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What's a decent battery charger?

path1
Explorer
Explorer
Over a year ago I asked same question and what was recommended by a couple people, I couldn't get anymore. Model was discontinued. Recommended was a specific model of Schulber or a name close to that.

So I picked up cheap harbor freight special. Hooked it yesterday and no voltage on volt meter between pos and neg clamps. (Second time I needed it) I would assume no voltage between the clamps means its not working? No fuse inside (that I can find) but did find melted plastic that a wire went thru.

The adage of you get what you pay for might come into play here.

What's a good little charger, Home and RV.

Thanks
2003 Majestic 23P... Northwest travel machine
2013 Arctic Fox 25W... Wife "doll house" for longer snowbird trips
2001 "The Mighty Dodge"... tow vehicle for "doll house"
66 REPLIES 66

tplife
Explorer
Explorer
+2 to the Schumacher brand float-chargers. I've got a few and only had one go out over many years, and keep a couple of my AGMs plugged in ($30K Harley-Davidson and Optima Blue-Top AGM) as trickle chargers. Some of them have the higher-amp setting which would provide both a fast charger and a float-charger. As a jumper we use a WAGAN power-dome. After so many years of using the small Schumacher float-chargers without issue, it's obvious from some of the products other folks rely on that we've saved a tidy sum of $pending Green indeed. 🙂

westend
Explorer
Explorer
Path1,
The wheeled Diehard charger with timer I linked to earlier is $99 and probably fulfilled through Sears. I'd suggest you return the Shumacher and get the wheeled Diehard.
FWIW, I have a wheeled Exide charger that has been charging batteries for 20 years. I'm blaming the bigger transformer for it's longevity.
'03 F-250 4x4 CC
'71 Starcraft Wanderstar -- The Cowboy/Hilton

MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Explorer
YEAH BABY! SMART! It's model name is HERO!




Look Ma! No Hands! (or brains). Check the annual kWh consumption of a SMART way to vacuum and the cost of a replacement battery. Smart! Smart! Smart! Think Green! Err..BROWN!

MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Explorer
Señor Kettner, your example is indeed fact. Charge a battery fully and it will hibernate several months <30c. Charge a battery with a Dyson charger and store it several months, then repeat next season. The result is a badly sulfated battery and the Dyson gizmo can not under any circumstances de-sulfate it.

If when charging a battery with a generator, the cells do not bubble lightly, the battery is not fully charged. If a mostly charged battery is taken home and put through a few cycles with a Dyson, it may gain >95% charged status. But that missing 5% is a killer.

This does not matter with lightly used batteries that spend lots of time off-season connected to a charger (not a maintainer! A Charger!). The if's the and's and the butts make for a sorry total of maybe's.

Do it. Charge a battery to 1.265. Then connect it to a maintainer. How many months will it spend glaciating it's way to 1.266 then 1.267, then...? Chemistry does not wait.

Yes, a Zap desulfate button can be pushed a hundred times to hurry the process. Talk about stupid - compare nursemaiding a desulfate button to simply charging until cell electrolyte bubbles slightly.

Once the process is known, a person does not need to monitor cell bubbling. They'll know from gaining practical experience how much charging is needed.

I know my Lifeline will need 3 to 3.25 hours to fully recharge from a voltage level of around 12.50 So with 14.4 volts voltage control limit I set the spring wound timer to a little over three hours. Presto. Perfectly charged battery.

The confused in the midst will scream "I doan wanna twist no stupid dials!" This is a battery charger, not a converter. With a 75% charged battery I can set the timer for TWELVE HOURS and not hurt the battery. Why? This is a charger not a converter.

Amateurs make the mistake of assumption. They read they rationalize and they freak if applying absorbsion charge voltage to a battery is maintained for 4 hours instead of one hour THIS IS A BATTERY CHARGER NOT A CONVERTER! The battery could care less. Hyper meticulous PRECISE voltage and time calculations are an utter waste of time and reveal the advocate is a real greenhorn when it comes to battery charging.

Other spouted nonsense wails a lightly bubbling battery means it is "Boiling!" Again ignorance is being shouted for all to see and read. Careful assumptions, blended with rationalization, and sweetened with wacko shared opinions try to push reality out the window. It is sad.

Mr Kettner is correct. Gross assumptions mean gross battery sales increases.

