bike rack options for a TT / TV

[riven1950]

2007 Aerolite 718fd ( 4000lbs loaded ) pulled by 2013 F150 Eco Boost

We are currently carrying our 2 bikes in the truck bed which is ok but inconvenient. wondering if someone has a good option out there for us. Read some threads and can forget about using back bumper on the TT as there is none.

I see 5 options, not in any particular order:

1- Remove spare tire ( there is a spare tire mount on rear of TT and I am guessing someone makes a rack to fit it ), haul it in truck bed, install bike rack in its place. Anyone know how well these spare tire holders are attached to the wall of a TT? I am thinking it depends on the manufacturer and maybe day of week it was built. Mine appears solid but of course it doesn't have two bikes bouncing up and down on it either 🙂 Don't like not being able to see what is going on with the bikes while driving.

2-Install a rack on TT over the propane tank location. I have seen these online and if solid this may be my first choice based on what little I know so far. Would be out of the way and can still get to battery. Can see from truck if there is a problem of some sort while driving.

3-Install a rack over the hitch on rear of the truck. I think I have also seen these online. If solid would work ok but I think would be in the way more. Also not real crazy about bikes bouncing around the back end of my new truck.

4-Continue as is and lay them in truck bed.

5-other ideas??

Comments and suggestions appreciated. Info on particular makes / brands that are dependable would be nice.

Thanks,

[502_Jimmy]

The materials cost me about $65. I went to the local metal supply place and found cutoffs at a much reduced price.

The bike rack I used cost $350 when I bought it a few years ago. It is currently $395 on Amazon. Bike Rack

I went this route for two reasons. One, I had the time and skills to fabricate this, and two, I can use the rack in my truck or suburban by itself when I want.

Mine is way overbuilt, but IMO, a good thing. I also was under warranty at the time, so the "receiver frame" is not welded nor bolted to the frame. It uses plates that sandwich the trailer tongue itself.

Lastly, I bought a quality bike rack that will last for many years.

John

[riven1950]

502 Jimmy....would you mind giving me an idea what the materials and bike rack cost? Trying to figure out whether to pursue my welder friend on this. Of course I would pay him for his time but he would be reasonable.

Yours looks very sturdy compared to others I have seen. Plus a custom fit which I like.

[Lantley]

riven1950 wrote:
Dewey02.....Thanks for that info. I was actually thinking of hitting up a welder buddy of mine to custom build something similar. I like the idea that the platform / tray can be left on and used for other purposes too.

The Arvika is nice but I will have to think a while before paying 500.00+ for a rack to carry our two walmart bikes, although I do believe they are a good product. May go that route and consider it an investment over time 🙂

$500.00 is about what hiring a welder and buying a quality bike rack will cost

[Mickeyfan0805]

502_Jimmy wrote:
I built my own hitch for the front of the trailer and used a very good quality bike rack.

Nice work. I wish I could figure out how to make one without welding. I have no experience or equipment for welding - but would love a rack like that.

[502_Jimmy]

I built my own hitch for the front of the trailer and used a very good quality bike rack.

[riven1950]

Dewey02.....Thanks for that info. I was actually thinking of hitting up a welder buddy of mine to custom build something similar. I like the idea that the platform / tray can be left on and used for other purposes too.

The Arvika is nice but I will have to think a while before paying 500.00+ for a rack to carry our two walmart bikes, although I do believe they are a good product. May go that route and consider it an investment over time 🙂

[3_0charlie]

riven1950 wrote:

Lantley...I am liking the over tank mount. Will check out the Arvika more. Looked their website but was a bit confused as to which one I would need. Will do more research and maybe call them.

This is the model I use on my TT: DFX-400-C. And installed (sorry for the low quality crop):

[PAThwacker]

Front hitch and solid swagman 3 bike unit. I carry kids bike on the roof with a Thule rack. 2 Mountain bikes up front.

[AH64ID]

I can't speak for other trailers and frames but one of the reasons I went with my current TT is because they overbuild the frame/suspension/axles(designed for lots if dirt roads), and I knew I would end up wanting a hitch for bikes or a small 2nd trailer. I personally have a bigger/thicker frame, a-frame, suspension and axles than many of the toy haulers I have seen with 2-3K more GVWR. I have 2K lbs more axle nuns suspension than the arbitrary GVWR.

But the OP and others may not be in the same position.

[wmoses]

If I were ever to go on one of these 'factory tours' I would be most interested in seeing / talking to the engineering department. I would doubt that would be a part of the tour, but I don't know that for sure.

Putting it together (trailer assembly) would interest me for all of 15 minutes because judging from the end result one could have a pretty good impression as to how these are slapped together. In that 15 minutes I'd be interested in seeing how the design is translated to the final product via the assembly process. In most cases l have seen the latter function, if not tightly controlled by strong QC, is a leading cause for failure in a manually produced product. Operator error is also another leading cause.

Thanks for the failure pictures which can be pretty disturbing by themselves, however without knowing the actual loading, initial structural strength, material diminution, and other factors it is difficult to arrive at a proper conclusion on the inadequacy of these UL chassis.

