Axle Bearing Service - Dos and Dont's???

[Baja_Man]

Trailer: 2011 Keystone 25RS
GVWR: 7500#
Axles, bearings, brakes, etc. have never been serviced. (the way I purchased from original owner)
Mileage: Approx. 10,000

Considering servicing my own bearings, seals, and potentially brakes. I'm pretty handy and have plenty of tools. I have never serviced travel trailer bearings before. Boat trailer bearings, seals, races, hubs, YES......but not travel trailer axles, bearings, seals, brakes, magnets.

A few questions I have been pondering:

Are there any good step by step procedures or videos you can refer me to?

Are brake drums turned?

When are brake shoes replaced?

Are magnets replaced? How do you inspect and what to look for in terms of wear, required thickness, etc?

Where can I source Timken bearings and quality USA seals?


Many thanks!

[deltabravo]

Here's my video on repacking bearings

I stopped using cheap Wal-Mart grease after watching this video

[Vintage465]

Baja Man wrote:
Thank you all for the tips and advice! It helped tremendously.

Cleaned bearings with kerosene. Inspected and they looked to be in great shape. No gouged or discolored rollers and no dark spots on bearing housings. Races were all smooth, no gouges and no dark spots...ALL looked like new!

Completed the brake service and bearing repack. All went well except for the last wheel (it figures!).
One brake wire had rubbed some of the vinyl coating off (about 3/4"). I cut the bad section of wire, stripped and used a marine heat shrink butt connector. I also used some liquid tape and on an other wheel where some vinyl had scrapped off. I also filed down one of the EZ Lube entry holes on one side of axle....hole edge was a little sharp.

Lucas Red N Tacky grease and National Seals.

Adjusted brakes by opening shoes until wheel locked and the backed off 5-7 clicks until only a slight rub could be felt/heard.

Lining was between 1/8" (on one shoe) and the rest were closer to 3/16".

Used my new ICON race and seal driver.....worked perfect!

Glad this all worked out. It is a good skill to have and there is much comfort to be had rolling down the road know what you're rolling on!

[Baja_Man]

Thank you all for the tips and advice! It helped tremendously.

Cleaned bearings with kerosene. Inspected and they looked to be in great shape. No gouged or discolored rollers and no dark spots on bearing housings. Races were all smooth, no gouges and no dark spots...ALL looked like new!

Completed the brake service and bearing repack. All went well except for the last wheel (it figures!).
One brake wire had rubbed some of the vinyl coating off (about 3/4"). I cut the bad section of wire, stripped and used a marine heat shrink butt connector. I also used some liquid tape and on an other wheel where some vinyl had scrapped off. I also filed down one of the EZ Lube entry holes on one side of axle....hole edge was a little sharp.

Lucas Red N Tacky grease and National Seals.

Adjusted brakes by opening shoes until wheel locked and the backed off 5-7 clicks until only a slight rub could be felt/heard.

Lining was between 1/8" (on one shoe) and the rest were closer to 3/16".

Used my new ICON race and seal driver.....worked perfect!

[Baja_Man]

I wanted to thank EVERYONE for the suggestions, advice, charts, pics, etc. It is ALL very helpful.
I put the advice/suggestions into action!

BTW...I used a Trailer Aid Plus and it did a great job of lifting adjacent wheel of the ground 1"-2". Great and easy to use product. If I ever get a flay and need to change tire/wheel, this will come in very handy! NO jacking involved!

I did purchase a race and seal driver (HF ICON brand) and already had the Lisle bearing packer. I may not have needed the race and seal driver, but I wanted it!!

I was able to pull wheels and inspect everything. Bearings and races appear good (no pits, gouges, or signs of blueing/overheating). Bearings are made in China and sizes are L68149 and L67048.
I have AL-KO 4400# axles.

I've attached a few pics of brakes, hubs, etc.

Upon inspection, I have a few questions. My brake references are based on the attached pic of backing plate of drivers/left side of trailer - front/forward drum:

1. I noticed that the magnet arm appears loose, and when I push/move it to the left, only the right side brake shoe moves outwards towards drum. Is this correct? If so, when does the left shoe move?

