What are the good quality bearings for a TT?

[myredracer]

Timken or SKF are as good as they get? A frame shop told me few years the name of a good one made in Japan but can't remember the name.

This is the first time for me to be ordering bearings and seals for our TT. Do I just need the part number off our axles and go onto the bearing and/or the Alko's website? Do they come as a kit with nut, cotter pin etc?

A bit unclear on the info. on our axle sticker. Says axles are 4400 lbs and are T52D-H9. Alko's website says T52 axles are rated 5K lbs?

[brulaz]

ooops. wrong topic.

[myredracer]

Lynnmor wrote:
The surfaces look pretty normal. The brake lining should be cleaned with chlorinated (not the new enviro-friendly stuff) brake cleaner. You might try the method Mex mentioned.

Thank you!

Pretty soon I'll be whatcha call an "expert" at doing our brakes and bearings. Have spent last 2 days just running all over town trying to source everything including a brass drift I don't have for some reason. Did find some of your recommended Pennzoil bearing grease (1/2 the cost of the Dexter stuff too). Pretty sure next time it will all be much easier... 😉

[Lynnmor]

The surfaces look pretty normal. The brake lining should be cleaned with chlorinated (not the new enviro-friendly stuff) brake cleaner. You might try the method Mex mentioned.

[myredracer]

As has been mentioned a few times, I agree proper and regular maintenance is of prime importance over where the bearings come from. I think, and may be wrong, that the bearing manufacturers are ISO certified? Maybe that is good for tolerances, but not for qulity of the steel?

Since I am redoing the bearings myself, I'd rather go with the known premium quality ones. I can replace all the bearings, repack and re-install for about 1/3 less than the cost of just getting a shop to do a repack and seal replacement, plus I know it will be done properly.

Here's some more pics of the drum and lining. The brake lining has the same dark discoloration in the same location on the other shoe. I *think* the outer drum surface is okay but not sure about the magnet face area. Seems more scored than it should be? The magnet surface is smooth in comparison.

[myredracer]

ktmrfs wrote:


you do have an oddball. normally the alko 4400lb has 10" brakes. From what my good supplier friend told me, the 4400lb alko's use a 5200lb tube, but normally 10" brakes, and an oddball spindle and either a 5 or 6 lug wheel. Bearings and spindle are bigger than the 3500lb but NOT the same as the 5200's which uses the same spindle and bearings as the 6000lb and I believe 7,000lb axles. In that case you have a spindle and bearings capable of handling way more load than they will ever see. That's one advantage to the 5200lb axles.

BTW alko documents do show the PM for the bearings, seals, etc.

so, either you have a 4400lb axle with 5200 brakes or 5200lb axles with 4400lb springs which is a configuration available from Alko.

When I upgraded one trailer from alko 4400lb axles/springs to 5200, their where mulitple spring options, from 4400lb all the way up to 6000lbs. I went with 5200lb springs.

Once you know the bearing number you can compare to alko's list for spindles and verify you have a 5200lb tube AND spindle. I suspect that is the case since normally the 12" brake backing won't fit onto the 4400lb spindle, the bolt pattern is different.

Excellent info, thanks!

I was not able to get hold of the right guy at Alko today. They're under a new name now that they're part of Dexter - Industrial Axle Co. Went to a frame shop that is the local Dexter supplier to the RV dealers around here. They couldn't come up with an answer on the bearings and also said it's an oddball. I'm hoping if I give them the axle serial no. they can tell me exactly what we've got.

Then went back to the industrial bearing supplier I was at yesterday and had the numbers I pulled off the bearings. They had US made Timken bearings in stock on the shelf. Nice find! They could not help with the bearing cups so now I have to get those out to get the number off them. Apparently they come in 2 or 3 different sizes. Maybe I can figure it out by looking at the Alko info. you mention. Is it what shown in this Alko catalogue? Not sure what our "T-52D" designation means over the "T52" that is in the catalogue.

Was not able to find a brand name set of seals and ended up buying a set of generic ones with no markings for now. I thought US made bearings would be nearly impossible to find.

[ktmrfs]

myredracer wrote:

jodeb720 wrote:

As it turns out I ordered two new axles (6000#) not AlKo's to replace my 4400#'s because I can't get parts for the 4400's correctly!

AlKo was bought out by Dexter last year FWIW... I think that's part of the problem.

The learning process continues. Our axles are marked "4400 lb". As you probably discovered, bearing and other part numbers don't exist for 4400 lb axles. Just found out that the rating applies to the weakest part on the assembly, which is the springs. So it's the springs that makes the rating, but the axles are actually 5200 lb ones which explains why the brakes are 12". Now to just verify the correct part numbers for bearings.

Am actually glad to find that we have 5200 lb axles. They are waaay stronger than what would have normally been used on our make and model.

The mud is a little clearer now. :R

you do have an oddball. normally the alko 4400lb has 10" brakes. From what my good supplier friend told me, the 4400lb alko's use a 5200lb tube, but normally 10" brakes, and an oddball spindle and either a 5 or 6 lug wheel. Bearings and spindle are bigger than the 3500lb but NOT the same as the 5200's which uses the same spindle and bearings as the 6000lb and I believe 7,000lb axles. In that case you have a spindle and bearings capable of handling way more load than they will ever see. That's one advantage to the 5200lb axles.

BTW alko documents do show the PM for the bearings, seals, etc.

so, either you have a 4400lb axle with 5200 brakes or 5200lb axles with 4400lb springs which is a configuration available from Alko.

When I upgraded one trailer from alko 4400lb axles/springs to 5200, their where mulitple spring options, from 4400lb all the way up to 6000lbs. I went with 5200lb springs.

