'16 F250 w/o in-bed 7 pin plug & how to get a camper package

[desertroad]

Hi,

I'm replacing my 85 F-250 diesel with a 2016 6.2L F250 gasser extended cab for our Bigfoot camper. However, while this F250 has a tow package, with the plug below the bumper, I didn't see a plug in the driver side bed, for easy connection. Based on reading some other posts, I understand getting a camper package will not include an in-bed 7 pin plugin for a slide-in camper. So is the clunky workaround to get a longer cable, and try to plug it in the bumper plug, or will it be easy for a Ford dealer to put this in as well?

Side question, is the best way to obtain a camper package to get it directly from Ford, and then have a Ford dealer install it, or are there regular mechanics who can do this as well?

Thanks!

[eightOsix]

WyoBull wrote:
I had my Ford Dealer install the 7-way plug in the bed. The only way you can get it from the factory is if you order the 5th wheel prep package. It was an easy job for them to do and it looks just like it came from the factory.

WyoBull - With the 7-way in the bed is it easy or difficult to hook the camper cord? I have an Adventurer 89RBS on order to fit in a new F350. Debating whether to install an in bed plug, or go with the OEM plug on the bumper. Seems like the in-bed plug would be cleaner wiring.
I don't tow a trailer normally.

[desertroad]

Fishbreath wrote:
With regards to your original question regarding getting the wiring into the bed of your truck, you can buy an aftermarket kit that will plug into your existing wiring. It should be plug and play.
See if this is what you are looking for


https://www.amazon.com/56070-Custom-Wiring-Harness-Extension/dp/B0031GHBSE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1520530359&sr=8-1&keywords=5th+wheel+wiring+harness

I couldn't get the hyperlink to work.

Good luck

Thanks Bill for the link!

Bill

[Fishbreath]

With regards to your original question regarding getting the wiring into the bed of your truck, you can buy an aftermarket kit that will plug into your existing wiring. It should be plug and play.
See if this is what you are looking for


https://www.amazon.com/56070-Custom-Wiring-Harness-Extension/dp/B0031GHBSE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1520530359&sr=8-1&keywords=5th+wheel+wiring+harness

I couldn't get the hyperlink to work.

Good luck

Bill

[desertroad]

Grit dog wrote:

desertroad wrote:

burningman wrote:

desertroad wrote:


One thing I'm not sure about though, if I go with just a regular mechanic, will they also supply a valid camper package certificate, or is that only something a dealer can officially do?

What? Who cares and why would you need such a thing?

Maybe a DOT requirement to have in case of accident where I'm at fault, not sure where I read that.

No, I wouldn't worry about the camper package thing at all. And I'm skeptical that the certification you're thinking about even exists.
Lots of discussion about liability but in 30 yrpears of driving and seeing plenty of at fault accidents (big construction company) with overloaded trucks, never seen any more than the typical tickets for failure to yield etc, including accidents that caused injury and damages to other parties. Even a few lawsuits filed against the company, but it was for negligence of the driver, not equipment violations.

Extension from the bumper receptacle will work fine for a long time and in some cases may be easier to hook up. Plis I have 0 chance of pinching the wires when loading since I fish em to the back after loading and remove before unloading.
Mileage with the 6.2, I got 12-13 commuting, never hauled the camper on it, but similar loads/trailers, I'd expect 8-10mpg with the camper depending on speed. Maybe 11 if you baby it. The transmissions are spot on for shifting, down shifting, grade braking.
I'd slap on some tie downs, sway bar and either Timbrens, airbags or add a leafs depending on your preference and you're set.

Thanks for the recommendations and info about the wiring and certificate. With regards to the tie downs, are you talking about something like these:
http://tweetys.com/brophy-tdbp-universal-stake-pocket-camper-tie-down---set-of-4---zinc.aspx?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI-I-a7Jfd2QIVSy-BCh1R4QY-EAQYAyABEgK5AvD_BwE

On my old ford it was just part of the exterior bed.

