2004 Dodge Diesel auto transmission

[Jim2007]

Hi All: This truck has about 110k. I have done alot of work on the engine and no major work on the auto. transmission. I would like to keep using it as our tow vehicle. I have changed the transmission fluid every 30k as recommended by Dodge. It is my understanding the color of the fluid is about the only indicator of problems in the transmission. Is there other indicators? The shifting between gears is smooth. Thanks for comments. Jim2007

[Perrysburg_Dodg]

Jim2007 wrote:
Hi All.. Thanks for all the help on my question. Thomasmnile; Yes, the band have been adjusted if needed at each flush. I do not know which slush box I have. Jim2007

2004 has the 48RE the 47RE ended in 2003.

[crcr]

DirtyOil wrote:

Jim2007 wrote:
Hi All: This truck has about 110k. I have done alot of work on the engine and no major work on the auto. transmission. I would like to keep using it as our tow vehicle. I have changed the transmission fluid every 30k as recommended by Dodge. It is my understanding the color of the fluid is about the only indicator of problems in the transmission. Is there other indicators? The shifting between gears is smooth. Thanks for comments. Jim2007

Other then fluid colour, look into the pan see how much debris has collected on the bottom of the pan and around the magnet. Changing fluid and filter along with adjusting the bands(over doing the adjust will kill the tranny fast)is all you need to do. As for others suggestions of adding/removing this or that, not required, unless your going to run a programmer to increase HP/TQ.

.

My engine is completely stock, no programmer. I live in the SW desert and tow, so I monitor my transmission temps. I have made the two tweaks to the transmission cooling system mentioned to try to keep temps down in my transmission. If you google the two items mentioned, and / or check on Cummins forums, these are things commonly done to the transmission cooling system to keep temps down and thus extend the life of the transmission.

That bypass valve in the transmission cooler commonly gets stuck in bypass mode, as did mine, in which case the transmission cooler is doing absolutely nothing -- not a good thing. These two items are recommended by many 48RE (third Gen Ram) transmission rebuilders. I'm just passing along information. To each his own counsel ...

Per the Dodge service manual, the bands are supposed to be adjusted when the transmission fluid is changed every 30,000 miles (recommended interval).

[Jim2007]

Hi All.. Thanks for all the help on my question. Thomasmnile; Yes, the band have been adjusted if needed at each flush. I do not know which slush box I have. Jim2007

[Perrysburg_Dodg]

The band adjust is called for at 50,000 for the severe duty and 100,000 miles for normal service. Heavy towing would equal severe.

As for fluid color the Mopar ATF+4 is a very dark fluid so it is NOT recommended to use it as a guide.

Don

[Cummins12V98]

Keep the fluid changed like you are doing and be sure BOTH the inside and outside bands get adjusted.

[thomasmnile]

Jim2007 wrote:
Hi All: This truck has about 110k. I have done alot of work on the engine and no major work on the auto. transmission. I would like to keep using it as our tow vehicle. I have changed the transmission fluid every 30k as recommended by Dodge. It is my understanding the color of the fluid is about the only indicator of problems in the transmission. Is there other indicators? The shifting between gears is smooth. Thanks for comments. Jim2007

A question: When you perform the fluid changes do you also check and adjust the bands while the pan is off? Think the owners' manual for my '05 recommends it. I know the shop that services mine does at each fluid change. Does your truck have the 47RE or 48RE slushbox?

[DirtyOil]

Jim2007 wrote:
Hi All: This truck has about 110k. I have done alot of work on the engine and no major work on the auto. transmission. I would like to keep using it as our tow vehicle. I have changed the transmission fluid every 30k as recommended by Dodge. It is my understanding the color of the fluid is about the only indicator of problems in the transmission. Is there other indicators? The shifting between gears is smooth. Thanks for comments. Jim2007

Other then fluid colour, look into the pan see how much debris has collected on the bottom of the pan and around the magnet. Changing fluid and filter along with adjusting the bands(over doing the adjust will kill the tranny fast)is all you need to do. As for others suggestions of adding/removing this or that, not required, unless your going to run a programmer to increase HP/TQ.

[john_bet]

StewC130 wrote:
Same truck as yours. At about 160K a ring broke in the overdrive unit and cut a groove in the overdrive gear. Got it replaced but could never get all the fine metal out. It finally started collecting on the solenoids so I had the tranny rebuilt local. Lucky for me we have a company called Suncoast Transmissions here and they build a great product. Best thing I ever did. I picked up a couple miles per gallon because the thing was slipping so bad before the rebuild. Installed a triple disc converter, new valve body, billet input/output shafts, and other stuff. Raised the pressure so it really locks into gear now with minimum to no slipping. Dodge built some slip into the tranny because of complaints that it shifted too hard which eventually leads to wear of the parts.

I for one am not a fan of Sun coast. That was the T/C they used on my rebuild. It went out 25 miles west of Circle,MT. cutting the front pump up and seal leaking fluid all over every where. At this point I am 1400 miles from the shop that did rebuild so they sent parts out to Circle and I am on my way 4 days later. The local shop pulled my trans for a look see when I got home and also paid all of my extra expenses we incured like rental car, hotel etc. It does not have a Sun Coast in it now.

