Anyone with experience towing with a Suburban

[andrewwm]

Hi, I’d like to hear from people who have experience towing a larger travel trailer with a Suburban. I have a Suburban 1500 5.3L. I want to buy the largest travel trailer my suburban can safely tow. This will be my first travel trailer. I have towed many small trailers and cars on trailers. It will be me my wife and two small children on the trip. We would like as big as we can for space as it will be long trip visiting several towns for weeks at a time.

I’m not so concerned about weigh but I am concerned about length and sway as I’m currently considering a 25 foot outback weighing about 4,500lbs unladen and another 29 foot travel trailer weighing 5,500lbs unladen. If you can give advice from experience on length and sway that would be really appreciated. All advice from experience is appreciated but I’d also really like to hear from those who have towed with a suburban.

Below is an explanation why I’m not as concerned about weights – basically GCWR is probably my limiting factor and I plan to keep within my weight ratings.

Weights – I’ve checked the ratings on my Suburban. From the manual and after checking my gear ratio it has a 7,500lbs max trailer weight and 13,000lbs max GCWR. I had checked on websites such as Edmunds which stated my Suburban would weigh about 5,000lbs. Fortunately, I weighed it with a full tank of gas and nothing else in it but me. The actual weight with me was 5,760lbs (I’m about 200lbs). So before I even add gear to the Suburban/trailer and passengers the max weight of my trailer is limited by the GCWR to 7240lbs.
My rear axle is rated to 4000lbs with tires rated to 2400lbs each. When I weighed it my rear axle had 2760lbs on it. The manual states a maximum tongue weight of 1,200lbs which gives me a trailer weight assuming 15% tongue load of 1200/0.15=8000lbs. So if I don’t put too much weight in the suburban it looks like tongue weight is not my limiting factor. It looks like my GCWR will be.

Thanks

[colliehauler]

Tire pressure should be on the sidewall of the tire. If it's a 15 inch tire it should be 65#.

[andrewwm]

Thanks for all the advice. So a few days ago we bought a 2005 Extreme Sportsmaster 29foot with one slide that weighs unladen 5600lbs.

We bought it in Idaho at about 6000 feet elevation and have towed it here with the Suburban a few times just to get practice and see how it tows. Seems to tow just fine. Haven't taken it on any really steep hills yet as I am still adjusting everything for weight distribution and adjusting the settings on the brake controller.

We got at Tekonsha P3 brake controller. A Husky weight Distributing hitch with 800lb trunion bars which we have been driving with.

I also ordered one Husky friction anti sway bar. Although no issues with sway yet. I plan to order a second as the Husky website recommends two if you go over 25 feet.

I have been trying to find a manual for the trailer online and can't. Does anyone know what pressure should be in the trailer tires?

Staying at my cousins who lives on a dead end road, so also had practice backing into his driveway. Which currently takes about 10 minutes each time.

[LVJJJ]

I wouldn't recommending using a TT that's much heavier than the TV. Plus, I don't think the 5.3 engine has a enuff power to tow that much weight comfortabley. The 6.0 is much better. I've had a 6.0 in a Roadtrek Class B that would haul the Roadtrek's 8000 lbs and a 4000 pound TT and got 11 mpg.

[fallsrider]

Second Chance wrote:
...We pulled with a 2005 5.3 that only had the 4-speed transmission. In the mountains, we were sometimes stuck behind the 18-wheelers at 15 - 20 MPH in the climbing lane at 4,000 RPM. That was almost as hard on me as it was the tow vehicle. I also didn't like the wider spacing between the gears with the result huge jump or drop in RPM as the tranny up- or down-shifted...

I have the same issue with my '05. I wish there was another gear between 1st and 2nd, and between 2nd and 3rd. 1st is low enough, and 3rd is high enough. The jumps between gears are just too large. I would love the 6 speed tranny, I think. I have just learned to live with a few higher rpms before letting it shift to the next gear. I manually shift a lot to help it along, especially if I am taking off on a slight incline. I will hold it back and make it rev a little more before shifting up to the next gear.

