โApr-26-2018 10:14 PM
โApr-29-2018 08:39 PM
time2roll wrote:RideSlow wrote:That is not exactly what I would call storage.
I should have been more clear....I have solar for the house batteries, and I actually will run the fridge on propane. I am providing some 'in a pinch' housing for a friend, hope it is only a couple of months.
As long as the person understands the limitations of an RV and a 15a power supply I doubt you will have any issues.
โApr-28-2018 11:06 AM
RideSlow wrote:That is not exactly what I would call storage.
I should have been more clear....I have solar for the house batteries, and I actually will run the fridge on propane. I am providing some 'in a pinch' housing for a friend, hope it is only a couple of months.
โApr-28-2018 08:47 AM
SoundGuy wrote:
and rarely will any so-called "1500 watt" heater actually pull anywhere near that much
โApr-27-2018 09:56 AM
turbojimmy wrote:
I've never used the fridge for more than a few days on propane so I don't know how much it uses. Since it will be occupied your friend can keep an eye on it. Heating with propane would be super inefficient long-term but it sounds like you're aware of that.
โApr-27-2018 09:23 AM
RideSlow wrote:
I should have been more clear....I have solar for the house batteries, and I actually will run the fridge on propane. I am providing some 'in a pinch' housing for a friend, hope it is only a couple of months.
โApr-27-2018 09:16 AM
turbojimmy wrote:garyemunson wrote:
Fridge AND heater will be too much for a run of the mill 110 volt outlet. A heater will max out the power by itself, especially if you need to use any extension cord at all.
Yeah it's going to be on the edge. If it's an RV-type fridge, the heating element probably draws 300-325 watts (let's call it 3 amps). Typical space heater is 1,500 watts (let's call that 13 amps). So 16 amps on what could be a 15 amp circuit. In my case, my breaker panel is on the opposite side of my house from my 20 amp receptacle. It's about 75-feet of 12-gauge wire to get to the receptacle. I then have a 100-foot 14-gauge extension cord to get to the rig. I can't run the A/C or a space heater when it's parked out there (well I can but the cords get warm and the A/C will barely run). Voltage is mid/low 90-volts at the receptacles inside the RV after all that cabling. If I move it close to the house and plug the shore cord directly into the receptacle, I can run both the the A/C or heater and the fridge (300 Watt element). But I know it's on the edge.
It sounds like the OP wants to do this for long-term storage so I'd say running the fridge and/or heat on propane is not an option.
โApr-27-2018 09:13 AM
2oldman wrote:
I'd be careful with the heater. Babysit it for a while to make sure your wiring is up to the task.
โApr-27-2018 09:12 AM
Old-Biscuit wrote:
By '110V' take it you mean 15A/20A standard outlet
Adapter and shore cord.
Run fridge on propane so the available amps can be used for heater and converter to maintain battery
Trailer needs to be level...or turn fridge OFF
โApr-27-2018 08:40 AM
โApr-27-2018 07:46 AM
โApr-27-2018 06:14 AM
If itโs in storage and you think you need a heater, winterize it and forget the heater.
โApr-27-2018 05:54 AM
โApr-27-2018 05:50 AM
โApr-27-2018 05:49 AM