Any other ideas while I have roof off?

[HappyCamper44]

Already in the process of taking the roof off of our 1997 27ft travel trailer, and thought I'd ask if anyone might have any "do's", "don'ts" or modifications other than what I have in my list below.

1-Repair/replace any damaged wood structure
2-going to run new RG6U Quad shield TV cable throughout
3-check/repair a/c duct work
4-add insulation if needed
5-add in switch/wiring for LED light strip outside under awning
6-move radio antenna from roof to exterior side wall

[HappyCamper44]

HappyCamper44 wrote:
Already in the process of taking the roof off of our 1997 27ft travel trailer, and thought I'd ask if anyone might have any "do's", "don'ts" or modifications other than what I have in my list below.

1-Repair/replace any damaged wood structure
2-going to run new RG6U Quad shield TV cable throughout
3-check/repair a/c duct work
4-add insulation if needed
5-add in switch/wiring for LED light strip outside under awning
6-move radio antenna from roof to exterior side wall

In case I missed replying to anyone, THANKS for all the tips! I knew there had to be some things we weren't thinking of. We did everything on the list here except moving the radio antenna, plus made use of the tips here that we would benefit from in our use of the camper. Had to stop working on it today just after getting the new insulation installed. Hope to get the new plywood, and membrane on it in the next day or two. It's been an interesting, but surprisingly easy, and straight forward project. Happy we decided to tackle it. 🙂

[HappyCamper44]

srd357 wrote:
Add additional wood blockers where the awning bolts to. If you have
rafters, with a jack on the inside, push up to restore the crown. Then clue and screw 5/8 or 3/4 plywood to the rafters so that they will never sag again. Glue and screw 3/8" plywood down for the deck and round off the edges. Do not reuse the factory termination strip that will allow standing water to find it's way into the trailer. Have your new roof over the front and rear caps, on sloping surface, and use 8" Eternbond Tape to hold it down. Standing water is your enemy!!

Adding more blocking in for an awning was a great tip. The original awning wasn't on it when I bought the camper, so having the roof off gave me the opportunity to add plenty of blocking in for which ever length awning we decide on getting. I also read up on that Eternabond tape, and plan on using it on every penetration, and each end before I use the self leveling sealant. Pricey stuff, but if it keeps salt water out of pipes in the ocean, it's more than worth it to use on a camper roof.

[HappyCamper44]

beemerphile1 wrote:
Sirius/XM radio antenna? Regular radio antenna? Add vents? Add skylight?

Really want to get crazy, add a skydeck!

We debated on moving the AM/FM antenna to the side of the camper, but decided to mount it back on top where it was. Glad my wife doesn't read this forum....lol....I would so be on the hook to build a deck on top with removable railings so she could watch NASCAR races from the top of it!

[HappyCamper44]

opnspaces wrote:
Check and secure all the wiring connections to the ceiling lights. We've had people on the forum before with a loose ground in the ceiling and no way to get to it.

I always thought I would add a piece of 1/4 inch ply around the AC and all other roof penetrations and under the rubber roof. The thought is to make the penetrations higher than the surrounding roof so that water will run off and can't puddle around the opening creating a leak. I'm not sure though if the rubber would lay down smooth though.

Redo and reseal all marker lights.

Definitely reseal all the duct work. But use the real metal duct tape and not the cloth $1 a roll cheap stuff that we all like to call duct tape. Link

Checking the low volt wiring was a great tip. We replaced some of the wiring that didn't have much slack left, and made better connections on quite a few others. Couldn't believe it, but the low volt wiring they used between the thermostat and A/C was just 4 wires wound together with no outer shielding. Luckily my neighbor is an A/C repairman, and gave me 20 feet of new wire to replace it. We did find that the factory had installed a half sheet of extra 1/4" plywood under the A/C to raise it up. It was in great shape so we left it, and plan on running our new plywood over it as well. To our surprise, the duct work wasn't too bad. Just had to seal 3 places with new aluminum duct tape.

[HappyCamper44]

93Cobra2771 wrote:
Insulation would be my priority. Due to the small amount of area, paying someone to come in and spray foam would be ideal.

The ductwork is horribly insulated as well, so it would be awesome to get it sealed up nicely.

If you've ever considered any LED strip lighting inside, now would be the time to run the wires for it. And definitely run wiring for any outside LED under awning and such.

Might even be a good time to sketch out a wiring diagram of what is in there, just so you will know if needed, in the future.

Did I mention insulation? 🙂

Once the plywood was off, it was a no brainer on replacing the insulation. It was about 3 inches thick so there was a large air gap between it and the plywood. It was even thin enough to see through! lol. Bought some new insulation, and did it right. We did add in wiring for an exterior LED strip under the awning, and fished the wiring into the wall for a switch to operate it. Now I just need to order a switch for it. Can't wait to see it lit up.

[HappyCamper44]

gbopp wrote:
Maybe you can upgrade to a better insulation and install additional or double the 'rafters' to strengthen the roof?

I did upgrade the insulation. What was up there was MAYBE 3 inches thick, and didn't come close to filling the void. Especially in the middle. You could even hold it up to the sky and see through it. Never had an issue keeping it cool, or warm, but surely this will make a difference if we ever decide to camp in the hot summer or cold winter months.

[srd357]

Add additional wood blockers where the awning bolts to. If you have
rafters, with a jack on the inside, push up to restore the crown. Then clue and screw 5/8 or 3/4 plywood to the rafters so that they will never sag again. Glue and screw 3/8" plywood down for the deck and round off the edges. Do not reuse the factory termination strip that will allow standing water to find it's way into the trailer. Have your new roof over the front and rear caps, on sloping surface, and use 8" Eternbond Tape to hold it down. Standing water is your enemy!!

[beemerphile1]

Sirius/XM radio antenna? Regular radio antenna? Add vents? Add skylight?

Really want to get crazy, add a skydeck!

[1L243]

I like the wire chase and solar idea....I would do that for sure...

[opnspaces]

Check and secure all the wiring connections to the ceiling lights. We've had people on the forum before with a loose ground in the ceiling and no way to get to it.

I always thought I would add a piece of 1/4 inch ply around the AC and all other roof penetrations and under the rubber roof. The thought is to make the penetrations higher than the surrounding roof so that water will run off and can't puddle around the opening creating a leak. I'm not sure though if the rubber would lay down smooth though.

Redo and reseal all marker lights.

Definitely reseal all the duct work. But use the real metal duct tape and not the cloth $1 a roll cheap stuff that we all like to call duct tape. Link

[93Cobra2771]

Insulation would be my priority. Due to the small amount of area, paying someone to come in and spray foam would be ideal.

The ductwork is horribly insulated as well, so it would be awesome to get it sealed up nicely.

If you've ever considered any LED strip lighting inside, now would be the time to run the wires for it. And definitely run wiring for any outside LED under awning and such.

Might even be a good time to sketch out a wiring diagram of what is in there, just so you will know if needed, in the future.

Did I mention insulation? 🙂

[old_guy]

is the TT going to be worthy of such an upgrade.

[stevekk]

You might prewire just in case you or a future owner wants to add Solar.

[gbopp]

Maybe you can upgrade to a better insulation and install additional or double the 'rafters' to strengthen the roof?