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Unique Off-Grid Propane Fridge - Will not run on propane.

WildernessTalul
Explorer
Explorer
Add me to the list of many people whom cannot get their propane fridge to work. I have a Unique brand propane fridge (1 Year Old) that is suppose to be able to run on electricity, solar power or propane. At this point I am running it on my generator... ugh

Issues with propane:

I do not know anything of propane fridges so bare with me. I just moved into this place with this fridge and it has not worked much since I moved in. The certified propane guy came to look at it and he replaced the thermal coupler. The fridge worked perfect for maybe three days and then it would be out. I would relight and it would run for 12 hours and then out. Then I would try maybe 10 times, it would relight then it would be out 1 hour later. Until the point if it not lighting agian. Propane guy came out once again and replaced the thermal coupler once again. Then it ran for about a week and then the same thing. Died every 12 hours then every hour and then I could not get it lit again. I have been reading a lot online and I replaced all batteries (that I seen). Theres one AAA in the front and four AA in the back. They were all dead. I was able to get the fridge lit after replacing but then went out again and now nothing. I thought maybe the wind was blowing out the flame but that does not seem to be the issue.

Since now running the fridge off of the generator, I put a digital thermometer inside the freezer to see what temp it gets to. It will not go below -2c. It has been running for maybe 8 hours. I also tried this on solar power and still the freezer will not go below -2. And is not keeping anything frozen. When the fridge was working on propane and the dial is above 3 inside of my fridge was starting to freeze. I thought maybe the electricity wasnt working due to my house being 12 volt. I put an extention cord directly to my 4000w genny and still will not drop below -2.

I called the propane guy again, fridge is on warranty but propane guy hates working on them (I live in a remote area and one person has many different jobs) so takes weeks to come over to look but not impressed to even take a guess of whats wrong with it. Meanwhile I am dealing with no fridge or freezer. Trying to find someone to knows a lot about these fridges and could possibly help me pass some info onto the fridge guy so this thing gets fixed.

Any help appreciated! Sorry for my long winded post. Cheers.
13 REPLIES 13

Joe417
Explorer
Explorer
You may have already checked this, but Unique has a good troubleshooting guide.

These are the same issues older RV fridges had/have. You just aren't plagued with 12V issues.

Paste the link below into your browser.

http://uniqueoffgrid.com/troubleshooting/Top%20Ten%20Troubleshooting%20Tips%20v.pdf
Joe and Evelyn

jarata1
Explorer
Explorer
Is the trailer level?

WildernessTalul
Explorer
Explorer
Rvpapa wrote:
If you have the CO detector hookup that would be the first place to look. Used to have a small Unique freezer and ended up removing/bypassing the setup. worked perfectly after that.
Art.


Yes I also think it could be the built in CO detector. I know if I am using the propane stove the fridge goes off thinking there's too much CO in the air, its way too sensitive.. Could be an air vent problem on the intake maybe even. Thanks

darsben1
Explorer
Explorer
I would call unique or at least email them for their input


2245 Wyecroft Road
Oakville, ON, Canada
L6L 5L7


info@uniqueoffgrid.com

905-827-6154
1-877-427-2266
Traveling with my best friend, my wife in a 1990 Southwind

Rvpapa
Explorer
Explorer
If you have the CO detector hookup that would be the first place to look. Used to have a small Unique freezer and ended up removing/bypassing the setup. worked perfectly after that.
Art.

dougrainer
Nomad
Nomad
1. I do not understand what you mean by running on Solar Power. The refer is operated by either 120 volts or LP gas
2. The batteries are ONLY for powering the LP lighting system.
3. You have a NON RV Absorbsion refer. But, it functions just like an RV refer.
4. So, if it will not cool, then it needs to have ALL parameters checked out. If it will not stay lit on LP or it fails to cool correctly on LP, the LP PRESSURE is the FIRST thing to check.
5. It takes 24 hours for this type refer to get to maximum low temp.
6. Just like RV refers, the rear ventilation is critical.
7. You are on the wrong forum for this problem. This is an RV Forum and NOT an forum for residential Absorbsion refers. Your Brand and install are not how RV refers are used. You need to find an "off the grid" type forum for your problem. You refer/brand is NOT used in RV's. Doug

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
Yea I would call the landlord and ask for a new one.
That is what my tenants do. I get really bored fixing stuff and meeting service people.