Once you know the bearing number you can compare to alko's list for spindles and verify you have a 5200lb tube AND spindle. I suspect that is the case since normally the 12" brake backing won't fit onto the 4400lb spindle, the bolt pattern is different.

[CJW8]

If it is a 5200# axel limited by the springs and you are concerned about better bearings... It probably has Type 42 spindles.
Probably:
• 25580 Inner, LM67048 Outer Bearing
• Capacity of 3,000 lbs. per each
• Fits Dexter 5,200 lbs. thru 7,000 lb. axles
Grease seals sizes vary

[Lynnmor]

That was the NAPA Premium Wheel Bearing Grease. I didn't like the way that the bearings were all but dry as the grease didn't stay put. The photo is of an Al-Ko drum as I was replacing with Dexter.

With the new drums, I changed to Valvoline wheel bearing grease. That too was a disappointment because, just as I completed the four wheels, I found separated oil in the bottom of the tub. I don't know where to go next, even the synthetic grease uses the same soap. I will try to find an old standby, Pennzoil 707L, which always worked well for me, but is no longer widely available.

For your wheel bearings, just pop them out and get the numbers. There are only a few sets commonly used on trailer axles. With 12" drums the only difference may be the seal. China bearings

[myredracer]

jodeb720 wrote:

As it turns out I ordered two new axles (6000#) not AlKo's to replace my 4400#'s because I can't get parts for the 4400's correctly!

AlKo was bought out by Dexter last year FWIW... I think that's part of the problem.

The learning process continues. Our axles are marked "4400 lb". As you probably discovered, bearing and other part numbers don't exist for 4400 lb axles. Just found out that the rating applies to the weakest part on the assembly, which is the springs. So it's the springs that makes the rating, but the axles are actually 5200 lb ones which explains why the brakes are 12". Now to just verify the correct part numbers for bearings.

Am actually glad to find that we have 5200 lb axles. They are waaay stronger than what would have normally been used on our make and model.

The mud is a little clearer now. :R

[MEXICOWANDERER]

I used to think the State of California Sept of Consumer Affairs Bureau of Auto Repair was a pain. But the rampant skulduggery, and even outright fraud is insane in the auto and RV repair industry.

The level of cleverness and aptitude of a good general mechanic down here is amazing. They HAVE TO perform miracles with near nothing. No they cannot work emissions control or ECU control problems correctly. Not even close.

Gabriel age around forty, told me, "I do not care if no one else has success repairing Fantastic Fan motors. Give me that fan and you will have new brushes installed. I will make the brushes myself just like I did with your radiator fan motor".

I wonder if somehow I can get the bearing numbers for the ENDLESS BREEZE fan? I can replace them with NTN LUA bearings, lubed with LE and be good to go for another five years. This fan has thousands of hours on it at high setting. Rather deal with the commutator before it gets spring gouges in it.

[myredracer]

Lynnmor wrote:
Is that some kind of step on the magnet face? A closeup of that and the drum armature would help.

As you know, I replaced the Al-Ko brakes and drums with Dexter, because of considerable grooves in the armature face.

Grooves

The photo doesn't really show how bad it is. There was only about 7000 miles of light use at this point. No way could I trust to do another 10,000 miles this summer.

Will take some more pics today. What grease is that in yours? Looks similar to what the Alko would have initially used in ours.

The magnet face itself is smooth, but the drum surface isn't. Not sure why the drum would get scored unless it's from road dust/dirt? Maybe the magnet face is harder material?

Calling a dealer scumbag is being too nice. The more I learn about them, the worse it seems to get. A previous dealer was bad enough and with all the issues we've had with our KZ dealer now, I'll never ever trust a dealer again to do something correctly or truthfully.

[brulaz]

Lynnmor wrote:
Is that some kind of step on the magnet face? A closeup of that and the drum armature would help.

As you know, I replaced the Al-Ko brakes and drums with Dexter, because of considerable grooves in the armature face.

Grooves

The photo doesn't really show how bad it is. There was only about 7000 miles of light use at this point. No way could I trust to do another 10,000 miles this summer.

You have another photo in that series that does show the step on the magnet face. It's pretty severe. Haven't seen anything like that on my Al-Ko's yet. But definitely something to look out for.

With all this cheap suspension/brake/axle **** on trailers, I'm thinking our next rig might be a motorhome!:)

[Lynnmor]

Is that some kind of step on the magnet face? A closeup of that and the drum armature would help.

As you know, I replaced the Al-Ko brakes and drums with Dexter, because of considerable grooves in the armature face.

Grooves

The photo doesn't really show how bad it is. There was only about 7000 miles of light use at this point. No way could I trust to do another 10,000 miles this summer.

[MEXICOWANDERER]

Professional Way to tell if a stain is oil or grease on a friction surface:

Clean area thoroughly meaning adjacent oil and grease.

Use gloves and goggles

Play a propane torch a across the stain. The lining can withstand an incredible amount of heat.

If it is oil or grease the stain will turn liquid wet and can be wiped off with a rag. Then more liquid appears and more wiping and more and more.

Stop. It is a waste of time as is using brake cleaner. If the oil seems never-ending change the shoes.

If you are lucky a few wipes and no more grease/oil. Don't get carried away with the torch flame. 200-300 F is all it takes. This is a big-rig shop trick and I have used it countless times.

RV shop work quality is scumbag IMHO. Get your drums turned professionally and get the linings "arced" so they wear into and mate with the drum. I use DRI SLIDE to lube brake hardware which must be spotless before reassembly. Dry lube also works wonders on conventional brake hardware surfaces. I used half a can when I did Quicksilver's S Cam air brakes. Does not attract dirt or lining dust.

Hope This Helps