Wedgewood oven problem

[nlol]

Model RV1735SSPS mfg 2013

Installed 2015 Northern Lite TC

I purchased camper (virtually unused) 2019

Oven doesn't work. It appears the oven has never worked. Pilot and main burner do not light. Stove top burners work properly.

Trouble shooting: Oven control is fed gas through the same manifold that feeds stove top burners. Stove top burners work properly. Loosening the screw that holds the oven control unit in the manifold produces a leak that is easily lighted - so, LPG is getting to oven control unit. There are 3 lines from controller to oven: one line feeds the main burner; there are two lines to the pilot assembly - one copper, one aluminum. (The copper line is neatly pinched in a way that makes it look intended. Two lines makes no sense to me)

Loosening the control unit outlet lines and turning/depressing the oven control knob in the pilot, and all other positions, produces no gas at the controller's output ports. There is no gas at any of the 3 output ports. I've ensured the oven control is fully depressed and I've warmed the pilot light thermo-couple with a torch and get zero gas flow.

The lack of gas anywhere seemed strange and unlikely to me, however, a repair, or new control unit, appeared to be the obvious solution. I bought and installed a new control unit, hoping to repair and keep the old unit as a spare. The new control unit gives the same result as the original control unit; gas at the controller inlet connection, but no gas at the controller outlet ports no matter what control knob manipulation is done.

The obvious conclusion is that both control units are bad with the same fault. Unless I hear that this control problem is common, I deem that highly unlikely. That leaves me stumped. So please, can anyone enlighten me on what is wrong? Is there a known repair for this control unit problem?

[nlol]

Took me awhile to figure out - I could see through the orifice, but no gas flowed - no idea what was in there, but an hour soak in solvent solved the problem.

[wa8yxm]

That (Clogged pilot jest) is very very very very common.

There is a spider that loves to nest in propane or natural gas lines... And.
Well. it clogs the jet.

[nlol]

My apology. I replied earlier with thanks, and note the problem is fixed. It was a clogged orifice in the pilot light. It appears that post didn't get posted. My error - I made a lot of them diagnosing this one. Thanks for the help

[nlol]

Again, Thanks,

I found the problem. The thermostat/control is good. The problem is the pilot light jet was clogged. Thanks. I spend over 4 months each summer in Yukon Territory. Having the oven working will make being inside almost as much fun as being outside.

[nlol]

First, thanks everyone for the help.

Second, Old-Biscuit - Thanks for the service manual. I had only "Literature number 52229' that came with the camper. It left a lot to be desired.

Third, a glance at the service manual shows I was wrong about something. I thought there are 3 gas lines and one thermocouple coming from the control. The lines 'look' like that but the service manual, and a little thought, reveal that to be wrong. There are 2 gas lines and 2 thermo lines - except it sure looked like 3 and 1 when I swapped control units.

4) I'll get back on it tomorrow.

[wa8yxm]

There are 3 lines to the burner area
Large line (Main burner gas line)
Smaller line (Pilot)
Smallest (Thermocouple this is actually a coax cable in most cases (has a wire inside the tube)

[dougrainer]

The "copper" line should be the Thermocoupler sensor tube and does indeed have a pinched look. Doug

[dougrainer]

Remove the Oven Plastic knob. In the hole recess, jam some paper inside to fill about 1/4 inch. This will allow the Knob to PUSH the metal shaft farther IN to engage the oven valve to open the flow for the Pilot tube. This is a common problem and installing the paper shim in the Knob is a standard fix. Let us know if this fixes the problem. Doug

[nlol]

Drew,

Thanks. The knob itself indicates it should be held in to light the pilot. That is what I'm doing - doing it in the indicated position. I think I know what I'm doing - not the only appliance I have that works that way - but user error seems most likely. How can I add pictures here - simply copy and past?

[Old-Biscuit]

Oven Thermostat (oven control) with the 3 lines should also have a wire coming from it

One line is gas to oven burner
One line is for the thermocouple located above pilot assembly
One line is gas to pilot assembly (copper line and should NOT be crimped)
Wire goes to oven thermostat bulb located on back wall of oven

Turning oven knob to 'pilot' position/pushing it in holds magnet in allowing gas flow to pilot assembly. With pilot flame lit the flame should heat up thermocouple within 5-10 seconds and send a millivolt current back to oven control holding magnet in so gas flow will continue when knob is released.
Turn knob to desired temp......thermostat bulb allows gas flow thru oven control to main burner which is ignited by pilot flame.

You stated you LP at the inlet to control but nothing from any of the lines when holding knob in........two different control valves????
Both can't be faulty so are you SURE that oven knob is in 'pilot' position and is going in COMPLETELY???

Turn knob to pilot position........remove knob and then push/hold shaft in fully while someone lights pilot flame.

HERE IS SERVICE MANUAL

[DrewE]

I very much doubt that both the original and replacement control valves are bad.

There are at least a couple of different setups of oven control valves. In one older setup, there are actually two control valves: the thermostatic valve, which the knob attaches to, and a safety valve for the main burner which is located between the thermostatic valve and the burner. In this setup, the pilot when first lit is a very, very tiny flame. When the thermostat is turned to a point that heat is called for, it adds gas to the pilot flame and also supplies gas to the safety valve. A thermostatic bulb at the pilot burner controls the safety valve; when it warms up sufficiently, from the larger pilot flame, the safety valve opens and the main burner lights. Once the desired temperature is reached the thermostatic valve shuts off the gas to the safety valve (and thus the main burner) and lowers the flow of gas to the pilot. The safety valve soon closes when its thermostatic bulb cools sufficiently, and the process repeats as needed. On this setup, it is not necessary to hold the oven knob in when lighting the pilot, but the little tiny flame can be a bit temperamental to get lit.

Another setup uses a thermocouple or similar to make sure the pilot stays lit, and has no separate safety valve. I think this is more common these days. For that, it's necessary to hold the control knob in on the pilot setting when lighting the pilot to have gas flow and keep it held in until the thermocouple warms up enough for it to stay lit. I think generally with this design the pilot flame does not change in size when heat is called for.

Anyhow, I suspect you problem is either operator error (not holding the knob in when lighting the pilot, for instance, or being mistaken about where the actual pilot flame should be on the burner assembly) or a dirty, clogged, or misadjusted pilot burner.