Next time you become aware of a malfunctioning battery, do an audit: Time spent in diagnostics. Time and money spend to go have the battery tested. Ooooo I forgot to add removal and replacement time. Then time and money spent for shopping for a replacement or maybe arguing with the parts counter. Bad batteries can wipe out a boondocking vacation.

But that doesn't matter, right?

Dyson chargers are Plug N Play! Trumps common sense.

path1
Explorer
Explorer
OP here...

When I posted I never thought this would go on for 3 pages. Guess I'm hard on batteries and chargers. My old Sears charger, a Christmas gift around mid 70's (we believe) worked great. Problem was it did exactly what it was supposed to do. It charged batteries, and it kept charging them until you disconnected it. If I forgot about it, I blew up more than one battery over the years I had it. Options were 6 or 12 volt, and a on/off switch. Next charger of unknown brand had a very short life. I ran over it backing out of garage. Next one was the harbor freight, it was only on it's 2nd or 3rd job and noticed it was taking forever to charge. Put volt meter between the clamps and nothing. Pulled cover and some melted plastic, so called it quits. Posted here for recommendations for new charger. Even called the local Black & Decker "factory support", they were no help.

Driving by Wal-Mart last night and picked up Schumacher model SC11. It is not going to last either IMO. Indicators to me why it won't last. "Fully automatic" "start/stop push button interface" and "microprocessor controlled" But then again maybe it will last. Right on the box it reads..."Since 1947 Schumacher Electric Corp has been leading change and driving performance to exceed it customers expectations" So maybe I won't have any problems:)

Claims to be: 80A engine start 20A boost 6-2A charge for $70.00

Thanks
2003 Majestic 23P... Northwest travel machine
2013 Arctic Fox 25W... Wife "doll house" for longer snowbird trips
2001 "The Mighty Dodge"... tow vehicle for "doll house"

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
Wottya mean my battery is no stinky bueno? I used it three or four time and it's out of warranty?
How long is the warranty?

This sounds like no charger was used. Operator abuse. Not a smart charger issue but rather a no charger issue.

No maintenance, no worky.

Sam_Spade
Explorer
Explorer
full_mosey wrote:
Plus, the 2A setting is harmful if you have a higher concurrent draw as it will NEVER go to float and could lock on at 14+ Volts.


I think the thing is **** but I believe that setting it on 2 will lower that peak voltage to something closer to 13.6...... but it still turns off and on instead of varying the voltage as needed.

On the 2 setting, I suspect that it will be only slightly better than a dumb trickle charger.

I keep mine around for the "start" capability......and incase I need a door stop or boat anchor.
'07 Damon Outlaw 3611
CanAm Spyder in the "trunk"

MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Explorer
And the battery industry is loving it. "Don't need perfect! Just get by!"

Wottya mean my battery is no stinky bueno? I used it three or four time and it's out of warranty?

I guess what really upsets me is my built-in "green factor".

Build it so it lasts...

And if possible build it so it can be fixed or rebuilt...

Human Binks are depleting natural resources by the millions of tons daily. It all goes into the garbage can and ungodly amounts of energy as being used to try and make them recyclable. But then again there is 240-grit toilet paper, shred in the hands, non absorbent paper towels and canned fruit that costs MORE without sugar than it does loaded with diabetes promoter.

I hope aliens come soon, and they turn out to be hostile...

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
"Even if it isn't perfect", would be like having a 5 lb fire extinguisher filled to 8 oz and calling it "Not Perfect". Or a 3-axle motorhome with a 15 gallon gas tank.

Yes a smart charger will replace most of the depleted charge. Unlike a gas tank, batteries are snotty chemical laboratories. They'll sulfate then lattice link the crystals. When that happens you can push the little "Desulfate" button 100,000,000 times and the battery will just laugh at you. There are two remedies: Don't boondock a lot, and put your battery store on speed-dial.
While I agree the typical portable smart charger is not the best to charge a battery and then put the battery in storage. I think the idea is to charge the battery due to some mishap and put the battery back in service to be charged by the normal operating system such as the alternator.

The portable charger is not typically designed to be the primary charging system. If it has battery clamps... that is temporary use only.

More like carrying a few extra jerry cans to get you through a tight spot but not to fill the tank each week.

full_mosey
Explorer
Explorer
path1 wrote:

...
What I did have of Harbor freight was 10/2/50 amp 12 volt.
...