WildernessTalul
Explorer
Explorer
smkettner wrote:
***Link Removed***

Does the flame look right? Did you install NEW batteries?


Yes installed brand new batteries, even bought the expensive ones. I cannot see the flame. There are way too many safety features on this fridge, I cannot get at anything without taking tons of things apart. I also read the manual yes.

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad

WildernessTalul
Explorer
Explorer
Golden_HVAC wrote:
Well you could learn to change your own thermocouplers. They only take a couple of minutes. As long as the flame is heating it correctly, it should work right for years. Think about the water heater in a grid house. It will have one thermocoupler for 20+ years!

Think about a wall heater or floor furnace. I have worked on those with a 750 mV thermocouple that is 10 - 25 years old, and they still work great.

It might be the thermocouple is not tight, or not in the correct position within the pilot flame. They only make a fraction of a volt, so if the connection is loose, then it will not transfer the whole 0.085 volts, and the flame will go out.

Also I was working on a buddy's refiregerator in a A-frame trailer. I cleaned out what looked like a white filter in between the pilot and the propane line. Turns out it sort of fell apart in my fingers, then the flame worked right afterwards. I think it was a spider nest. Spiders like the smell of propane, and tend to build a nest near a source of food for their young, normally a pile of dung. But propane has a similar smell to animal dung (Poo). So spiders tend to build a nest in un-lit water heaters and furnaces, and refrigerators.

Good luck solving your problem. My guess is the pilot flame is not large enough, and increasing the pressure to the pilot flame might solve the problem.

Also check your data plate. Chances are that the 120 volt electric element is close to 250 - 300 watts, or 770 - 1000 Btu's per hour. Most gas flames are in the 2,000 - 2,500 BtuH rating, or about twice the heating capacity as the electric elements. So you will get twice the cooling effect on gas than electric.

Hopefully you will get it running right soon!

Fred.


Thanks for your info. The only issue with working on it myself (I am more than happy to!) is that its under warrenty, life time warranty and its void when someone works on the fridge if they are not certified in propane. Also I am renting this house so it is not even my fridge. Struggling to deal with this on my own. It is quite dusty behind the fridge I will clean it all up and see if that helps. Thanks

WildernessTalul
Explorer
Explorer
Jframpey wrote:
We can only guess until we know the manufacturer and model # of the fridge.


Manufacturer: Unique
Model #: UGP - 10

Golden_HVAC
Explorer
Explorer
Well you could learn to change your own thermocouplers. They only take a couple of minutes. As long as the flame is heating it correctly, it should work right for years. Think about the water heater in a grid house. It will have one thermocoupler for 20+ years!

Think about a wall heater or floor furnace. I have worked on those with a 750 mV thermocouple that is 10 - 25 years old, and they still work great.

It might be the thermocouple is not tight, or not in the correct position within the pilot flame. They only make a fraction of a volt, so if the connection is loose, then it will not transfer the whole 0.085 volts, and the flame will go out.

Also I was working on a buddy's refiregerator in a A-frame trailer. I cleaned out what looked like a white filter in between the pilot and the propane line. Turns out it sort of fell apart in my fingers, then the flame worked right afterwards. I think it was a spider nest. Spiders like the smell of propane, and tend to build a nest near a source of food for their young, normally a pile of dung. But propane has a similar smell to animal dung (Poo). So spiders tend to build a nest in un-lit water heaters and furnaces, and refrigerators.

Good luck solving your problem. My guess is the pilot flame is not large enough, and increasing the pressure to the pilot flame might solve the problem.

Also check your data plate. Chances are that the 120 volt electric element is close to 250 - 300 watts, or 770 - 1000 Btu's per hour. Most gas flames are in the 2,000 - 2,500 BtuH rating, or about twice the heating capacity as the electric elements. So you will get twice the cooling effect on gas than electric.

Hopefully you will get it running right soon!

Fred.
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Jframpey
Explorer
Explorer
We can only guess until we know the manufacturer and model # of the fridge.