[JJBIRISH]

The I beam used on most trailers has no structural integrity the light weight, narrow flange, and practically no webbing in the flange to beam area makes them look stronger that they really are IMHO…

The I beams are light duty and require cambering just to support the weight of the box mounted on them, even on the shorter trailers without sagging... Very few are engineered to carry much more than intended by the mfg. and sometimes not even that…

In addition to the dynamic loads involved that can cause this type damage in extreme cases…
In the picture each of those rust lines you see is a stress crack from overloading on one of the heavier RV I Beams that over extended use finally let go..



the side to side stress while turning causing damage like this is compounded by overloading the rear…

the beginning of a frame failure…

Another failure but farther along… It doesn’t help that the cross members are so small but this is also typical…



These pictures aren’t new and have been posted before… I had many more of them on my old computer…

[JJBIRISH]

riven1950 wrote:


JJBIRISH...I think you are right, that probably is the frame I have, which is why I am eliminating the rear mount bike rack of any kind, even with the bolt on frame hitch mentioned above. Are you saying the frame at the LP tank location would not handle another 100 lbs or so? I find that hard to believe. Gross TT weight is about 4700 lbs, my actual towing weight ( loaded ) was right at 4000. I hardly ever carry any water in my fresh water tank.


Thanks for all the advice / comments. Will be back after I do some more research...can't believe it but my GF says I am anal. 🙂

Sorry if I mislead you, I don’t know anything about the front trailer mounts for bikes, and know of no damage that has been caused by them… actually I have never seen one up close and is why I didn’t mention them… I think they look like a better alternative for on trailer mounting…

tell your GF being anal isn't always a bad trait...

[dewey02]

Here is another over-the-tanks option:

Trailer Tray sells for about $225.
I personally would not purchase their "Bike Bunk" option, because I don't like the hanging bike racks and prefer the tire-rack versions, which I believe are more stable.
I would then purchase and mount two separate Car top bike rack to the trailer tray. This is just an example, there are many that vary from cheap to expensive.

When not hauling bikes, the trailer Tray can be used to haul your generator, or whatever.
I've not yet done this, but plan on doing it when my trailer comes out of storage...tons of snow here right now.

[riven1950]

canadiankid..a hitch on front of truck is becoming my 2nd choice, although I am not sure I would call it cheap. bolt on are about 150.00 just for the hitch, then I have to buy a rack, and maybe an extention as charliegu58 says. Concerns are airflow ( eco boost intake is in that area ) to engine and radiator.

skipnchar..I don't have a ladder or rear bumper. I've pretty much eliminated the rear of the TT mount. No bumper, no ladder, only place is spare tire mount and not feeling good on that. Also, hitch weight is pretty light so would rather add weight up front than back.

Lantley...I am liking the over tank mount. Will check out the Arvika more. Looked their website but was a bit confused as to which one I would need. Will do more research and maybe call them.

DavisK...I would be afraid to add a hitch to my TT rear. Lightweight frame. No bumper, so maybe they were trying to tell me something.

Guess I should have said another reason I have for getting bikes out of truck bed is so I can rig up a way to carry 2 kayaks on occasion. So no truck covers or bed racks for me, but thanks for the input.

JJBIRISH...I think you are right, that probably is the frame I have, which is why I am eliminating the rear mount bike rack of any kind, even with the bolt on frame hitch mentioned above. Are you saying the frame at the LP tank location would not handle another 100 lbs or so? I find that hard to believe. Gross TT weight is about 4700 lbs, my actual towing weight ( loaded ) was right at 4000. I hardly ever carry any water in my fresh water tank.

wmoses...agree with what you said. Also, on the ladder I was wishing I had one in Fl about 4 weeks ago. Getting down to 35 overnight and one of my vents decided to fall off after dark. Had to scramble to borrow a ladder so I could do a duct tape repair.

I am going to first look at the over the tank mount on front of TT. Extra hitch weight is not a problem in my case and may even be a better ride. I can leave them on or take them off (bikes ). Can see them while going down road. @nd choice at this point is front hitch mount. Don't really want that because I don't want to look at the bikes while driving, also air flow to ECO and radiator issues. Also, if I make a slip loading or unloading and scratch something I'd rather it be my TT than my new truck.

Thanks for all the advice / comments. Will be back after I do some more research...can't believe it but my GF says I am anal. 🙂

[wmoses]

JJBIRISH wrote:
I have seen many chassis full of stress cracks to completely broken (so called) I beams… all most all of them were used for hauling something on the rear… evidenced by the crudely to commercially made hitches and bumper receiver riggings… those stresses effect the entire chassis even the tongue… I have hauled millions of gallons of liquid loads and would argue a normal RV black tank near the rear is a bogus argument in making comparisons here… but thats for another day...

Sure it always blamed on something else… Of course no respectable owner would ever admit to overloading anything… it will always be Lippert's fault or the trailer mfg.’s. fault, never something self-inflicted… :B
…

Way to many people do way too much with these light duty trailers…

I can agree with the above, especially the bit about the assignment of blame post-failure.