[desertroad]

Grit dog wrote:

desertroad wrote:

scout4trout wrote:
The 2016 Ford camper package on the F250 includes rear auxiliary springs as well as a sway bar, so you could probably have Ford install those. But I'd opt for the Big Wig sway bar. Another member on this forum had a 2016 F250 with camper package that didn't feel he had sufficient capacity for his new Northern Lite (about 2,750 dry weight) so he upgraded to an F350. I don't know what model Big Foot you have, but the 2500 series are hefty for the F250. We're maxed on our F250. Probably should have listened to those on here that said we should go with the F350 when we were ordering.

Thanks for the info...Yes, we have a 2500 series Bigfoot, about 2700 Lb wet. My 85 diesel is hauling it fine without any noticable sagging. And I figure if I got a gas instead of diesel F250, it should lighten the truck to make up for the extended cab. You don't really know for sure until it's on the scales. I'm willing to take out the back seats of the extended cab and drive with less in the tanks to shave some more off to get closer to the 2500 Lb limit. Getting an F350 in California may be a lot more pricey with regards to DMV registration fees if I read it correctly.

Don’t go through pains to drop minimal weight from the new truck. You said it yourself. You’re hauling the same camper fine for years with a 30 year old truck. The New one is more capable, not less.
What you may find though is the std F250s like your new one have, IMO, relatively soft rear springs. They’re more progressive, good ride compar d to the old lumber wagons. Little bit of suspension help and you’ll be set.
Both the 13 and 15 models I had rode real nice compared to say my 07 Dodge. Rear springs are softer, but there’s easy fixes for that. Rest of the truck is the same as a 1 ton with softer springs.

Yeah, I noticed it only had 3 springs, and rode a lot nicer. Nice to to feel pain in my neck after driving it, unlike the old diesel.

[Grit_dog]

desertroad wrote:

burningman wrote:

desertroad wrote:


One thing I'm not sure about though, if I go with just a regular mechanic, will they also supply a valid camper package certificate, or is that only something a dealer can officially do?

What? Who cares and why would you need such a thing?

Maybe a DOT requirement to have in case of accident where I'm at fault, not sure where I read that.

No, I wouldn't worry about the camper package thing at all. And I'm skeptical that the certification you're thinking about even exists.
Lots of discussion about liability but in 30 yrpears of driving and seeing plenty of at fault accidents (big construction company) with overloaded trucks, never seen any more than the typical tickets for failure to yield etc, including accidents that caused injury and damages to other parties. Even a few lawsuits filed against the company, but it was for negligence of the driver, not equipment violations.

Extension from the bumper receptacle will work fine for a long time and in some cases may be easier to hook up. Plis I have 0 chance of pinching the wires when loading since I fish em to the back after loading and remove before unloading.
Mileage with the 6.2, I got 12-13 commuting, never hauled the camper on it, but similar loads/trailers, I'd expect 8-10mpg with the camper depending on speed. Maybe 11 if you baby it. The transmissions are spot on for shifting, down shifting, grade braking.
I'd slap on some tie downs, sway bar and either Timbrens, airbags or add a leafs depending on your preference and you're set.

[desertroad]

burningman wrote:

desertroad wrote:


One thing I'm not sure about though, if I go with just a regular mechanic, will they also supply a valid camper package certificate, or is that only something a dealer can officially do?

What? Who cares and why would you need such a thing?

Maybe a DOT requirement to have in case of accident where I'm at fault, not sure where I read that.

[mbloof]

I had outlets installed in both my 1997 and 2017 F250's. Two of the installs were done by RV dealers. The first one was not very good (I rewired it along with running a thicker gauge charge line) and the 2nd one (in the 2017) used a Ford OEM 5th wheel outlet/cable harness but with it mounted at the front drivers side of the bed. Oddly it plugs in near the rear bumper and then runs under the bed to the front of it where the outlet is installed.