I have one of those. Here is how it works for me.

I raises Volts to 14.7 and then shuts off. That is basically a 'bulk' charge. Next, it shuts off and waits for 12.95V where it restarts and goes back to 14.7. This second stage repeats.

It is OK as a 'bulk' charger and then you disconnect it. I don't let it stay connected as that next ON/OFF stage is no way to maintain a battery. Plus, the 2A setting is harmful if you have a higher concurrent draw as it will NEVER go to float and could lock on at 14+ Volts.

HTH;
John

MEXICOWANDERER
Explorer
Explorer
"Even if it isn't perfect", would be like having a 5 lb fire extinguisher filled to 8 oz and calling it "Not Perfect". Or a 3-axle motorhome with a 15 gallon gas tank.

Yes a smart charger will replace most of the depleted charge. Unlike a gas tank, batteries are snotty chemical laboratories. They'll sulfate then lattice link the crystals. When that happens you can push the little "Desulfate" button 100,000,000 times and the battery will just laugh at you. There are two remedies: Don't boondock a lot, and put your battery store on speed-dial.

Lynnmor
Explorer
Explorer
That VEC1093DBD on eBay went for $160.50 plus $20.00 shipping.

dewey02
Explorer II
Explorer II
landyacht318 wrote:
AStinker- wrote:
MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
If folks are genuinely intetested I could assemble a how-to-do-it article about setting up a Megawatt for Dummies. But not if three days of hard work does not become a "sticky". Don't care if it has my name posted. Something to be mounted in a compartment. Yes, it means running power to the compartment even an extension cord. Complete with German Hunting Handbook grade instructions...and genuine pictures.


I for one would love a "how-to-do-it article about setting up a Megawatt for Dummies." But have no idea how to go about requesting getting it made into a sticky.


The tiny voltage trim pot on these switching power supplies is rated for a rotational life of only 50 cycles.

http://www.bourns.com/products/potentiometers/trimpot-trimming-potentiometers-single-turn/product/33...


Perhaps not an issue for someone who sets it to 14.x and spins the spring wound timer and has no need for a different voltage.

Removing this trim pot and replacing it with wires leading to a higher rotational cycle life more precise potentiometer is hardly rocket science, but does require some soldering skills AND or Disassembly of the unit, whose transistors use the casing as a heatsink, and require reapplication of thermal grease on reassembly.

At maximum output( think depleted battery) they get hot and should employ additional heat removal methods beyond the little sleeve bearing 60mm fan provided with the unit.


Yer speakin' gibberish to someone like me, which is why I prefer a plug and play model, even if it isn't perfect.

landyacht318
Explorer
Explorer
AStinker- wrote:
MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
If folks are genuinely intetested I could assemble a how-to-do-it article about setting up a Megawatt for Dummies. But not if three days of hard work does not become a "sticky". Don't care if it has my name posted. Something to be mounted in a compartment. Yes, it means running power to the compartment even an extension cord. Complete with German Hunting Handbook grade instructions...and genuine pictures.


I for one would love a "how-to-do-it article about setting up a Megawatt for Dummies." But have no idea how to go about requesting getting it made into a sticky.


The tiny voltage trim pot on these switching power supplies is rated for a rotational life of only 50 cycles.

http://www.bourns.com/products/potentiometers/trimpot-trimming-potentiometers-single-turn/product/33...


Perhaps not an issue for someone who sets it to 14.x and spins the spring wound timer and has no need for a different voltage.

Removing this trim pot and replacing it with wires leading to a higher rotational cycle life more precise potentiometer is hardly rocket science, but does require some soldering skills AND or Disassembly of the unit, whose transistors use the casing as a heatsink, and require reapplication of thermal grease on reassembly.

At maximum output( think depleted battery) they get hot and should employ additional heat removal methods beyond the little sleeve bearing 60mm fan provided with the unit.

AStinker-
Explorer
Explorer
MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
If folks are genuinely intetested I could assemble a how-to-do-it article about setting up a Megawatt for Dummies. But not if three days of hard work does not become a "sticky". Don't care if it has my name posted. Something to be mounted in a compartment. Yes, it means running power to the compartment even an extension cord. Complete with German Hunting Handbook grade instructions...and genuine pictures.


I for one would love a "how-to-do-it article about setting up a Megawatt for Dummies." But have no idea how to go about requesting getting it made into a sticky.