Solar Wiring Diagram - Any Comments/Suggestions?

[alliemac9]

Hoping to continue to tap into the collective solar intelligence here...this is my wiring diagram for the system I am planning as discussed in this thread.

Any comments? Have I missed anything? One specific question - I'm not sure when/why I would need this, but it would probably be easy to connect the converter to one of the Blue Sea Battery Switch inputs which would allow separation so that I could use several modes: Solar Only, Converter Only, Solar+Converter, All Off. Is this worth doing?

[time2roll]

alliemac9 wrote:
I mentioned that it seemed like others were putting fuses on each panel, but I never saw a discussion of why and he didn't know why and thought this was appropriate.

Any discussion of why something should probably be changed would likely help me it getting him on board. 🙂

The spec sheet calls for 15a max series rating. During a fault in one panel you have the potential to have the other panels feed the short with potentially 26 amps. 15a rating, 26 amps flowing is the issue. The 8.76 Isc rated panels I would probably use 10a fuses but 15a is fine.

Spec sheet

Frequently no fuses are needed with three or fewer panels as the remaining panels do not produce enough current for overload. Best to have the fuses in the combiner box to reduce potential corrosion issues. The chance of fault is small so some just skip it but I have a hard time recommending no fuses.

Panels in series do not have the same issue.

[alliemac9]

Thanks, everyone, for the responses so far!

@smkettner - First points noted. What's the benefit of a separate connection for the solar and the converter versus simply tying into the existing connection points before the existing fuse? As for the WFCO, we recently had to troubleshoot some issues with it, and I noted when we got it back on and functioning the system was reading 14.6V. Other than that, I haven't done any monitoring of how well its three stage system is working.

@2oldman - thanks!

@CA Traveler - I thought it seemed like others' installs involved fuses on each panel wire, I take it that's what you suggest, too? Can you provide more info as to the difference? You're right, I did simplify the TriMetric wiring. I'll be sure to read the directions and get it right. I got the 2030 and we may wire the chassis battery in while we're at it. Can you tell me more about wiring the batteries in a balanced configuration? Are you saying I haven't? And how do I and why?

@BFL13 - Points noted. We just have a small 400W inverter directly tied to the batteries (with an on/off switch to avoid parasitic load). We're going to use that for a while before deciding if we need anything more substantial. So, we don't have the inverter configuration you mention. Are you saying we just use the battery disconnect switch for the converter? If I understand our current system/plans right, if we wire into the existing connection points the existing battery disconnect would likely affect both the solar and the converter. This is why I wondered whether using the functionality of that switch as a 1/2/1+2 instead of only for one input might be helpful in some way....I'm I missing your point entirely?

@Almot - Thanks. Will have DH read your notes and figure out the DC breaker thing. As for the converter, I was told that I could just wire the solar in as an add-on and everything would essentially play together fine, so I hope that's the case (and I want to ensure I'm not planning to wire it in a way that precludes that being the case).

@westend - Thanks for the idea. Will take this into consideration along with all the other notes. I have already purchased the Blue Sea switches, however, so I'm okay with incorporating them unless they are unnecessary.

[alliemac9]

pianotuna wrote:
Hi,
Temperature probe? Battery voltage sense wires? Diversion load wiring?

The temp probe is on there (gray wire labeled temp) and (in response to another response) I wasn't as literal on the TriMetric wiring as I could've been. I know there are more than two wires that come off the shunt, and will read the directions to be sure to get it right. I'm not sure about battery voltage sense wires? Is this related to the TriMetric connections? And I don't know what diversion load wiring is... this is why I'm turning to the collective! :B

Almot is right...I'm feeling least confident about the fuses and switches and their placement as well as how the solar ties "plays" with the existing electrical. However, I'm open to all suggestions (although everything pictured has been purchased). My husband is the electrical whiz, I'm the planning and research side of the team. This is what we preliminarily came up with - I mentioned that it seemed like others were putting fuses on each panel, but I never saw a discussion of why and he didn't know why and thought this was appropriate.

Any discussion of why something should probably be changed would likely help me in getting him on board. 🙂

[westend]

I used a Bussman manual disconnect breaker between the module and controller, cheaper than the Blue Sea disconnect and offers circuit protection, also.

[Almot]

Don, you are too harsh. The OP is just trying to figure out fuses/switches thing. Temp probe and voltage sense wires need no fuses or switches.

[pianotuna]

Hi,

Temperature probe? Battery voltage sense wires? Diversion load wiring?

[Almot]

No fuse for panels. Get 12V breaker for this, and another 12V breaker for controller. Or, at least, skip the panel fuse and install the switch only.

Also, I am not 100% positive, but WFCO converter seems to do no harm when working together with panels. Mostly converter will be running float when controller is off. Therefore, - no Blue Sea switch for controller/converter.

Edit:
I used the term "12V" automatically. What I really meant was "DC breaker". They are usually up to 150VDC, with varying amperages.

[BFL13]

No fuse needed between the panels and the controller. You have the existing battery fuse so don't need that one on the controller output either.

Yes to the on/off switch for the array side of the controller. That way you can disconnect array before disconnecting/connecting controller to battery when you ever take the batteries out/replace.

Your converter is controlled by your battery disconnect switch so you don't need another switch. Unless you have an inverter with the shore power cord into it for your 120v stuff, then you need a way to turn off the converter. (some can just be unplugged, some you can use the AC circuit breaker--but if that is shared with the receptacle circuit, then you need a converter switch before it gets to that shared breaker)

Of course instead of spending over $200 for that 60a controller, I would get two $34 Solar30s and use one with each pair of panels. No combiner box, just two pairs of panels on roof then wires down to the controller for each pair. Same total amps at the battery as seen on the Trimetric.

[CA_Traveler]

You should have 3 fuses in the combiner box. The Trimetric requires 4 wires and 5 if you have the 2025 and add the chassis battery. The batteries should be wired in a balanced configuration.

[2oldman]

Best looking schematic I've ever seen!

[time2roll]

The 60a fuse in the #4 wire is not needed. You could short the wires and you would be at 35a max and no harm would come of it.

I would also skip the additional 60a fuse in the 2/0 and just stay with the existing. I believe the existing fuse needs to be closer to 100a to cover the converter and controller. Although I think I would prefer separate and direct connection for the solar and converter to the battery.

Does that WFCO actually charge properly at 14.4 volts when expected?

Simple on/off switch is available for both locations.