The 2017 rides a lot softer empty AND loaded then my 1997 does. Then again the 1997 has Toyo608Z's on 19.5 rims and lots of air in them. 🙂 It rides like a truck.


I have Timberlins (sp?) for the rear to beef it up if need be and considering adding a "hell wing" or some such. I don't know if the local dealer could simply install the "camper package" for me to get the extra leaf and antisway bar.

[burningman]

desertroad wrote:


One thing I'm not sure about though, if I go with just a regular mechanic, will they also supply a valid camper package certificate, or is that only something a dealer can officially do?

What? Who cares and why would you need such a thing?

[desertroad]

stevenal wrote:
I had an in-bed receptacle two trucks ago. It was installed by the camper dealer using undersized wire and Scotch-loc connectors ensuring high voltage drop and little charging capability. They punched through the sheet metal leaving raw edges, so that's where the corrosion began. I also had to be careful when loading material to keep from damaging it. Beginning with my last truck, I now connect to the trailer receptacle and leave the bed clean.

Good to know, I'll try an extension cord to the bumper first, and see if that works out OK, before considering an in-bed connector.

[desertroad]

WyoBull wrote:
I had my Ford Dealer install the 7-way plug in the bed. The only way you can get it from the factory is if you order the 5th wheel prep package. It was an easy job for them to do and it looks just like it came from the factory.

Thanks if the extension doesn't work, I'll likely do this.

[desertroad]

Bedlam wrote:
Between the bed and cab should be a plug to allow running a connection to the pickup bed. I have always used a long cord from the camper to the back of the truck where I use a Y-cable to enable towing off the same connection.

If you have access to a junkyard, you may be able pull the perches off the frame rails of a F350 and while on that same truck grab the u-bolts, blocks and upper overload springs.

I was happy with my OEM rear stabilizer bar, but the BigWig is better choice if don't already have one.

My truck also had higher rated coils on the front suspension. It my not be needed unless you plan to add a front cargo basket, aftermarket bumper or winch to your truck.

Thanks for the BigWig stabilizer bar recommendation and the options to go to the junkyard to save money. I won't be adding anything on the front, one of the reasons I went with a lightweight portable 2KW generator, so I wouldn't need to add a basket in front.

[desertroad]

Grit dog wrote:
Well congrats on the new rig! That's a heck of a step up. You're getting a great truck. Have had a couple of them as company work trucks....solid.
I wouldn't go to the dealer for anything. If you're not comfortable doing basic mechanical work yourself, pretty much any mechanic can do basic suspension upgrades or trailer plugs.
Plus, you can buy plug n play kits for an additional trailer plug. Check out etrailer.com.

I don't use the camper much so I just made an extension plug from the rear plug by the hitch.

Thanks! Glad to know they're solid trucks, I noticed it revs differently probably due to the 6 speed, compared to older F250's I've driven in. While you can't seem to floor it in 1st gear, it does seem to imply I'll get some mileage savings, due to the 6 speed and more gradual transitions. I'm OK with that. I might try your method first with the extension cord from the trailer plug.

One thing I'm not sure about though, if I go with just a regular mechanic, will they also supply a valid camper package certificate, or is that only something a dealer can officially do?

[TxGearhead]

I'm assuming you have a combination 4 pin & 7 pin on the bumper. I have that and the factory 7 pin in the truck bed. For the TC I use the bumper connection. I use one cable tie to secure the cord to the truck behind the bumper. If I use the in bed connection I can't reach it with the TC loaded. If the in bed truck connection gets loose I would have to jack the camper up to get to it. Not much chance of that ever happening though. But my bigger issue is Ram trucks do not isolate the truck battery from the camper. The camper can drain the truck batteries. (I've heard). So I use the bumper connection so that I can unplug if I'm doing some extended dry camping. I've never been in that situation, but you never know..