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Un winterzing...

swimmer_spe
Explorer
Explorer
It is winter. It has hit -40C. I am happy that my water lines were filled with plumbing antifreeze.

... Soon, it will be spring and I will be using my trailer again.

So, what do I do to un winterize it.
19 REPLIES 19

swimmer_spe
Explorer
Explorer
mikestock wrote:
Beverley&Ken wrote:
One little addition, leave the water heater in the bypass position until all the pink is flushed out.

Ken


And don't forget to put let water in the water heater before turning on the electric element. Did it wrong this year for the second time in 20 years. But they cost just under $10 at Lowes.

I winterize with air, set my compressor to 35psi and have never had any issues.


I set mine on 60 psi and never had a problem.

If you use the pink stuff don't let it get into your ice maker or, as previously stated, your water heater. It's hard to clear it out.


HW heater was bypassed. I don't have an ice maker.

mikestock
Explorer
Explorer
Beverley&Ken wrote:
One little addition, leave the water heater in the bypass position until all the pink is flushed out.

Ken


And don't forget to put let water in the water heater before turning on the electric element. Did it wrong this year for the second time in 20 years. But they cost just under $10 at Lowes.

I winterize with air, set my compressor to 35psi and have never had any issues.


I set mine on 60 psi and never had a problem.

If you use the pink stuff don't let it get into your ice maker or, as previously stated, your water heater. It's hard to clear it out.

RDMueller
Explorer
Explorer
When they say someone using air is not covered under warranty, it may be that they are referring to damage caused by winterizing with air, i.e. someone set the air compressor to 180psi and destroyed all the plumbing in the RV. I winterize with air, set my compressor to 35psi and have never had any issues. Not sure how that could/would affect the warranty.
Rob and Julie
2015 Forest River Wildwood 28DBUD
2001 Dodge Ram 2500, 24V Cummins 5.9

JaxDad
Explorer III
Explorer III
swimmer_spe wrote:
JaxDad wrote:
swimmer_spe wrote:
JaxDad wrote:
It’s hit -40 a couple of nights down here too.

I’ve un-winterized and re-winterized my C class m/h 3 times so far this winter, within a week I’ll be un-winterizing my class A m/h for a few weeks also.

The above method sounds a lot more complicated and time consuming than my method.

I hook up the water line and open the taps, it just takes a few seconds to flush the all air I used to ‘winterize’ my unit out of the lines. No sterilization required, no bad taste or smell left afterwards.


Hello from up the highway...

I have antifreeze, not air in my lines.


That was my neighbour, no antifreeze means no time & hassle getting it back out either.

I’ve heard that ‘no warranty’ BS lots of times before, but start with if the person saying that isn’t the person who provides the warranty, their opinion is meaningless.


I trust these guys and I plan on buying an new one from them in the future.


I may not have been clear enough, freeze damage is NEVER covered by warranty, so why would they say blowing lines isn’t covered by warranty?

Freeze damage covered by improper use of antifreeze wouldn’t be covered either.

MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Explorer
As an aside, adding a quarter-cup of genuine vanilla to the last freshwater tank fill eliminates subtle odors and tastes.

swimmer_spe
Explorer
Explorer
JaxDad wrote:
swimmer_spe wrote:
JaxDad wrote:
It’s hit -40 a couple of nights down here too.

I’ve un-winterized and re-winterized my C class m/h 3 times so far this winter, within a week I’ll be un-winterizing my class A m/h for a few weeks also.

The above method sounds a lot more complicated and time consuming than my method.

I hook up the water line and open the taps, it just takes a few seconds to flush the all air I used to ‘winterize’ my unit out of the lines. No sterilization required, no bad taste or smell left afterwards.


Hello from up the highway...

I have antifreeze, not air in my lines.


That was my neighbour, no antifreeze means no time & hassle getting it back out either.

I’ve heard that ‘no warranty’ BS lots of times before, but start with if the person saying that isn’t the person who provides the warranty, their opinion is meaningless.


I trust these guys and I plan on buying an new one from them in the future.

JaxDad
Explorer III
Explorer III
swimmer_spe wrote:
JaxDad wrote:
It’s hit -40 a couple of nights down here too.

I’ve un-winterized and re-winterized my C class m/h 3 times so far this winter, within a week I’ll be un-winterizing my class A m/h for a few weeks also.

