'16 F250 w/o in-bed 7 pin plug & how to get a camper package

[desertroad]

Hi,

I'm replacing my 85 F-250 diesel with a 2016 6.2L F250 gasser extended cab for our Bigfoot camper. However, while this F250 has a tow package, with the plug below the bumper, I didn't see a plug in the driver side bed, for easy connection. Based on reading some other posts, I understand getting a camper package will not include an in-bed 7 pin plugin for a slide-in camper. So is the clunky workaround to get a longer cable, and try to plug it in the bumper plug, or will it be easy for a Ford dealer to put this in as well?

Side question, is the best way to obtain a camper package to get it directly from Ford, and then have a Ford dealer install it, or are there regular mechanics who can do this as well?

Thanks!

[Grit_dog]

desertroad wrote:

scout4trout wrote:
The 2016 Ford camper package on the F250 includes rear auxiliary springs as well as a sway bar, so you could probably have Ford install those. But I'd opt for the Big Wig sway bar. Another member on this forum had a 2016 F250 with camper package that didn't feel he had sufficient capacity for his new Northern Lite (about 2,750 dry weight) so he upgraded to an F350. I don't know what model Big Foot you have, but the 2500 series are hefty for the F250. We're maxed on our F250. Probably should have listened to those on here that said we should go with the F350 when we were ordering.

Thanks for the info...Yes, we have a 2500 series Bigfoot, about 2700 Lb wet. My 85 diesel is hauling it fine without any noticable sagging. And I figure if I got a gas instead of diesel F250, it should lighten the truck to make up for the extended cab. You don't really know for sure until it's on the scales. I'm willing to take out the back seats of the extended cab and drive with less in the tanks to shave some more off to get closer to the 2500 Lb limit. Getting an F350 in California may be a lot more pricey with regards to DMV registration fees if I read it correctly.

Don’t go through pains to drop minimal weight from the new truck. You said it yourself. You’re hauling the same camper fine for years with a 30 year old truck. The New one is more capable, not less.
What you may find though is the std F250s like your new one have, IMO, relatively soft rear springs. They’re more progressive, good ride compar d to the old lumber wagons. Little bit of suspension help and you’ll be set.
Both the 13 and 15 models I had rode real nice compared to say my 07 Dodge. Rear springs are softer, but there’s easy fixes for that. Rest of the truck is the same as a 1 ton with softer springs.

[hedge]

easiest way is to buy the factory harness, it will plug in to the two plugs on the side of your receiver hitch. It does mount to the left rear though.

If you don't want to go that way you can buy a cable that plugs in inbetween the factory plug at the hitch and then you can run the plug into the bed wherever you want.

[Bedlam]

My Arctic Fox had the 6-pin connector on the camper to connect to the 7-way cable, but my Host cable is hard wired. I liked the convenience of my AF but it does introduce another contact point for connection quality issues.

[WyoBull]

Kayteg1 wrote:
I was considering adding such plug on my new truck, but from what I check factory puts them in rear corner of the bed.
That require to use cord extension anyway and with tall bed sides on newer trucks, you don't have access to the plug with camper on.
So what's the point?
I plug the extension into bumper plug, drive under the camper and plug camper cord into extension, securing the cables hanging on camper side.
Than lower the camper and I am done.
For years I've been crawling under the camper to pull bumper plug and in dry weather it is not a big deal, but thinking about my knees getting stiffer and stiffer with age and potential for camping in the rain, , the side cable connection is way better.

I know every camper and truck combination is different with regards to how much room you have to reach over the bedrail into the side of the bed. With my combination, I have plenty of room to reach in and plug in the cable to the 7-way at the back of my bed. That being said, what I do is plug the cable into the 7-way in my bed and loop the cable over the side. I then back my truck under the camper and after lowering it onto the truck I plug the other end into the camper.
I do know on my buddy's Arctic Fox he only has about an inch of clearance from the top of the bedrail to the bottom of his camper so he cannot reach in if needed to plug/unplug at the 7-way in his bed.

[Bedlam]

The rear axle weight and capacity will not change much based on the engine you choose up front. It does change payload from a GVWR point of view, but that's paper verses physical reality.

[desertroad]

skipro3 wrote:
If you buy your camper from a dealer, they should wire your truck for you. My Lance dealer did anyways. If you are buying a used camper from a private party, then get the camper first as the pin out between brands can be different. Last thing I would do is let a dealer anywhere near my truck other than warranty work.

