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Surge protector install

Pewter99
Explorer
Explorer
Hello everyone!
New to forum and rving.
Just got a portable surge protector that plugs in outside at the power box.
Any reason I can't install it inside if I cut the power cord and put male/female ends on the cord to keep it from getting stolen.
Thanks,
18 REPLIES 18

SoundGuy
Explorer
Explorer
SoundGuy wrote:
If you buy a hard wire model and wire it in as recommended you can't later remove it without opening it up and removing that wiring. I side stepped this issue myself by adding matching sets of 30 amp connectors to my own EMS-HW30C so I can remove it from the trailer in seconds.


TechWriter wrote:
Doing this would probably put you in violation of Progressive's Limited Warranty as it would be an "unauthorized modification".


No question, but I gave that up long ago when I modded the time delay jumper by installing a switch for more convenient operation. ๐Ÿ˜‰



Over the winter I pulled the entire guts out of the Progressive box and mounted them in a larger tool box so loss of warranty at this stage is for me a non-issue. Live dangerously. ๐Ÿ˜„

2012 Silverado 1500 Crew Cab
2014 Coachmen Freedom Express 192RBS
2003 Fleetwood Yuma * 2008 K-Z Spree 240BH-LX
2007 TrailCruiser C21RBH * 2000 Fleetwood Santa Fe
1998 Jayco 10UD * 1969 Coleman CT380

rhagfo
Explorer III
Explorer III
SoundGuy wrote:
Lantley wrote:
Maybe I should get a hardwired model and put male and female ends on it and plug it into the pedestal :S


Technically one could BUT the hard wire models use a separate plug in monitor, connected to the EMS with a 16' length of cable, so you'd have to make sure that monitor is always plugged into the EMS before powering it up. Cumbersome, to say the least. :S

Lantley wrote:
If you are going to cut wires anyway why not get a hardwired model:h


If you buy a hard wire model and wire it in as recommended you can't later remove it without opening it up and removing that wiring. I side stepped this issue myself by adding matching sets of 30 amp connectors to my own EMS-HW30C so I can remove it from the trailer in seconds. :B



If you add wire beyond the EMS then you just need to reconnect the existing wire to the panel. That is how I plan to install my hard wired unit.

I think not being able to see the display, would be a bigger issue. We got our Progressive %) amp unit for $299 on Amazon, with very nice remote display.
Russ & Paula the Beagle Belle.
2016 Ram Laramie 3500 Aisin DRW 4X4 Long bed.
2005 Copper Canyon 293 FWSLS, 32' GVWR 12,360#

"Visit and Enjoy Oregon State Parks"

TechWriter
Explorer
Explorer
SoundGuy wrote:

If you buy a hard wire model and wire it in as recommended you can't later remove it without opening it up and removing that wiring. I side stepped this issue myself by adding matching sets of 30 amp connectors to my own EMS-HW30C so I can remove it from the trailer in seconds.

Doing this would probably put you in violation of Progressive's Limited Warranty as it would be an "unauthorized modification".
2004 - 2010 Part Timer (35โ€™ 2004 National RV Sea Breeze 8341 - Workhorse)
2010 - 2021 Full Timer (41โ€™ 2001 Newmar Mountain Aire 4095 DP - Cummins)
2021 - ??? Part Timer (31โ€™ 2001 National RV Sea View 8311 - Ford)
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SoundGuy
Explorer
Explorer
Lantley wrote:
Maybe I should get a hardwired model and put male and female ends on it and plug it into the pedestal :S


Technically one could BUT the hard wire models use a separate plug in monitor, connected to the EMS with a 16' length of cable, so you'd have to make sure that monitor is always plugged into the EMS before powering it up. Cumbersome, to say the least. :S

Lantley wrote:
If you are going to cut wires anyway why not get a hardwired model:h


If you buy a hard wire model and wire it in as recommended you can't later remove it without opening it up and removing that wiring. I side stepped this issue myself by adding matching sets of 30 amp connectors to my own EMS-HW30C so I can remove it from the trailer in seconds. :B