The above method sounds a lot more complicated and time consuming than my method.

I hook up the water line and open the taps, it just takes a few seconds to flush the all air I used to ‘winterize’ my unit out of the lines. No sterilization required, no bad taste or smell left afterwards.


Hello from up the highway...

I have antifreeze, not air in my lines.


That was my neighbour, no antifreeze means no time & hassle getting it back out either.

I’ve heard that ‘no warranty’ BS lots of times before, but start with if the person saying that isn’t the person who provides the warranty, their opinion is meaningless.

swimmer_spe
Explorer
Explorer
wa8yxm wrote:
The De-winterizing suggestions above I won't address.

I will suggest a different "Anti-Freeze" however.. AIR. now it is indeed possible for Air to freeze (you don't want to know the freezing point) but if it ever does you won't be worried about your RV.

I like to open all valves including low points and blow gabriel blow.. I use a six gallon compressor with a pressure regulator set to 50-55 PSI, blow till the thing drops off then let the compressor recharge, like 5-10 times till I stop getting water or hearing sputter.. No problems doing it that way

Had a problem the one year I used pink stuff.


Although my trailer is not under warantee, the local trailer service shop says that if someone uses air, it is not covered.

wa8yxm
Explorer III
Explorer III
The De-winterizing suggestions above I won't address.

I will suggest a different "Anti-Freeze" however.. AIR. now it is indeed possible for Air to freeze (you don't want to know the freezing point) but if it ever does you won't be worried about your RV.

I like to open all valves including low points and blow gabriel blow.. I use a six gallon compressor with a pressure regulator set to 50-55 PSI, blow till the thing drops off then let the compressor recharge, like 5-10 times till I stop getting water or hearing sputter.. No problems doing it that way

Had a problem the one year I used pink stuff.
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times

swimmer_spe
Explorer
Explorer
BarneyS wrote:
Moved to Tech Issues forum from DIY.


Thank you. I never know which is the best place for all these types of questions. It is both a DIY and a Tech Issue

BarneyS
Explorer III
Explorer III
Moved to Tech Issues forum from DIY.
2004 Sunnybrook Titan 30FKS TT
Hensley "Arrow" 1400# hitch (Sold)
Not towing now.
Former tow vehicles were 2016 Ram 2500 CTD, 2002 Ford F250, 7.3 PSD, 1997 Ram 2500 5.9 gas engine

ScottG
Nomad
Nomad
JaxDad wrote:
It’s hit -40 a couple of nights down here too.

I’ve un-winterized and re-winterized my C class m/h 3 times so far this winter, within a week I’ll be un-winterizing my class A m/h for a few weeks also.

The above method sounds a lot more complicated and time consuming than my method.

I hook up the water line and open the taps, it just takes a few seconds to flush the all air I used to ‘winterize’ my unit out of the lines. No sterilization required, no bad taste or smell left afterwards.


I stopped using AF years ago. So much more hassle than just blowing lines out.
I will still sterilize though. I don't think using air has any impact on keeping the system clean.

FWIW, for anyone who used bleach to sterilize; after your done and you drain the tank, put a few ounces of hydrogen peroxide (perfectly safe) in the fresh water tank when refilling and then run it through the lines.
It will KILL any remaining bleach on contact and you won't have to keep flushing.

swimmer_spe
Explorer
Explorer
JaxDad wrote:
It’s hit -40 a couple of nights down here too.

I’ve un-winterized and re-winterized my C class m/h 3 times so far this winter, within a week I’ll be un-winterizing my class A m/h for a few weeks also.

The above method sounds a lot more complicated and time consuming than my method.

I hook up the water line and open the taps, it just takes a few seconds to flush the all air I used to ‘winterize’ my unit out of the lines. No sterilization required, no bad taste or smell left afterwards.


Hello from up the highway...

I have antifreeze, not air in my lines.

Johno02
Explorer
Explorer
At our house, where the rig is parked, I just flush with water from the tap. After talking with one of the techs at the local water system, he said that with the amount of chlorine that is used to sanitize our water system, it was probably as good or better than adding beach and then having to flush that out of the system. So far, after 14 or so years, we have had no problems.
Noel and Betty Johnson (and Harry)

2005 GulfStream Ultra Supreme, 1 Old grouch, 1 wonderful wife, and two silly poodles.