6.0 EGR cooler.

[Bird_Freak]

Has anyone replaced your egr cooler with the newer style coolers with round cooling tubes. If so have you had any problems with them? Mine was replaced under warranty with a stock replacement and it was about 80K miles ago so it concerns me a little so now Im thinking a little preventive work and trying to decide to go with this or just a complete delete.
Please respond only with your PERSONAL experience and all the 6.0 bashing is not needed.
Thanks.

[Bird_Freak]

mudfuel07 wrote:
For the oil cooler, the OEM unit is the best one to use along with any OEM gaskets needed. Have your FICM checked while the work is being done, it can't hurt. I also went ahead and replaced the thermostat while I was in there along with the Degas cap.

The oil cooler I am using fits in the stock location and just has larger oil passages.

[Bird_Freak]

My buddy is going to do all the work in my shop. He is the lead diesel tech at our Ford dealer. He mentioned he needed a little help on the paint on his car at the perfect time! LOL. We are just checking everything as we go and updating TSB's.

[mudfuel07]

For the oil cooler, the OEM unit is the best one to use along with any OEM gaskets needed. Have your FICM checked while the work is being done, it can't hurt. I also went ahead and replaced the thermostat while I was in there along with the Degas cap.

[Hank85713]

Are you going to do the work? I see you have an 04 as I do. You also need to get it brought up to all the latest TB's from ford. I had mine done by the guy who did the work. Brought all up to speed to include the turbo drain line and some others I cant remember but if you visit a ford Diesel website you will find them. I told him NOT to do anything to the computer. Truck runs great and as I posted earlier is well within the delta spread as recommended. Supposedly the new OEM cooler has larger radiators than the original had. Also do the Blue Spring for the fuel system as the low pressure will kill injectors as will low voltage from the alternator and ficm. I have not had any ficm issues so far so mine is the original. Another good thing is to get an improved air to air cooler supposedly there is a kit available to have the plastic tanks taken off and an aluminum set installed. My B-I-L got a new cooler and he said made a world of difference and he had been having the plastic tanks leak and blow off.

For GP's I run oil and coolant bypass systems. BEFORE you R&R anything make sure you do a good coolant flush. I never had any 'casting' sand as many claim and the filter has not gotten anything worth while in it. The snot from the gold it did have so the change to cat ELC. Although supposedly not needed I also had the banjo bolts from 6.4 installed for the fuel system. Did they make a difference? I dont know but I had them installed anyhow. All depends on who you talk to.

After using the VC9 for the flush and installing a T for the bypass unit I flushed using just tap water and then final flushed with about 30 gallons of distilled. Now is also a good time to R&R the tstat. Might want to consider the new BPD water pump. They were not out when I had my system done or I would have installed one. SUpposedly the OEM are plastic and tend to crack. I know on my yamaha MC, they were plastic and cracked and the replacement was metal! PM if you wnat to talk. Hank

[Bird_Freak]

Thanks for the reply's. I'm going with the bullet proof egr cooler as I really don't want to do a delete. Installing high flow oil cooler and blue fuel spring.
Thanks also to the normal anti 6.0 boys for not bashing.

[mudfuel07]

Bird Freak wrote:

mudfuel07 wrote:
I just wound up deleting mine. If you're going in to replace, you might as well delete. I did the blue spring upgrade while I was in there. The oil cooler is next.

Did you have to get a tuner for the trouble light. I know some do.

I haven't yet. But, you have an 04, I think the strategy is different on yours. IIRC, the 03-04 could get away with just deleting and unplugging the valve without a light. I have mine plugged in laying on top of the engine and haven't thrown a hard code yet. I'm sure there is a soft code, but no light so far. The one thing I have noticed is that I have lower boost pressure 20-21 versus the 27-30 I had before the delete. I have done a LOT of research and still haven't figured out why. Some people say it's the strategy while others say it's because of the less pressure in the system. I haven't driven the truck around too much, but it doesn't act any different than before the delete.

[Bird_Freak]

mudfuel07 wrote:
I just wound up deleting mine. If you're going in to replace, you might as well delete. I did the blue spring upgrade while I was in there. The oil cooler is next.

Did you have to get a tuner for the trouble light. I know some do.

[mudfuel07]

I just wound up deleting mine. If you're going in to replace, you might as well delete. I did the blue spring upgrade while I was in there. The oil cooler is next.

[Bird_Freak]

TakingThe5th wrote:
I did an extensive cooling system flush at 40,000 miles and wound up with an inch plus of casting sand in the bottom of a 5 gallon bucket. I used 2 quarts of Ford's VC9 flush. I'm thinking I made a good move.

I would say you did. When Ford replaced my cooler 6 years ago I put a coolant filter on it as soon as I got it back.

[TakingThe5th]

I did an extensive cooling system flush at 40,000 miles and wound up with an inch plus of casting sand in the bottom of a 5 gallon bucket. I used 2 quarts of Ford's VC9 flush. I'm thinking I made a good move.

[Bird_Freak]

RooDude09 wrote:
The root cause of the egr failure is the coolant circuit of the oil cooler clogging up and starving it for coolant making the brazing melt inside the egr cooler and leak. The oil cooler clogs due to the coolant/casting sand whatever you want to call it. Coolant does double duty on diesel motors and must be changed more often than 100k as origionally advertised. My personal experiences are from working on them at the dealership. My boss had one, now owned by his dad. Drained and refilled coolant every 30k and no problems with the truck. His brother has a newer 6.0 and did no maintenance other than oil changes and began having all kinds of problems at 80k miles. I do like the tube type egr cooler though the look like they are welded at the ends and not brazed.

The one's I have looked at are stainless steel and are tig welded. Looks like a good setup. I will go ahead and change the oil cooler also.

[RooDude09]

The root cause of the egr failure is the coolant circuit of the oil cooler clogging up and starving it for coolant making the brazing melt inside the egr cooler and leak. The oil cooler clogs due to the coolant/casting sand whatever you want to call it. Coolant does double duty on diesel motors and must be changed more often than 100k as origionally advertised. My personal experiences are from working on them at the dealership. My boss had one, now owned by his dad. Drained and refilled coolant every 30k and no problems with the truck. His brother has a newer 6.0 and did no maintenance other than oil changes and began having all kinds of problems at 80k miles. I do like the tube type egr cooler though the look like they are welded at the ends and not brazed.

[Hank85713]

Yes I had the BPD one installed along with the OEM oil cooler. Runs fine, have no issues. Guy that did work was lead tech at a ford dealer, he also brought my truck up to date with the latest TSB's. 8-9* spread when cruising at 80 mph empty. I think there are several company's offering improved coolers, just depends on which one you want. While the guy was working on the coolers I had him do head studs and gaskets at the same time. I also changed over the caterpoillar ELC coolant and got away from the ford gold which is still thought as being the reason there were failures in the coolers.