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aftermarket wheels with lug-centric design

HG07JKRubi
Explorer
Explorer
Considering adding some aftermarket Dick Cepek GM7 wheels to my otherwise stock Ram1500.   I've been doing quite a bit of research on the concerns of going from the factory hub-centric wheels to an aftermarket lug-centric design on a tow vehicle due to the load on the wheel studs vs. the axle hub.   Does anyone have any opinion on this or reason why I shouldn't install aftermarket lug-centric wheels considering i tow a 31' travel trailer (~8000 lbs) with this truck ?
2011 Evergreen EverLite 31BHS
2009 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 Hemi Crew Cab
2013 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon
25 REPLIES 25

recycler
Explorer
Explorer
for your light truck and trailer combo you should be fine..i run stud centric american racing wheel on the dodge in my sig and i have had the weight of your camper on it with no problems...would i prefer hub centric..yes, but as most wider wheels are not...
1999 F550 truck conversion

Bumpyroad
Explorer
Explorer
EldIr wrote:


Uh, they look cool? And if you want to go with wider tires, you usually need a wider than stock wheel.


didn't see wider tires mentioned in the OP. and look cool?
plenty of extra money wasted on one's ego. :s
bumpy

APT
Explorer
Explorer
HG07JKRubi wrote:
Does anyone have any opinion on this or reason why I shouldn't install aftermarket lug-centric wheels considering i tow a 31' travel trailer (~8000 lbs) with this truck ?


A couple. You are probably overloading the rear axle and GVWR of your truck. Larger/heavier wheels/tires cost more fuel and performance. Save the $$$ for a more capable truck?
A & A parents of DD 2005, DS1 2007, DS2 2009
2011 Suburban 2500 6.0L 3.73 pulling 2011 Heartland North Trail 28BRS
2017 Subaru Outback 3.6R
2x 2023 Chevrolet Bolt EUV (Gray and Black Twins)

LarryJM
Explorer II
Explorer II
ktmrfs wrote:
jus2shy wrote:
Is this different from Hub-piloted versus Stud-piloted rims? I thought all passenger vehicles were stud-piloted rims and that hub-piloted rims were found on vehicles usually in commercial service?


maybe in days gone by, but currently the vast majority of passenger cars and light trucks are hub centric not lug centric. Among other things, it has way less stress on the studs/bolts since with hub centric wheels, the flange/hub takes the vertical load and the studs take the horizontal load. In lug centric, the stud must take vertical and horizontal loads. Or, maybe more correctly radial and axial loads. One issue in going from hub to lug centric rims is that now the lugs must take all the loads, which may or may not be a issue with the loads the studs are designed to take.

TT seem to be another story, most of them are lug centric.


I'll take that a tad bit further and say for years or at least decades ALL motorized vehicles from the factory use the Hub Centric method of centering the wheel even if they have the conical lug nuts and seats. The conical lug nuts and seats are actually just a different method of fastening wheels onto the studs ... a secondary benefit is that they will somewhat (albiet poorly) center a wheel on the studs. As mentioned in another post many aftermarket wheels have a larger hub pilot so one wheel can fit a variety of vehicles, but you run the risk of encountering NVH issues. As mentioned TTs might actually depend more on what is called a Lug Centric system mainly because there you are not so concerned with introducing minor NVH issues since those are not manned or are steerable like a vehicle is so some vibration/harshness will not be evident or observable for the most part.

The reason that OEM/factory wheels use the hub centric system is that it is much easier to cast/machine one hole in the center of something that to get 5, 6, or 8 holes accurately placed around a central position. There are some aftermarket wheels that are still hub centric and you can generally tell that in that they will use the flat washer type fastening system. A word of caution is that the conical fastening system is a lot more forgiving in the range of torque values than the more demanding flat washer system and if you have the latter proper torquing using a good torque wrench and doing the follow up torque checks are critical from a safety standpoint. This is because if a wheel is allowed to slip with the flat washer system it can put a shear stress on the wheel studs something less likely with the conical fastening system since the lug nut has to ride up out of the conical seat to bind against the wheel stud. This hub centric factory design is also why some times factory steel wheels will get "stuck" because any slight corrosion in the incredibly close tolerances between the hub and wheel pilot can basically "weld" the wheel to the hub. IIRC factory specs are somewhere in either the several thousandths of an inch.

Your point about the loads on the wheel studs in a true lug centric system is in theory true, but even in a lug centric system the hub will be carrying part of the load because in the natural torquing of the lug nuts more than likely you will "FORCE" the wheel up against the hub at some point or multiple points so as the wheel turns the load can shift from the hub to the hub studs depending on the orientation of the wheel to the ground. Generally even true lug centric wheels the wheel pilot is not so large that the entire load is only carried by the hub studs, but that is a consideration if you are dealing is very high loads like we are concerned with when towing such heavy trailers.

