Another Blue OX Sway Pro question and concern

[ajk170]

Close-up of Blue Ox Sway ProI'm new to the forum but have had my TT (2015 Keystone Outback 316RL) for the past 18 months and loving every minute of it. We use to tow it with a 2010 F150 5.4 (4x2) but upgraded to a 2013 F250 6.7 diesel (FX4). We upgraded the TV due to the overall weight being almost too much for the F150(Cat Scale showed our load on our way back from a an outing was 14.9k lbs. I think max GVW on the F150(4x2) was 15.2K).

Since this is our first TT I have nothing to base anything off of and we've only ever used the Blue Ox Sway pro. The TV is the only change. The 250 pulls it like there's nothing there (which is nice) but my concern is the proper set-up of the Sway Pro. Not the installation (that's seems fine) but the link tension and how much sag should be on the rear end of the truck. I included a pic to show what we look like, although this is not fully out loaded so some weight is missing from the truck bed.

You'll also notice the bars barely flex (1500# bars)but I spoke to Blue Ox when we first got it and they said it would be fine. So I trust the manufacturer and really don't want to buy new bars.

I use to have the hitched flipped with the "long end" up but reversing it allowed me to drop a little lower to get the trailer more "nose down". Although the picture suggests it's actually level.

So, does this look ok? I realize that this is a math problem and 12% of the trailer weight should be on the bumper and I should measure the front bumper before and after I'm hitched (I think I have that right) and I should stop at a scale the next time we have it out but it doesn't seem to matter what I do, I can't level out the F250 nor could I do it when we had the F150 and I even put spring helpers on the F150!

Thank you all for the help and insight- hopefully I'm paranoid.
F250 w/Outback 2015 316RL and Blue OX Swaypro w/1500# bars

[Community Alumni]

Mike Up wrote:

No, what I was saying is that you shouldn't be using 1500 lbs spring bars on a F150 since the hitch receiver rating was only 1050 lbs.

On a F250, that 1500 lbs is close enough to the 1400 lbs max tongue weight rating of the hitch receiver.

What's important is the actual tongue weight of the trailer and ensuring that it doesn't exceed the receiver's capacity. The ratings on the bars exist to show the maximum amount of tongue weight the bars can handle. The bars can handle from 200 lbs to their max rating. He would've been fine to use the 1500 lbs bars or even the 2,000 lbs bars with the F150 as long as his actual tongue weight didn't exceed the 1,050 rating of the receiver.

[Community Alumni]

Retired JSO wrote:

I can't physically get another chain link with the jack all the way up and using a 24" breaker bar. I went to the 2000 lb bars when the 1500 lb bars bought with the hitch would bend like a pretzel. Even these 2000 lb bars are bent pretty bad under load.

You may need to use a block of wood under the jack foot or get a jack that has more height. I'm able to jack my truck up to the point where the tires are almost off of the ground. At that point, I can put the correct link in the slot and turn the latch by hand to lock it. You may also want to double check that your ball isn't set too low.

The bars are doing what they are designed to do, flex. The bars are made out of spring steel. They are designed to flex quite a bit and return to their original shape when unloaded. This flexing is part of the sway control. It is possible to permanently distort the bars, but that normally happens when the bars have been overloaded.

[ajk170]

Ok, that helps, I appreciate the help breaking that down for me. I can't believe I was naive enough to think that the 150 would be able to work on the 316RL. Guess it goes to show the dealers say almost anything in order to sell to new people.

But in the end, it's really my fault, I didn't do enough research to know my truck's capabilities and the proper equipment needed.

[Mike_Up]

ajk170 wrote:
Mike Up-If I'm reading this correctly, you're suggesting that even with a 2013 F250 6.7 and a 2.5" hitch, I shouldn't be running 1500# bars on my Blue Ox Sway Pro? That doesn't seem right. Correct me if I'm wrong, thanks!