2012 Silverado 1500 Crew Cab
2014 Coachmen Freedom Express 192RBS
2003 Fleetwood Yuma * 2008 K-Z Spree 240BH-LX
2007 TrailCruiser C21RBH * 2000 Fleetwood Santa Fe
1998 Jayco 10UD * 1969 Coleman CT380

Lantley
Nomad
Nomad
Maybe I should get a hardwired model and put male and female ends on it and plug it into the pedestal:S
If you are going to cut wires anyway why not get a hardwired model:h
19'Duramax w/hips, 2022 Alliance Paradigm 390MP >BD3,r,22" Blackstone
r,RV760 w/BC20,Glow Steps, Enduraplas25,Pedego
BakFlip,RVLock,Prog.50A surge ,Hughes autoformer
Porta Bote 8.0 Nissan, Sailun S637

thestoloffs
Explorer
Explorer
My issue wasn't having it walk away; it was having me drive away without it!

jeeperdude10
Explorer
Explorer
I have mine inside the storage compartment, utilizing my extension cord for the connection to pedestal, and surge protector inside compartment with MH cord plugged in. Easy breezy and no worries about it possibly walking away.
2016 Bounder 35K
2014 Freedom Edition JEEP Unlimited
Traveling thru this great country

Pewter99
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks everyone,
Not only for security but simplicity.

Ava
Explorer
Explorer
This why the hard wired units are much easier to have and to see the display inside the rv.

fj12ryder
Explorer III
Explorer III
If the issue is theft prevention, it's pretty much a non-issue. I've never heard of anyone having theirs stolen. Could happen, but I've never heard of it.
Howard and Peggy

"Don't Panic"

wa8yxm
Explorer III
Explorer III
Google Hughes Autoformer INstall Kit.

in fact. that's what you need to do the job. Exactly. .Cheaper if you buy parts locally I suspect, .
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times

SoundGuy
Explorer
Explorer
Pewter99 wrote:
SounGuy: Thanks, you understood what I want to accomplish. Perfect! It is EMS 30 amp.


No worries, locating your portable EMS inside your camper works fine BUT you should be aware of a couple of potential drawbacks, one fairly obvious, the other not so much. Depending on exactly where you locate your EMS inside the rig you may not be able to readily see the display and 2) the contactor inside can sometimes hum loudly enough to be heard but again that would depend on where it's located. Mine is under my sofa so I've taken steps with my current hard wire EMS to solve this ... located inside a cabinet this would be less of a concern.
2012 Silverado 1500 Crew Cab
2014 Coachmen Freedom Express 192RBS
2003 Fleetwood Yuma * 2008 K-Z Spree 240BH-LX
2007 TrailCruiser C21RBH * 2000 Fleetwood Santa Fe
1998 Jayco 10UD * 1969 Coleman CT380

Pewter99
Explorer
Explorer
SounGuy: Thanks, you understood what I want to accomplish. Perfect! It is EMS 30 amp.
Thank everyone,

SoundGuy
Explorer
Explorer
diazr2 wrote:
You won't have to cut the main wire, inside the rig you will find the big wire connected at a junction box. You can connect the protector with the wires inside the junction box.


The OP says he has a portable surge protector so if he wants to install it inside his rig of course he will have to add connectors that will plug into his unit - one male, one female. I did just this a few years ago in my own trailer when I installed a portable TRC EMS and located it under the sofa. Since mine was a 30 amp version I used matching 30 amp TT-30 connectors, obviously those with a 50 amp version would need to use TT-50 connectors.



The only comment I would add is that hopefully when the OP said "surge protector" what he really means is he purchased an EMS w/surge protection as a surge protector alone, while useful, won't protect his rig from the many vagaries of incoming source power as will an EMS.
2012 Silverado 1500 Crew Cab
2014 Coachmen Freedom Express 192RBS
2003 Fleetwood Yuma * 2008 K-Z Spree 240BH-LX
2007 TrailCruiser C21RBH * 2000 Fleetwood Santa Fe
1998 Jayco 10UD * 1969 Coleman CT380