WHEW ... off the soap box and if you're wondering where I got all this it was from some extensive "schooling" by a gent who has decades of experience in actually designing wheels for a major vehicle manufacturer (one of the old big threes).

Larry
2001 standard box 7.3L E-350 PSD Van with 4.10 rear and 2007 Holiday Rambler Aluma-Lite 8306S Been RV'ing since 1974.
RAINKAP INSTALL////ETERNABOND INSTALL

ktmrfs
Explorer
Explorer
jus2shy wrote:
Is this different from Hub-piloted versus Stud-piloted rims? I thought all passenger vehicles were stud-piloted rims and that hub-piloted rims were found on vehicles usually in commercial service?


maybe in days gone by, but currently the vast majority of passenger cars and light trucks are hub centric not lug centric. Among other things, it has way less stress on the studs/bolts since with hub centric wheels, the flange/hub takes the vertical load and the studs take the horizontal load. In lug centric, the stud must take vertical and horizontal loads. Or, maybe more correctly radial and axial loads. One issue in going from hub to lug centric rims is that now the lugs must take all the loads, which may or may not be a issue with the loads the studs are designed to take.

TT seem to be another story, most of them are lug centric.
2011 Keystone Outback 295RE
2004 14' bikehauler with full living quarters
2015.5 Denali 4x4 CC/SB Duramax/Allison
2004.5 Silverado 4x4 CC/SB Duramax/Allison passed on to our Son!

jus2shy
Explorer
Explorer
Is this different from Hub-piloted versus Stud-piloted rims? I thought all passenger vehicles were stud-piloted rims and that hub-piloted rims were found on vehicles usually in commercial service?
E'Aho L'ua
2013 RAM 3500 Crew Cab 4x4 SRW |Cummins @ 370/800| 68RFE| 3.42 gears
Currently Rig-less (still shopping and biding my time)

EldIr
Explorer
Explorer
smkettner wrote:
What is the motivation to change the wheels?
I would leave it stock. Plenty of other stuff to spend money on.


Uh, they look cool? And if you want to go with wider tires, you usually need a wider than stock wheel.
'01 Burb 2500 4x4 496/4.10 (3.73 effective w/ new tires)
'94 Jayco 300BH

EldIr
Explorer
Explorer
Atlee wrote:
What is the reasoning for going to lug centric rims?

HG07JKRubi wrote:
Considering adding some aftermarket Dick Cepek GM7 wheels to my otherwise stock Ram1500.   I've been doing quite a bit of research on the concerns of going from the factory hub-centric wheels to an aftermarket lug-centric design on a tow vehicle due to the load on the wheel studs vs. the axle hub.   Does anyone have any opinion on this or reason why I shouldn't install aftermarket lug-centric wheels considering i tow a 31' travel trailer (~8000 lbs) with this truck ?


Pretty much all after-market wheels are lug centric. Their center bore is larger to fit a variety of vehicles with different axle diameter. Most are also available with hub centric spacers to fit the specific application. Check with the place selling the wheels, they should have, or can point you to, the proper spacers for your needs.
'01 Burb 2500 4x4 496/4.10 (3.73 effective w/ new tires)
'94 Jayco 300BH

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
What is the motivation to change the wheels?
I would leave it stock. Plenty of other stuff to spend money on.

Atlee
Explorer II
Explorer II
What is the reasoning for going to lug centric rims?

HG07JKRubi wrote:
Considering adding some aftermarket Dick Cepek GM7 wheels to my otherwise stock Ram1500.   I've been doing quite a bit of research on the concerns of going from the factory hub-centric wheels to an aftermarket lug-centric design on a tow vehicle due to the load on the wheel studs vs. the axle hub.   Does anyone have any opinion on this or reason why I shouldn't install aftermarket lug-centric wheels considering i tow a 31' travel trailer (~8000 lbs) with this truck ?
Erroll, Mary
2021 Coachmen Freedom Express 20SE
2014 F150 Supercab 4x4 w/ 8' box, Ecoboost & HD Pkg
Equal-i-zer Hitch

amxpress
Explorer
Explorer
Installing lug centric rims on a vehicle designed for hub centric can also result in a vibration, even if the tire is balanced.
I've experienced this many times in my job.
2021 Toyota Tundra TRD Off Road double cab
2022 Airstream International 27FB
Blue Ox Sway Pro hitch
M.I.L is self quatanting in Jacksonville Zoo