Thank you for replying..We have a used 2001 Bigfoot, so already have it. Great camper and still trying to figure things out. I notice the voltage drops pretty quick on the camper battery (just an 85 AH RV battery), I may have wired the connector cable incorrectly, draining the battery faster, or perhaps there are vampire loads in the camper that I'm not aware off yet.

[desertroad]

scout4trout wrote:
The 2016 Ford camper package on the F250 includes rear auxiliary springs as well as a sway bar, so you could probably have Ford install those. But I'd opt for the Big Wig sway bar. Another member on this forum had a 2016 F250 with camper package that didn't feel he had sufficient capacity for his new Northern Lite (about 2,750 dry weight) so he upgraded to an F350. I don't know what model Big Foot you have, but the 2500 series are hefty for the F250. We're maxed on our F250. Probably should have listened to those on here that said we should go with the F350 when we were ordering.

Thanks for the info...Yes, we have a 2500 series Bigfoot, about 2700 Lb wet. My 85 diesel is hauling it fine without any noticable sagging. And I figure if I got a gas instead of diesel F250, it should lighten the truck to make up for the extended cab. You don't really know for sure until it's on the scales. I'm willing to take out the back seats of the extended cab and drive with less in the tanks to shave some more off to get closer to the 2500 Lb limit. Getting an F350 in California may be a lot more pricey with regards to DMV registration fees if I read it correctly.

[stevenal]

I had an in-bed receptacle two trucks ago. It was installed by the camper dealer using undersized wire and Scotch-loc connectors ensuring high voltage drop and little charging capability. They punched through the sheet metal leaving raw edges, so that's where the corrosion began. I also had to be careful when loading material to keep from damaging it. Beginning with my last truck, I now connect to the trailer receptacle and leave the bed clean.

[Kayteg1]

I was considering adding such plug on my new truck, but from what I check factory puts them in rear corner of the bed.
That require to use cord extension anyway and with tall bed sides on newer trucks, you don't have access to the plug with camper on.
So what's the point?
I plug the extension into bumper plug, drive under the camper and plug camper cord into extension, securing the cables hanging on camper side.
Than lower the camper and I am done.
For years I've been crawling under the camper to pull bumper plug and in dry weather it is not a big deal, but thinking about my knees getting stiffer and stiffer with age and potential for camping in the rain, , the side cable connection is way better.

[WyoBull]

I had my Ford Dealer install the 7-way plug in the bed. The only way you can get it from the factory is if you order the 5th wheel prep package. It was an easy job for them to do and it looks just like it came from the factory.

[Bedlam]

Between the bed and cab should be a plug to allow running a connection to the pickup bed. I have always used a long cord from the camper to the back of the truck where I use a Y-cable to enable towing off the same connection.

If you have access to a junkyard, you may be able pull the perches off the frame rails of a F350 and while on that same truck grab the u-bolts, blocks and upper overload springs.

I was happy with my OEM rear stabilizer bar, but the BigWig is better choice if don't already have one.

My truck also had higher rated coils on the front suspension. It my not be needed unless you plan to add a front cargo basket, aftermarket bumper or winch to your truck.

[Grit_dog]

Well congrats on the new rig! That's a heck of a step up. You're getting a great truck. Have had a couple of them as company work trucks....solid.
I wouldn't go to the dealer for anything. If you're not comfortable doing basic mechanical work yourself, pretty much any mechanic can do basic suspension upgrades or trailer plugs.
Plus, you can buy plug n play kits for an additional trailer plug. Check out etrailer.com.

I don't use the camper much so I just made an extension plug from the rear plug by the hitch.

[scout4trout]

The 2016 Ford camper package on the F250 includes rear auxiliary springs as well as a sway bar, so you could probably have Ford install those. But I'd opt for the Big Wig sway bar. Another member on this forum had a 2016 F250 with camper package that didn't feel he had sufficient capacity for his new Northern Lite (about 2,750 dry weight) so he upgraded to an F350. I don't know what model Big Foot you have, but the 2500 series are hefty for the F250. We're maxed on our F250. Probably should have listened to those on here that said we should go with the F350 when we were ordering.

[Ski_Pro_3]

If you buy your camper from a dealer, they should wire your truck for you. My Lance dealer did anyways. If you are buying a used camper from a private party, then get the camper first as the pin out between brands can be different. Last thing I would do is let a dealer anywhere near my truck other than warranty work.