2. Right brake show mentioned above, is down to approx. 1/16" of lining. Left shoe has approx double the lining. This is probably due to right shoe moving and not sure if left show is moving at all.

3. Wear holes in magnet appear to still have some depth. I believe they are good.

4. There are no gouges and deep scratches in the drums wear surfaces. Also, no blueing or signs of overheating. I believe they are good.

5. I do see the brake wires plastic/rubber cover has split. Is there something better than electrical tape for covering these wires? I am unable to get heat shrink tubing over wires.

6. Checked spindle and small hole where grease exits (from EZ lube zirc fitting) and all appears in good shape and no gouges and sharp edges.

What else am I missing?
Is there more to be inspected?

Was considering changing bearings/races over to Made in USA Timkens. Thoughts?

Thanks!

[JIMNLIN]

Baja Man wrote:
Is the Lucas Red n Tacky considered a very good grease or average run of the mill? I was wanting Timken, but it is not readily available.

Its great stuff along with Redline synthetic grease. I use both in caulking tube size for all my trucks/rv and non rv trailers/cars/tractors/FEL and its implements.
All my trailers bearing had one or the other.

[Baja_Man]

Is the Lucas Red n Tacky considered a very good grease or average run of the mill? I was wanting Timken, but it is not readily available.

[Baja_Man]

Mike134 wrote:
Don't think it was mentioned but those holes on the face of the brake magnet are wear indicators. When they get worn off time for a new magnet. Remember the strength of an electromagnet depends on the mass of metal. Less metal less braking.

Thanks for tip; I'll be checking the magnets.

[Mike134]

Don't think it was mentioned but those holes on the face of the brake magnet are wear indicators. When they get worn off time for a new magnet. Remember the strength of an electromagnet depends on the mass of metal. Less metal less braking.

[Grit_dog]

Yup. Same stuff.

[Baja_Man]

It's cooled off down to mid 80sF in my area. So I'll now be performing the bearing service over this week and next. Great info was shared on this thread and I'll be using it to guide my work.

As far as wheel bearing grease, what is the preferred grease for the RV Trailer application?
Is it the same grease as for autos/trucks wheel bearings?

Thanks

[klutchdust]

Highway 4x4 wrote:
I found a bad bearing and race about 2 years ago and bought Timken bearings and races for all 4. I did the bad one and had a heck of a time getting the races in even with the tools. I inspected the others without replacement and repacked with Mobile 1 full syn bearing grease, (red) and all is still OK.
I remember when bearings and races were sold as a set and you never mixed them. With my new Timkens the bearings and races are sold separately and can be mixed. I am guessing once they have been installed and run it's best not to mix them.

In fleet operations bearings were cleaned and re installed without regard for the position they were in during the disassemble. rarely did we have a bearing failure in a fleet of over 10K units.

[Highway_4x4]

I found a bad bearing and race about 2 years ago and bought Timken bearings and races for all 4. I did the bad one and had a heck of a time getting the races in even with the tools. I inspected the others without replacement and repacked with Mobile 1 full syn bearing grease, (red) and all is still OK.
I remember when bearings and races were sold as a set and you never mixed them. With my new Timkens the bearings and races are sold separately and can be mixed. I am guessing once they have been installed and run it's best not to mix them.

[Vintage465]

Baja Man wrote:
quick update....

I waited too long to complete this service and now it's too dang hot to do this work outside!!

As soon as it cools I will git er done!

Info on Timken Bearings Set 17 (L68149/L68111)......

Amazon show images of bearings that have USA imprinted on them, but under "Technical Details" it states country of origin as China. Some Amazon reviewers state that they received bearings Made in USA. I may chance it and return if not USA made. I'm not even sure if stamped USA means made in USA or assembled in USA.

Called Summit Racing today and had them check on the same bearings. Customer service has information that is not available on their website that includes builder/manufacturer information. They looked them up and assured me their info states, "Country of Origin: USA."

I hope this information helps those that prefer to use Timken bearings.

I heard and read the same thing regarding where the bearings are made. So far every set of Timken's I've bought from Amazon have been made in the USA. Though, the Timken seals seem to come from Taiwan or Mexico.

[Billyk]

Just had my bearings packed at tire store 500 bucks