[schultzs]

I've been pulling 28-29' trailers with Suburbans for about 20 yrs. Use WD/equalizers and have not had problems except under drastic conditions.Keep it under 65. 5.7/5.3 engines with good rear end 3.73? I power up mountains with no problem, engine just down shifts. LOVE my truck.

[Second_Chance]

burnmark wrote:
We had a 2003 Sub 1500 with the 5.3 and 3.73 rear end. Pulled a 30 foot, 6500 lb trailer. WDH and a friction sway bar. Ultimately I upgraded from P to LT tires, better shocks and GOOD maintenance. We towed in the mountains and flat. IT did OK. NOt great, OK. It revs really high, almost scary climbing, and slows down..
Pay attention to all the tips from here - tongue weight, WDH set up and stay witin your limit.

m

I agree with all the advice on here about weights, payload, etc., but want to emphasize what burnmark said regarding engine revs, etc. With the 5.3 a lot depends on the year and what transmission is in the vehicle. We pulled with a 2005 5.3 that only had the 4-speed transmission. In the mountains, we were sometimes stuck behind the 18-wheelers at 15 - 20 MPH in the climbing lane at 4,000 RPM. That was almost as hard on me as it was the tow vehicle. I also didn't like the wider spacing between the gears with the result huge jump or drop in RPM as the tranny up- or down-shifted. There also wasn't much there in the way of engine compression (even in tow-haul mode) to slow the rig down on the the downhill side. I've not towed with a newer model with the 6-speed auto - moved up to a 3/4 ton diesel... a lot more relaxed on the road, now.

[PAThwacker]

burnmark wrote:
Further to my experience, friends of ours with a big family - 6 kids, tow with a 1/2 ton Sub. They had a 30' TT that they absolutely struggled with. They sold it, and bought a KZ hybrid, probably 24' closed? Much lighter, and their travels have expanded hugely, and much more comfortably.

m

That should a stickie. Nobody should load a half ton suburban's seats and expect to be able to tow anything.

[rrev]

We have a 2002 Yukon XL and an Equalizer wd hitch with 1500# bars and a friction sway bar (probably overkill but i got a great deal on it used) that we pulled our 28ft 6000# trailer with for 3 seasons. It did fairly well. You're not going to win any speed contests but it did good. You kind of get to play the hill game but we were fine with it. I never have had any sway issues but I made sure that the hitch was set up properly.

[N7SJN]

I've had the same experience as Dadio24. Pulling 30' @7K.

[redwing10]

Have a 97 2500SUB with 454 373 gears with a new 25Y arctic Fox, tow the trailer from WA to CO for the 1st time 7500 Lbs with a 3P pro pride hitch. Great tow but tranny was hot 250 degrees up 6-7 % grades and 35 -40 mph at top of hill. Pulled good drove great but bought a Durmax as we drive mnts all the time. Flat land would be ok but not enough power in mnts,

Tom

[rbpru]

Find the TT and floor plan you like. Rent a similar sized unit. You will learn a lot.

We did.

[andrewwm]

Thanks again for all the excellent advice. I don't know when the rear axle last had an oil change, I didn't pay too much attention to that, but I will do it now with 75w90 and install an extra capacity cover. The transmission had the fluid changed 20,000 miles ago at an independent garage, I'll get it flushed and changed to Dexron IV fluid before we leave on the big trip in July. I'll also get one of those bluetooth senders for the OBD system to monitor transmission temp. I need to spend some time looking into the right hitch and sway control. For picking up the travel trailer my friend has offered to do it with his brand new F-250, so I'll have time to adjust the hitch and get it all set up right before going on any trips, there are CAT scales 2 miles from my house. I'm going to have another look at the trailers and discuss it with my wife. I really like the idea of the 29 foot for space, but of course the 25 foot is better for towing. Our plan is to stay at campgrounds with hook-ups for most of this year.

