Trailer storage, on 110v.

[RideSlow]

Have to move the trailer to a spot where I will not be able to plug in my 30 amp cord. I will have 110 available. I will have the fridge running, and possible a portable heater. Not sure if I should run the 110 inside on a power strip, or if it will be OK to use an adapter and run it thru the shore plug. Thoughts or suggestions please.

[Dave_H_M]

Your title says storage. Maybe you should consider not having stuff on while in storage. Mine has the batt disconnected via a self installed cut off and I never run my frige when not in use. Just a thought.

But it is good that you got a response that was not just a wag from the Soundguy.

[troubledwaters]

I think you would be better off running the RV furnace and the frig (both on gas). It will use less amps. Because if you pop the circuit breaker due to an overload while you're gone for a few days, bad things could result.

[SoundGuy]

Nominal source voltage in N America is 120 vac +/- 5%, not 110, not 115, not 117. A gas absorption fridge in the electric mode will draw no more than 3 amps @ 120 vac, a true 1500 watt heater ~ 12.5 amps @ 120 vac. In reality, the fridge will cycle so the heating element cycles on/off as required, and rarely will any so-called "1500 watt" heater actually pull anywhere near that much. I can easily run my fridge and an electric heater on a standard 15 amp receptacle in my workshop by simply plugging the trailer's main service cable into it BUT the key is I've measured each electric heater I own with a Kill-a-Watt meter and know what each of them draws on each setting, the result being total draw is always well below 15 amps. As long as the battery is properly charged and the converter is therefore only idling there's no reason one can't run the fridge in the electric mode and heat the interior of the camper with an electric heater using a 15 amp 120 vac source.

[turbojimmy]

garyemunson wrote:
Fridge AND heater will be too much for a run of the mill 110 volt outlet. A heater will max out the power by itself, especially if you need to use any extension cord at all.

Yeah it's going to be on the edge. If it's an RV-type fridge, the heating element probably draws 300-325 watts (let's call it 3 amps). Typical space heater is 1,500 watts (let's call that 13 amps). So 16 amps on what could be a 15 amp circuit. In my case, my breaker panel is on the opposite side of my house from my 20 amp receptacle. It's about 75-feet of 12-gauge wire to get to the receptacle. I then have a 100-foot 14-gauge extension cord to get to the rig. I can't run the A/C or a space heater when it's parked out there (well I can but the cords get warm and the A/C will barely run). Voltage is mid/low 90-volts at the receptacles inside the RV after all that cabling. If I move it close to the house and plug the shore cord directly into the receptacle, I can run both the the A/C or heater and the fridge (300 Watt element). But I know it's on the edge.

It sounds like the OP wants to do this for long-term storage so I'd say running the fridge and/or heat on propane is not an option.

[garyemunson]

Fridge AND heater will be too much for a run of the mill 110 volt outlet. A heater will max out the power by itself, especially if you need to use any extension cord at all.

[Old-Biscuit]

By '110V' take it you mean 15A/20A standard outlet


Adapter and shore cord.

Run fridge on propane so the available amps can be used for heater and converter to maintain battery

Trailer needs to be level...or turn fridge OFF

[2oldman]

I'd be careful with the heater. Babysit it for a while to make sure your wiring is up to the task.

[Mandalay_Parr]

Use the adapter and your shore plug.