[Perrysburg_Dodg]

My 2004 HO lost the T/C at about 125K was told it needed replaced at 117K but figured it was just a money grab.I also did regular filter and fluid changes, changed the governor pressure sensor and governor solenoid with the updated unit. At your mileage it would just be better to have the trans rebuilt and us the upgraded parts and a three disc converter it towing.
If you want to do the sensor and solenoid here is a link show hot to do it.

I still think at this point you will be throwing good money out the window as your trans is near it's life cycle.

Don

[StewC130]

Same truck as yours. At about 160K a ring broke in the overdrive unit and cut a groove in the overdrive gear. Got it replaced but could never get all the fine metal out. It finally started collecting on the solenoids so I had the tranny rebuilt local. Lucky for me we have a company called Suncoast Transmissions here and they build a great product. Best thing I ever did. I picked up a couple miles per gallon because the thing was slipping so bad before the rebuild. Installed a triple disc converter, new valve body, billet input/output shafts, and other stuff. Raised the pressure so it really locks into gear now with minimum to no slipping. Dodge built some slip into the tranny because of complaints that it shifted too hard which eventually leads to wear of the parts.

[billyray50]

I owned a 2006 Ram 2500 CTD with the 5.9 auto and even though I took care of Transmission religiously it went at 132,000. Read on numerous Dodge Cummins sites that the 48Re Transmission only lasts around 150,000. Ended up trading truck in on new dually but engine was great.

[crcr]

I would suggest removing the ball check valve mentioned previously. It greatly restricts the flow of trans fluid, even if there isn't clutch debris stuck around it. I watched an entire rebuild of a 48RE (third gen Ram auto trans) valve body on utube, and at the end, the professional rebuilder mentioned the ball check valve, and said he has seen debris getting stuck around that check ball, burn up transmissions. Then he said, "Get it out of there!" I did.

It's inside the top of two transmission fluid lines, behind the driver's side wheel well. You remove the hose with a quick release tool, drill out the check ball, clean the hose, and re-install. The hose is only about 8" long. The check ball is there so that when you shut down the engine, the trans fluid doesn't drain out of the torque converter. This, so you can start the engine and drive away immediately. With it removed, after I start the truck, I put the trans in neutral for 15 seconds or more before driving away, so the pump refills the torque converter.

I also pulled the thermostat out of the OEM transmission cooler (also mentioned by previous poster), and reversed it so the cooler is never bypassed. I had found that my thermostat was stuck in the bypass position, and the trans fluid was NEVER getting circulated through the transmission cooler!

I would suggest that transmission temperatures be monitored in some way. You can pull it off the ECM with an CTS Edge Insight gauge (what I did). There are other digital gauges that plug into the OBD2 port. I used the ScanGauge II to pull trans fluid (plus anything else on the ECM, like coolant temp) off a previous vehicle. Some people use the Torque app.

[boogie_4wheel]

With those fluid changes, the bands should be getting adjusted as well. One is accessible externally, the other requires removal of the transmission pan (while the transmission filter is being replaced). When the front band runs out of threads during adjustment, it is worn out and needs to be replaced soon.

A common problem is a shuttle shift between 1-2 during light throttle applications. The fix is to replace the pressure transducer, and while at it go ahead and replace the 'whateveritscalled' solenoid. There is an upgrade by using using the GM solenoid in place of the factory spec unit.

A shift kit (TransGo or other manufacturer) will help with longevity of the transmission. They require valve body removal for installation. Quicker TC lockups, increased line pressure for better clutch application, without break-neck shifts. I have the TransGo kit in mine (without drilling the faster TC lockup holes) to help me with a 2-3 shuttle I had, which it resolved.

Torque Converter failure with the sprag when it tries to 'drive through' the brakes while stopping and high idle while in gear. The TC clutch doesn't fully release, kind of like pushing the clutch pedal about half way in, the engine is loaded so the computer increases fuel to maintain a set idle speed, so the truck 'power-brakes' when you aren't touching the throttle.

Consistent excessive heat could be a plugged/stuck thermostat in the transmission cooler. Pull and clean, and many people in warmer climates flip the thermostat around and install so that the fluid is always flowing through the fins instead of bypassing.

The ball check valve for the fluid cooler can become plugged and cause high temperatures as well. Or it can get stuck open and allow drain-back to the transmission and will cause a truck that wont move for a few seconds until it refills the cooling system and builds pressure.

Other 'signs' of failing don't normally exist. Not shifting into 4th, no TC lockup, getting stuck in 2nd, not upshifting, will usually suddenly happen without notice.

Remember that fluid is not circulated in Park. If you are nursing a hot transmission, idle the truck in Neutral so that fluid is circulated through the cooling system. Idling it Park for extended periods will generate heat in the trans.

[john_bet]

I have the same truck with 188K on it now. I still tow long distances with it and use it as a DD. My trans started slipping at 155K in first gear in '13. I had it rebuilt by a local shop. They used HD parts and I have no complaints. I have no engine mods nor have I had to do any other work to it. It is still in stock form.