Suburban hot water heater issue

[jabres]

I am sure this has been posted on before, but I have a 2014 Keystone Travel trailer, with a Suburban hot water heater.
Works perfectly fine when running on propane, but when trying to run on electric, water will not heat up.
Worked a few weeks ago perfectly fine. Checked all fuses and breakers. Electric switch on the main panel lights up as if its working, just wont ever get hot. I replaced the heating element as requested by my local rv shop, and still nothing.. Any suggestions? I appreciate it!

I do remember in the past, when running on electric, I could hear a slight humming type sound when heating up the water. Doesn't make any sound whatsoever anymore.

[jabres]

Thanks again guys!

[beemerphile1]

jabres wrote:
Thanks for all the replies and advice! I checked over all the suggestions, and it ended up being the wire was melted in the junction box where the hot water heaters wires together. The white wire was melted, right at the wire nut. I cut off the bad, re-connected, and bam it all works!
So, why would this happen? To much electricity running all at once? How do I prevent from happening in the future? I appreciate everyone's help!

Loose connection causes arcing,
arcing causes heat,
heat burns wires.

At least you now have a spare element.

[BB_TX]

Poor connection in the wire nut plus high current equals high heat. Likely it was loose or the wires were just not properly stripped and twisted. Wire nut is not a problem if done correctly.

[enblethen]

My first guess would be poor workmanship. Wrong size of wire nut.
I would get some electrical de-oxidation compound, the correct size wire nut, (high temperature if possible)
You could also use a crimp connector with the de-oxidation compound.

[jabres]

Thanks for all the replies and advice! I checked over all the suggestions, and it ended up being the wire was melted in the junction box where the hot water heaters wires together. The white wire was melted, right at the wire nut. I cut off the bad, re-connected, and bam it all works!
So, why would this happen? To much electricity running all at once? How do I prevent from happening in the future? I appreciate everyone's help!

[BB_TX]

Possible problems;
Bad heating element (but you say you already replaced that)
Bad/tripped thermostat/hi temp cutout on front of water heater? (did you try the reset button?)
Switch at lower left front of water heater turned off or bad (make sure switch is on)
120 vac breaker tripped (at circuit breaker panel)
Loose or broken wire connection (multiple reports of loose neutral in junction box on back side of water heater)
Bad interposing relay (inside switch sends 12 vdc to relay on back side of WH that in turn sends 120 vac to heating element)

If you are comfortable troubleshooting live 120 vac use a voltmeter starting at the heating element and working backward until you find where 120 vac is last detected.

[Old-Biscuit]

OEM Electric On/Off Switch in outside compartment ...lower left corner ON?

Did electric High temp t-stat trip......Push to Reset (left one for electric/right for propane)
Wire that connects High and Normal t-stat burnt into? (remove Push to Reset Cover and check)

120V AC circuit breaker tripped?

Use voltmeter and follow the AC Voltage
Standard wiring....AC for element and DC for propane



IF model is a 'DEL' then DC Relay is used to trigger AC to element
Wiring for 'DEL' Models

[doxiemom11]

We have had to replace the electric heating element in ours. Sometimes they go out, in our case we were in an area with a lot of calcium in the water so it got so gunked up it wasn't heating efficiently.

[enblethen]

Locate your exact model number, it is normally located on exterior access frame.
Humming could be coming from relay is equipped.
Some installations have a safety switch in the exterior access. Verif it is on.

[rrupert]

Could be the new element is bad or the thermostat is bad. The electric element has its own thermostat, I think. Did you test the old element to see if it is burned out?