Trailer storage, on 110v.

[RideSlow]

Have to move the trailer to a spot where I will not be able to plug in my 30 amp cord. I will have 110 available. I will have the fridge running, and possible a portable heater. Not sure if I should run the 110 inside on a power strip, or if it will be OK to use an adapter and run it thru the shore plug. Thoughts or suggestions please.

[RideSlow]

time2roll wrote:

RideSlow wrote:
I should have been more clear....I have solar for the house batteries, and I actually will run the fridge on propane. I am providing some 'in a pinch' housing for a friend, hope it is only a couple of months.

That is not exactly what I would call storage.

As long as the person understands the limitations of an RV and a 15a power supply I doubt you will have any issues.

Kind of an odd deal, trailer will not be occupied most of the time, but needs to be available when needed. Easier for them to have it on their property, than to come by my place. My son has his Foretravel parked here, and works early. I work on call and contract, sometime 6 days a week. We have other people staying here, which I don't mind at all, but is kinda crazy at times.

[time2roll]

RideSlow wrote:
I should have been more clear....I have solar for the house batteries, and I actually will run the fridge on propane. I am providing some 'in a pinch' housing for a friend, hope it is only a couple of months.

That is not exactly what I would call storage.

As long as the person understands the limitations of an RV and a 15a power supply I doubt you will have any issues.

[turbojimmy]

SoundGuy wrote:
and rarely will any so-called "1500 watt" heater actually pull anywhere near that much

This statement got me wondering so I measured the draw from my Lasko 1500-watt space heater. It's actually drawing 1680 watts or a little over 14 amps @ 115 volts.

[DrewE]

turbojimmy wrote:

I've never used the fridge for more than a few days on propane so I don't know how much it uses. Since it will be occupied your friend can keep an eye on it. Heating with propane would be super inefficient long-term but it sounds like you're aware of that.

The fridge does not use a lot of propane. My rough rule of thumb is a pound a day, but in practice it's often rather less than that, depending a lot on the size of the fridge and the ambient temperature and how often the door is opened, etc. The water heater and especially furnace if used much will consume a fair bit more propane than the fridge will.

[turbojimmy]

RideSlow wrote:
I should have been more clear....I have solar for the house batteries, and I actually will run the fridge on propane. I am providing some 'in a pinch' housing for a friend, hope it is only a couple of months.

Cool - propane will save you a few amps.

I've never used the fridge for more than a few days on propane so I don't know how much it uses. Since it will be occupied your friend can keep an eye on it. Heating with propane would be super inefficient long-term but it sounds like you're aware of that.

Good luck to you and your friend. Sounds like you have a plan.

[RideSlow]

turbojimmy wrote:

garyemunson wrote:
Fridge AND heater will be too much for a run of the mill 110 volt outlet. A heater will max out the power by itself, especially if you need to use any extension cord at all.

Yeah it's going to be on the edge. If it's an RV-type fridge, the heating element probably draws 300-325 watts (let's call it 3 amps). Typical space heater is 1,500 watts (let's call that 13 amps). So 16 amps on what could be a 15 amp circuit. In my case, my breaker panel is on the opposite side of my house from my 20 amp receptacle. It's about 75-feet of 12-gauge wire to get to the receptacle. I then have a 100-foot 14-gauge extension cord to get to the rig. I can't run the A/C or a space heater when it's parked out there (well I can but the cords get warm and the A/C will barely run). Voltage is mid/low 90-volts at the receptacles inside the RV after all that cabling. If I move it close to the house and plug the shore cord directly into the receptacle, I can run both the the A/C or heater and the fridge (300 Watt element). But I know it's on the edge.

It sounds like the OP wants to do this for long-term storage so I'd say running the fridge and/or heat on propane is not an option.

I should have been more clear....I have solar for the house batteries, and I actually will run the fridge on propane. I am providing some 'in a pinch' housing for a friend, hope it is only a couple of months.

[RideSlow]

2oldman wrote:
I'd be careful with the heater. Babysit it for a while to make sure your wiring is up to the task.

Absolutely!

[RideSlow]

Old-Biscuit wrote:
By '110V' take it you mean 15A/20A standard outlet


Adapter and shore cord.

Run fridge on propane so the available amps can be used for heater and converter to maintain battery

Trailer needs to be level...or turn fridge OFF

Yes sir, thank you!

[2oldman]

OP is in the PNW. I found a heater to be effective at controlling condensation.

[time2roll]

Set the heater on a lower setting of 1000 watts or less.
I would use an adapter to plug in the main cord.

[maillemaker]

If it’s in storage and you think you need a heater, winterize it and forget the heater.

We live in the South, so we use our RV year-round, but only about once a month. The rest of the time it lives in the self-storage lot under cover. We have access to electric (for more money) but I don't bother with it. Every time it goes into storage I disconnect all batteries and dump the fresh water tanks and open all valves. If it is during the winter I pour RV anti-freeze into all drains.

[RJsfishin]

I lived on a borrowed 15 amp circuit in my RV for 5 months, while house being completed. It was hot, A/C ran everyday, along w/ fridge. WH was the only thing on propane. Tripped the breaker twice when accidently hit the micro w/ A/C on.
Converter idling on full charge,.....no problems.

[rhagfo]

I know some like running the refer during storage (usually at home), but portable electric heater would scare me, too much could go wrong.

[wildtoad]

If it’s in storage and you think you need a heater, winterize it and forget the heater. Your call as to why you want the fridge left on. If you must have a heater consider a 750 watt setting if it has one.