No, what I was saying is that you shouldn't be using 1500 lbs spring bars on a F150 since the hitch receiver rating was only 1050 lbs.

On a F250, that 1500 lbs is close enough to the 1400 lbs max tongue weight rating of the hitch receiver.

[ajk170]

at rsaylor3- thanks for the tip, I find I have to do something similar between drive, park and revers. I'll try neutral next time! Realize now that I need to go through the setup guide and there are no shortcuts nor same setups for different rigs.

It all seems obvious and common sense (maybe it all is) in hind-sight, but a friendly forums like this really helps with rookie questions and mistakes. I appreciate everybody's input, advise, guidance and overall help! Hopefully this dialogue will help others as well, even through it is a bit long!

[ajk170]

Mike Up-If I'm reading this correctly, you're suggesting that even with a 2013 F250 6.7 and a 2.5" hitch, I shouldn't be running 1500# bars on my Blue Ox Sway Pro? That doesn't seem right. Correct me if I'm wrong, thanks!

[rsaylor3]

First, follow the Blue Ox set up instructions and take extra lengths until it's right. Make sure you are looking at their most recent instructions though.

As for the ball sticking, it's probably from the tension of the truck pulling on the trailer. I always shift to neutral and let the truck settle out naturally after chauking the wheels if the camper where I want it. This takes that pressure off the ball. Very rarely I will have to give a little push on the bumper with my foot.

When I went to the 3/4 ton truck from the 1/2, I went back through the setup guide and found I had to adjust both the ball height in the hitch and my number of links taken.

Good luck and it's worth all the trouble to get it set up right. You'll thank yourself when you feel it riding and handling better.

[camperforlife]

Retired JSO wrote:

73guna wrote:

Retired JSO wrote:
I use a BOSP with 2000 lb bars and till get a sag in the 8th link. Dry tongue weight just over 660. Does not make any difference if the golfcart is loaded in the toy hauler or not.

Did you try taking up to the 9th or 10th link and adjust hitch head height as needed?

Just curious, why the 2000lb bars?

I can't physically get another chain link with the jack all the way up and using a 24" breaker bar. I went to the 2000 lb bars when the 1500 lb bars bought with the hitch would bend like a pretzel. Even these 2000 lb bars are bent pretty bad under load.

You may want to get a stronger jack. I went from a 3k jack to a 4k jack and it made all the difference in the world getting the right link hitched without straining or worrying about kick back when releasing.

[Retired_JSO]

73guna wrote:

Retired JSO wrote:
I use a BOSP with 2000 lb bars and till get a sag in the 8th link. Dry tongue weight just over 660. Does not make any difference if the golfcart is loaded in the toy hauler or not.

Did you try taking up to the 9th or 10th link and adjust hitch head height as needed?

Just curious, why the 2000lb bars?

I can't physically get another chain link with the jack all the way up and using a 24" breaker bar. I went to the 2000 lb bars when the 1500 lb bars bought with the hitch would bend like a pretzel. Even these 2000 lb bars are bent pretty bad under load.

[Community Alumni]

Mike Up wrote:

What I'm saying is that if he can't get the F250 level with the "1500 lbs" WDH spring bars, then he surely was overloading his F150 Hitch as the F250 hitch is rated at 1400 lbs tongue weight and the F150 hitch weight is rated at only "1050 lbs."

He should not be using anything more than 1000 lbs spring bars on the F150 as it's max hitch weight is 1050 lbs., not 1500 lbs as the bars that were used.

I use to own a 2010 F150 as well.

BTW, F250 w/Diesel hitch rating is 1,400 lbs with 2.5" hitch or F250 w/6.2L Gas hitch rating is 1,250 lbs with 2" hitch.

Just about bought a '16 F250 right before I bought my '16 F150. I needed better mileage than the F250 since I commute with my truck and still have great payload and tow capacity on the F150.

I see what you're saying. My mistake. I was thinking of the Class V hitch for the Super Duty.

