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Understanding solar

GATJcampers
Explorer
Explorer
I am trying out solar for the first time. I have a toy hauler with 2 brand new 6 volt batteries wired in series. I got a 100 watt solar panel with a 11 amp charge controller that cuts in at 13v and cuts out at 14.2v.I hooked it up and my readings confuse me. Out of the panel I read 20.2 volts then out of the controller I read the same 20.2 volts but at the batteries I read from 12.7 - 13 volts. Don't understand why. There absolutely no load on the trailer at all, could that be why? Shouldn't the volts be between the cut-in and cut-out voltage? I boondock the majority of the time so I want to get the most out of it. Any insight or knowledge you can share would be great. Electrical is my worst topic so break it down, it won't insult me. Thanks in advance.
21 REPLIES 21

CA_Traveler
Explorer III
Explorer III
He posted 20V at the controller output and 13V at the batteries. If he's measuring the same set of wires on both ends then the wiring is faulty. Miswiring could also produce strange results.
2009 Holiday Rambler 42' Scepter with ISL 400 Cummins
750 Watts Solar Morningstar MPPT 60 Controller
2014 Grand Cherokee Overland

Bob

Lwiddis
Explorer II
Explorer II
Did you do an energy survey...actual AH use or desired AH use...before you bought anything? Otherwise you’re stabbing in the dark with your money and time. An 11 amp controller isn’t very useful. Start over with the survey. Few boondockers have only one 100 watt panel.
Winnebago 2101DS TT & 2022 Chevy Silverado 1500 LTZ Z71, WindyNation 300 watt solar-Lossigy 200 AH Lithium battery. Prefer boondocking, USFS, COE, BLM, NPS, TVA, state camps. Bicyclist. 14 yr. Army -11B40 then 11A - (MOS 1542 & 1560) IOBC & IOAC grad

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
If the controller output is connected to the batteries the voltage should be about the same.
Check your connections.

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
You have mixed up your wiring IMO. I disagree with above idea that your solar set is junk, just because you can buy better ones.

Your panel when disconnected and aimed at the sun will have around 20v at the pigtails

If you connect the controller to the battery and then the controller to the panel aimed at the sun, you will now see battery voltage 13-15 whatever it is at the time at the panel and at the controller "input".

Your situation appears to be that the controller is on the panel and not the battery. You might even have the panel wired into the "battery" connections instead of the "array" connections. Do not use the "load" connections at all (if any in that controller)
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.

CA_Traveler
Explorer III
Explorer III
Sounds like a open wire or fuse from the controller to the batteries.

Measure the amps likely 0A.
2009 Holiday Rambler 42' Scepter with ISL 400 Cummins
750 Watts Solar Morningstar MPPT 60 Controller
2014 Grand Cherokee Overland

Bob

grizzzman
Explorer
Explorer
GATJcampers wrote:
I am trying out solar for the first time. I have a toy hauler with 2 brand new 6 volt batteries wired in series. I got a 100 watt solar panel with a 11 amp charge controller that cuts in at 13v and cuts out at 14.2v.I hooked it up and my readings confuse me. Out of the panel I read 20.2 volts then out of the controller I read the same 20.2 volts but at the batteries I read from 12.7 - 13 volts. Don't understand why. There absolutely no load on the trailer at all, could that be why? Shouldn't the volts be between the cut-in and cut-out voltage? I boondock the majority of the time so I want to get the most out of it. Any insight or knowledge you can share would be great. Electrical is my worst topic so break it down, it won't insult me. Thanks in advance.


At best around noon you "may" never see over 5 amps output. If you are using more then battery voltage may never go higher. The battery decides output voltage when the battery is low. The charge controller is garbage.
Do your homework and buy a good controller.
Good luck with your adventure!
2019 Ford F150 EcoBoost SuperCrew
2016 Rockwood Mini Lite 2504S. TM2030 SC2030
640 Watts Solar. Costco CG2 208 AH and Lifepo4 3P4S 150 AH Hybrid. ElectroDacus. Renolagy DC to DC charger. 2000 Watt Inverter.
Boondocking is my Deal

pianotuna
Nomad III
Nomad III
It sounds as if you are using a PWM controller with a high voltage panel. To do that correctly an MPPT controller needs to be used.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.