" (roof and ground.)

If you examine your fridge outside vent cover on the side of the RV it has slots in it big enough to pass #8 wires through. I also drilled two holes in the platform the fridge sits on that lets wires to the battery lugs in the power centre under the fridge that go to the battery in front.

So with the roof panel going to the batts via the pre-wiring, I was also able to run the ground based panel to its controller behind the fridge out of the rain. Then the controller-battery wires went down through the holes in the fridge platform to the battery lugs on the DC panel (some have those on the converter itself) putting that solar set in parallel with the converter, and also with the other solar set at the battery bank.

I could even run the roof panel wires down the fridge vent to the behind the fridge controller and not use the pre-wiring. Lots of combos possible.

I ended up using a cable hatch in the front cargo bay door for the ground based solar instead of via the fridge vent so the ground set's controller is closer to the batteries, but that was a refinement. It worked ok with the controller farther back behind the fridge.

[Tom_M1]

I replaced the MC4 connectors on my panels with Anderson Powerpole SB50 connectors. The connectors are exposed to the elements and I have had no problems for four years. There are rubber boots available for added protection.

My panels are mounted on the side of my coach and I came through the wall with the wires. I used a small junction box and sealed it up with silicone.

[time2roll]

Better to just stick with portable, forget the roof.

[westend]

Module wiring pulled through plastic EMT. I have the wire entering the side of my trailer close to where all the electrical distributes. I have no plans to move this even if I sell the trailer. If I did want to remove the EMT, it is held by two clamp screws,easy to remove. Just thought I'd throw out another way to accomplish the run from roof to controller.



Good luck!

[SkiSmuggs]

smkettner wrote:
Put the two 100w panels up there not too close to the edge, run the MC4 wire down the fridge vent to the controller. Use MC4 parallel connectors to connect the panels together.
Compliment DW on how well she is conserving battery power 😉

This is a rear kitchen unit with batteries up front so I don't have that option. With the panels at the front of the roof, down the outside wall by the bedroom slideout and in via the landing gear while dry camping will work, just not a permanent installation and one that allows for a clean removal if we ever trade it in.
The DW likes the idea of camping off grid to save money, but doesn't want me spending money or altering the appearance of the fiver to do it. LOL! So the conversion to 2GC batteries was okay, but the addition of 12v receptacles wasn't as she can see them, even though I had to point them out and they can be removed without evidence once I get some done that look professional. In that regard, solar panels on the roof are okay if she doesn't see me do it, but wiring through the ceiling would be a problem. I am sympathetic with that as I'm not sure I can make a clean cable run through the roof and don't want a mess either.

[2oldman]

SkiSmuggs wrote:
My wife is adamant about not putting solar on the roof,

Then let her come up with an alternative.

[time2roll]

Put the two 100w panels up there not too close to the edge, run the MC4 wire down the fridge vent to the controller. Use MC4 parallel connectors to connect the panels together.
Compliment DW on how well she is conserving battery power 😉

[RoyB]

Anderson Power POLE Disconnect connectors are popular in the Amateur Radio world...

Solar PANEL Quick disconnects would be nice as well - Could use panels on the roof or setup on the ground...

I saw one setup where the solar panels was the widow shades... They were on hinges where you could move up and down and keep in the sun path.

Have also read about the flexible panels that you can stick almost anywhere...

Roy Ken

[SkiSmuggs]

TucsonJim wrote:
MC4 Connectors disconnect very easily.

So MC4 connectors from the panels into a combiner box near the edge of the roof so I can reach it from a ladder, then connect my cable there and run to the battery compartment. This sounds easy enough for me.