[ajk170]

Mike-up- Maybe I need to play with getting the weight of the coupler off the ball more. Several times it would appear I'm raising my truck (the 250) too much but that could just be me being overly concerned. I think you're right, normally the spouse is operating the jack while I'm waiting to pull forward an clear and she has a heckova time. Thanks!

[Mike_Up]

ajk170 wrote:
Mike-up, you're right, I totally overloaded the F150. It was the same TT (2015 316RL) with the BOSP at 1500# bars. I didn't know any better an the dealer said it would work. I was flying blind- luckily I made several trips and lived to tell about them. Those were also the reasons I traded put to the 2013 6.7 Ford diesel. I do think I need to adjust he hitch head a bit and maybe try to tighten the links but I am concerned about over tightening and getting the steering too squirrily. But for the sake of testing, I'll pull the hitch head up and also take the appropriate measurements.

If the TT is hard to get off the hitch head as I'm currently configured, is that a symptom of too much weight or pressure on the hitch head and not riding level? There are time when I need to sand on the hitch to pop the ball off the receiver or raise and lower the hitch until it pops off. I don't use a grease but I do use Silcon spray prior to hook up and just before uncoupling. Seems odd that it would need a lot of force or work to get the hitch ball off the receiver.

I use white grease on my hitch ball. Usually I can just push on the rear bumper with my hand and the ball breaks loose from the coupler. You do have to have the weight of the coupler off of the ball and on to the foot of tongue though.

Alway oil your coupler lock lever as it can bind up not allowing the coupler to come off of the ball. I once had to use a rubber mallet and a lot of WD40 before the lever would break free allowing the coupler to come off of the ball. Now I regularly spray it with WD40 as I do many things.

[ajk170]

Mike-up, you're right, I totally overloaded the F150. It was the same TT (2015 316RL) with the BOSP at 1500# bars. I didn't know any better an the dealer said it would work. I was flying blind- luckily I made several trips and lived to tell about them. Those were also the reasons I traded put to the 2013 6.7 Ford diesel. I do think I need to adjust he hitch head a bit and maybe try to tighten the links but I am concerned about over tightening and getting the steering too squirrily. But for the sake of testing, I'll pull the hitch head up and also take the appropriate measurements.

If the TT is hard to get off the hitch head as I'm currently configured, is that a symptom of too much weight or pressure on the hitch head and not riding level? There are time when I need to sand on the hitch to pop the ball off the receiver or raise and lower the hitch until it pops off. I don't use a grease but I do use Silcon spray prior to hook up and just before uncoupling. Seems odd that it would need a lot of force or work to get the hitch ball off the receiver.

[Mike_Up]

proxim2020 wrote:

Mike Up wrote:

BTW, if you're using same trailer and same Blue Ox Sway Pro system that you had on your F150, boy were you overloading the receiver hitch of that F150. Looks like you're right at the limit of your F250 hitch.

I thought all of the F150s that had a rating over 5,000 lbs came with Class IV hitches 10,000 / 1050 hitches. The new 250s come with a Class IV rated at 16,000 / 1600 or 12,000 / 1,250 using the sleeve.

What I'm saying is that if he can't get the F250 level with the "1500 lbs" WDH spring bars, then he surely was overloading his F150 Hitch as the F250 hitch is rated at 1400 lbs tongue weight and the F150 hitch weight is rated at only "1050 lbs."

He should not be using anything more than 1000 lbs spring bars on the F150 as it's max hitch weight is 1050 lbs., not 1500 lbs as the bars that were used.

I use to own a 2010 F150 as well.

BTW, F250 w/Diesel hitch rating is 1,400 lbs with 2.5" hitch or F250 w/6.2L Gas hitch rating is 1,250 lbs with 2" hitch.

Just about bought a '16 F250 right before I bought my '16 F150. I needed better mileage than the F250 since I commute with my truck and still have great payload and tow capacity on the F150.