Andersen WD Hitch on 4' Supertruss - Part 2

[Boatycall]

So, I posted a while back if anyone had any feedback on this new hitch I got before I took off on my first trip with it. Didn't get much direct feedback.

Well now, I can add some--WOW what a difference!! All the heaving and sway was completely gone. I was amazed!

Loaded up my F450 with my EC1160 and Wells Cargo trailer hauling my Jeep and my bike. I have a DOT scale near the house, stopped on the way home. 4,260 steer, 13,360 drive, Trlr 13,080 - just over 30k and it handled like a dream!
(The pic of the hitch itself was when I was rigging it up in my driveway, NOT driving--none of the safety chains or wires are connected - I was just getting the WD dialed in)

Andersen Hitches

[SoonDockin]

I think I will try this one for my first ever WD hitch. Just pulling 5k but my cannon requires it for over 3300lbs.

[Supercharged111]

OK just googled this Anderson kit, going to research it a little more. I started with a 15k Curt WD hitch and it was garbage, it hogged itself out on the 2nd trip and neither Curt nor Etrailer were interest in helping me, blaming me for overloading it with my 9000# trailer. They've both lost a customer for life. I picked up a 15k Reese and have had zero issues with it after 5 trips. I just wonder if there's a compelling reason to switch to this style of hitch. I can see how it's designed.

[Kayteg1]

Boatycall wrote:
Maybe this will help - take a look at this video. If you look closely, you'll see a slight angle in the trailer bars, and a matching angle in the chain square-tubes that match, and the allen-head locking bolt.

Youtube Video

I can't emphasize how much better it handles my trailer as heavy as it is on a 4foot extension. I'll be selling my old WD soon.

All the presentation shows the guides and chains either perfectly in-line, or close to it.
Yours show quite and angle and as owners who put some miles on them report - the wear is excessive.
When the design has it advantages, I see too many wearables with low life expectancy.
You also need jack the trailer and the truck rear to disconnect the bracket?
I'd keep the old bars just in case.
Lastly how about a picture of the bars when your truck rear sits in the ditch?

[ajriding]

How much articulation is possible between the TV and trailer? (how much of an angle up and down before the springs bottom out). Usually I have to take WD off for off-roads

[Boatycall]

Maybe this will help - take a look at this video. If you look closely, you'll see a slight angle in the trailer bars, and a matching angle in the chain square-tubes that match, and the allen-head locking bolt.

Youtube Video

I can't emphasize how much better it handles my trailer as heavy as it is on a 4foot extension. I'll be selling my old WD soon.

[Boatycall]

ajriding wrote:

I would shim under the lower bolt that holds the hitch to the trailer frame, this would take out some of the leaning angle that is causing the springs to point up in difference to the chains that are going parallel to the ground.

It's supposed to have that slight angle.
There are three points of attachment holding the brackets to the trailer frame.
1-That angle helps bind it in place, and the square tube where the chains go in also have a matching angle to level them out. The top and bottom of the bolts are pinched against the frame rails.
2-The bolts themselves clamping the brackets to the frame.
3-In the first pic, if you look closely, there is a lock bolt that also required drilling into the frame that also locks the brackets in place. You'll see the top and bottom clamping bolts, and a third one which is a large allen-head bolt going into a hole in the frame.
This is held in place much better than the previous WD hitch that simply had one lock bolt on the opposite side of the chain clamp.

[Kayteg1]

From the look of that, there is narrow clamp to the frame, who has to hold 1000's of lb forces.
That looks like design flaw to me.

[ajriding]

Kayteg1 wrote:
Nice set up.
We had a topic somewhere about those coil-springs WD bars and it was pointed that it is crucial that chains will go in-line with the bar sleeves.
your 1st picture shows them with visible angle.
I also think your front is too light as my F350 has it at 4800lb, but if it steers OK, that's what you care about.

Yes. Seems like there would be only a limited number of trailer frame heights (4,5 6 inch etc).
but

I would shim under the lower bolt that holds the hitch to the trailer frame, this would take out some of the leaning angle that is causing the springs to point up in difference to the chains that are going parallel to the ground.
A flat metal bar. I just saw some at Homedepot, and you can get them in aluminum or steel. This should cause the metal bracket to be more align, so the chains exit smoothly from the square tube the spring is attached to.

Nice rig.

[truckpro]

Yeah that Andersen Hitch is for sure the way to go!

[Kayteg1]

Nice set up.
We had a topic somewhere about those coil-springs WD bars and it was pointed that it is crucial that chains will go in-line with the bar sleeves.
your 1st picture shows them with visible angle.
I also think your front is too light as my F350 has it at 4800lb, but if it steers OK, that's what you care about.

[Supercharged111]

I had a number of folks telling me the 4ft extension on a dually was A-OK, even a rando that hauled slide ins and trailers for the dealer I bought from. I was apprehensive, but took their advise and boy am I glad I did. I can have my cake and eat it too! I load the 1191 and hook up my 9000# 24' enclosed car hauler and drag the whole mess in OD to the race track without any drama. This truck has definitely met and exceeded my expectations. I'm now looking at adding a Jeep or side by side to my collection to further the camping adventures vs the racing ones.