[burnmark]

Further to my experience, friends of ours with a big family - 6 kids, tow with a 1/2 ton Sub. They had a 30' TT that they absolutely struggled with. They sold it, and bought a KZ hybrid, probably 24' closed? Much lighter, and their travels have expanded hugely, and much more comfortably.

m

[intheburbs]

BurbMan makes some good points. To add a little:

I used Royal Purple MaxATF in the transmission (Dexron III equivalent). My friend now owns the truck, and it has 195k miles, and the transmission still functions/shifts perfectly.

I installed an HD gauge cluster in the Burb. The truck is already pre-wired, so once I plugged in the HD cluster, I had a functioning trans temp gauge. I don't like the tacked-on look of aftermarket stuff. The OEM cooler always was sufficient - the transmission was never more than 100° over the ambient temperature.

GM specifies full synthetic 75W90 for the rear axle. No need to use something different, just change it regularly. My interval was 15,000 miles whenever I'd take a long trip.

Your Autoride Burb does indeed have a self-leveling system. To quote from the link provided by BurbMan (03 manual, page 4-58):

The automatic level control rear suspension is available
on C/K 1500 vehicles and comes as a part of the
AutorideTM suspension.
This type of level control is fully automatic and will
provide a better leveled riding position as well as better
handling under a variety of passenger and loading
conditions. An air compressor connected to the rear
shocks will raise or lower the rear of the vehicle
to maintain proper vehicle height. The system is
activated when the ignition key is turned to RUN and
will automatically adjust vehicle height thereafter.
The system may exhaust (lower vehicle height) for up to
ten minutes after the ignition key has been turned off.
You may hear the air compressor operating when
the height is being adjusted.
If a self-equalizing hitch is being used, it is
recommended to allow the shocks to inflate, thereby
leveling the vehicle prior to adjusting the hitch.

The one caveat to the self-leveling suspension - there's no tipoff that you're overloading the rear axle because the truck isn't squatting.

[BurbMan]

Hi Andrewwm, welcome to the forum!!

The 25' TT that weighs 4500 dry would be a better match for the Suburban. Figure it will likely weigh 5500 or so packed to travel, and more with water. The longer 29' is probably do-able also but you will be right up against the ratings of the truck with no margin.

I would strongly recommend a transmission temp gauge so you can keep an eye on temps...the factory cooler is usually adequate under most conditions, but some have upgraded for severe hill climbing in the mountains, etc. If you don't want to have a gauge installed, you can buy an inexpensive bluetooth diagnostic sender like this OBD Link MX Bluetooth. It plugs into the OBD-II port and you can monitor temps via an app on your cell phone or tablet.

If you haven't had the tranny serviced in a while, you should be sure you have Dexron VI fluid. The Dex VI is full synthetic and replaces the Dex III that came in your burb, and is no longer licensed by GM to be made. If you have the service done at the dealer, they will put in Dex VI, if you do it yourself, be sure to buy Dex VI at the parts store, not the generic "Dex/Merc".

I would also recommend synthetic fluid in the rear axle, along with a Mag-Hytec extra capacity cover. As intheburbs noted, the rear axle is a weak link on the 1500 burbs.

Your 1500 burb with Autoride does have the air-powered auto-leveling system on the rear. Look here in the 2003 Owner's manual, pages 4-56 thru 4-70, it tells you everything you need to know about towing including how to set your WD hitch with Autoride. (Geotex1, your 2500 does NOT have auto rear leveling as part of Autoride, and nothing "pumps the shocks up").

Regarding sway control, the Hensley Arrow or ProPride are the best you can get. These hitches are designed with a 4-bar linkage that prevents the trailer from swaying. They are pricey, but you can also find them used on Craigs List and elsewhere. If not in the budget then I would recommend the Reese Strait-Line as a good hitch that is used by many here on teh forum with good results reported.

EMD_DRIVER wrote:
My friend simply let-off the gas pedal. Nothing more. No wind effects and not another vehicle.

Sorry, but there is more to this story. If you crest a hill and start down the other side then let off the gas, the TT is going to want to push the truck. Granted this is a vulnerable time for sway but it just doesn't start on its own with no outside factors.