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Best Four Season Travel Trailer

csh_2088
Explorer II
Explorer II
I would like to know which Travel Trailer is the best for use in the winter time. I have heard Bigfoot is really good but they are kind of expensive.
15 REPLIES 15

TurnThePage
Explorer
Explorer
I would like to add that "Escape" trailers have their tanks and some plumbing exposed under the trailer, and I don't think the floor has any insulation on its own. Definitely not winter grade in my opinion. They do offer to add spray foam down there which I'm sure helps.

If you're talking about having an actual mobile RV for winter camping, it's gonna cost. Otherwise, you can take almost any unit and make it survivable over a winter.
2015 Ram 1500
2022 Grand Design Imagine XLS 22RBE

marcsbigfoot20b
Explorer
Explorer
I have a 2000 Bigfoot 27 foot. Bigfoot costs more but you get what you pay for if you need it for cold...or hot.

The things that make them work well are, Thermopane dual pane windows, big BTU heaters, very good insulation on all 6 sides, no slides, heated and enclosed tanks and valves, water tank in living space (like under bed) and water lines run through floor heater ducts, etc. They dont usually leak air as in if you have everything closed and turn on a fantastic fan you can hear the difference when you crack a window open.
Propane tanks are also enclosed.

As long as you have enough propane and solar to keep up with the heater blower motor, you are good to go.

On a side note, same with Phoenix 116 degree heat. Only difference is that it takes waaay more propane to run my built in generator for the air conditioning, but it will stay low 70s inside even in the sun.

Durb
Explorer
Explorer
I had a 25' Bigfoot and used it in 100+ and just below freezing. I can't say their insulation is super but they are tight and don't swap much air with the outdoors. The nature of their interior design reduces the cubes which make them fast to heat and cool. Moisture mitigation is something to be cognizant of because they don't breathe well. This could be why Bigfoot does not recommend them for full time use. Their frames are massive and the roofs are solid so snow buildup wouldn't be a problem. Lot of foul weather security knowing the roof won't leak.

If you buy used, your cost will be high. You will be able to sell it high on the back end so net cost of ownership is low. Sold mine for what I paid, used it 5 years for just maintenance costs.

rbpru
Explorer II
Explorer II
The bottom line is if you want 4 seasons. You want heated tanks, double glass windows and other weather related changes. They cost money.
Twenty six foot 2010 Dutchmen Lite pulled with a 2011 EcoBoost F-150 4x4.

Just right for Grandpa, Grandma and the dog.

Skibane
Explorer II
Explorer II
^Yes, catalytic heater manufacturers typically recommend a 2"x 12" (or similar 24 square inch) opening for ventilation.

Being completely silent in operation and not requiring any electrical power more than make up for this inconvenience.

canoe_on_top
Explorer
Explorer
I know that catalytic heaters have a lot of safeguards but, they still consume oxygen.I have friends that use them although they turn the off when they are sleeping. I have never been a fan of combustion inside other than the stove while cooking. I leave one or more ceiling vents open slightly to deal with condensation. I would not consider that adequate to replace consumed oxygen.

Skibane
Explorer II
Explorer II
canoe on top wrote:
I have been comfortable in my Artic Fox at a bit below zero. I have factory storm windows which, apparently, they no longer make. Thermopane would be the next, best thing.


One trick is to install heat-to-shrink window film on the inside of all windows that don't need to be opened during the winter.



The film isn't quite as good an insulator as a second glass pane, but it's MUCH better than nothing.

If you are looking at four season, remember that the dump valves have to be enclosed and heated, not just the tanks. Tank heaters are, also good.


Many cold-weather campers simply stop using the toilet and shower in sub-freezing weather.

The fresh water tank and associated plumbing can sometimes still be used to a degree, if they share the same heated air space with the occupants.

Winter camping pretty much requires 120 power. Ideally, shore power, otherwise, you will be running your generator quite a bit to keep the batteries charged because of furnace use. Would require a pretty good battery bank and a lot of solar to go that route.


Catalytic heaters completely eliminate battery drain, but can still provide a lot of heat - One 8,000 BTU cat heater running full-time equals a 16,000 BTU furnace that runs 50% of the time.

canoe_on_top
Explorer
Explorer
You might look at the Arctic Fox or Nash 22G.

csh_2088
Explorer II
Explorer II
Arctic Fox are great but very expensive and big. I am looking for something smaller like the Bigfoot 17, Bigfoot 21, or the Escape 5.0.

canoe_on_top
Explorer
Explorer
I have been comfortable in my Artic Fox at a bit below zero. I have factory storm windows which, apparently, they no longer make. Thermopane would be the next, best thing. If you are looking at four season, remember that the dump valves have to be enclosed and heated, not just the tanks.Tank heaters are, also good.Winter camping pretty much requires 120 power. Ideally, shore power, otherwise, you will be running your generator quite a bit to keep the batteries charged because of furnace use. Would require a pretty good battery bank and a lot of solar to go that route.

Lwiddis
Explorer II
Explorer II
Even the "best" four season RVs need attention and care in freezing temps. My Winnie is also good at 20F...for limited time with the heater going.
Winnebago 2101DS TT & 2022 Chevy Silverado 1500 LTZ Z71, WindyNation 300 watt solar-Lossigy 200 AH Lithium battery. Prefer boondocking, USFS, COE, BLM, NPS, TVA, state camps. Bicyclist. 14 yr. Army -11B40 then 11A - (MOS 1542 & 1560) IOBC & IOAC grad

MFL
Nomad II
Nomad II
A 4-season TT may depend on where you are located. The closer you get to a true 4-season, the higher the price, and it will be heavier.

My FW is called 4-season, and works well, from experience, at 20 degrees. How much colder, IDK, but a few modifications would be needed to go to say 0-10 degrees.

Jerry

noteven
Explorer III
Explorer III
I have a 2007 one of these:

Roughneck trailers

I full time.

I have used it from 105F to -42F. At -42F you aren't leaving camp for too long you want to be sure of your electricity supply if you know what I mean. It is easy to keep the propane boiling if you know how.
Worst weather was -30F with a light breeze. Furnaces ran about 60% -70% of each hour I would say.

The decor and built ins are more full time working person style than staples and wafer board.

Oh and at 1400lbs on the hitch and 8900lbs dry and empty mine wants one of them "nuff trucks" to pull it. But it tows really nice and has lots of ground clearance.

Did I mention there are no slides to give trouble and let cold, drafts and flies in?

Old_Days
Explorer II
Explorer II
We bought a Outdoors Rv for a couple of reasons they have a solid frame with shocks, a 80 gallon water tank, 2 inch side walls and a curved roof. But also remember they are heavy you need a 3 quarter ton truck to pull them.