On your year you will have 4 solenoids that the 4 jack Hoses connect to. EACH Solenoid has a metal T handle for manual release. The 2 center solenoids are the front jacks and the 2 outer solenoids are the rear jacks. There is a label on the wire connection at each solenoid that will have RR RF LR LF. To make it easy, OPEN all four T handles and activate the jacks. Have someone inside activating and you be outside looking at all 4 Jacks. IF all 4 start to extend( all at once), then the solenoid is NOT stuck. Once you stop the Pump, the jacks will fully retract, so you have to have the pump activated long enough for all 4 to try to extend. Once you have determined WHICH of the 2 solenoids are for the inop jacks, and you state the fuses for those solenoids are good, then you want to test for 12 volts and Ground at the 2 wire plug when you activate the Pump. IF you have 12 volts at the solenoid, the solenoid is burnt out and must be replaced. Another way to test is to swap the 2 wire quick connect at the 2 center solenoids. That will cause the RF power to activate the LF solenoid and the LF to activate the RF. The usual cause of a bad/burnt out HWH solenoid is one or both of the inop jacks did not fully retract and the Red down light stayed ON and after 15 to 20 minutes of continual 12 volts to the solenoid it overheated and burned out. When a Jack Down light stays ON, the system keeps power to that solenoid until the down light goes out. These solenoids are MOMENTARY solenoids and should NOT have 12 volts more than 10 minutes. The spec for FULL retraction is 2 to 4 minutes per jack. This link is the Service manual for your system. Doug
Page 12 shows which solenoid is which
http://www.hwhcorp.com/ml13514.pdf
