Black tank valve replacement Jayco 26BH

[OregonTRX4]

I have a new Jayco26BH and while dealing with a list of quality control problems I have found(not happy) the black tank leaked past the valve on the first use. I flushed it really good yesterday and got lots of metal shavings that are throughout the entire trailer from construction out of the tanks. I flushed the valve multiple times and have found it is still leaking so one of those shavings either ruined the seal or is lodged in there. I figured it shouldnt be hard to replace only to realize i have to remove the sealed underbelly to access the valve. Anyone have to unbolt their underbelly? I'm hoping its just a few screws to gain access to the valve. Nearest Jayco dealer is 100 miles away and would take a few trips just for a valve. They wont let me take it to a local place so i'm on my own to fix it.

Sorry for the rant..I just dont like having issues on something brand new..

[OregonTRX4]

I did, they told me take it to the dealer.

[spoon059]

Contact jayco and ask their advice. They could recommend a service facility other than jayco.

[OregonTRX4]

opnspaces wrote:


Oh and a new valve is $14 which is way cheaper than the gas to pull the trailer 100 miles.

Thanks for the reply. I bought a valve that goes on the end of the pipe for now, always wanted one for backup anyways. Ill tackle the main valve when I have the time.

[opnspaces]

I pulled the underbelly on my Jayco a few times. Look carefully at the screw heads, they are probably Robertson (square drive the looks like a Philips) I bought a cheap set of drivers at Walmart that included the #2 Robertson bit that fit in my cordless.

Just take off anything that is holding the underbelly on, in my case it was the two rear stabilizer jacks and a strap under the drain pipe. Then Jayco also ran the propane line for the water heater right up through a hole in the underbelly. I used a razor knife to slice a single cut from the LP line to the edge of the underbelly. Then just lay on your back and take out all the screws around the underbelly near where you need to work. In my case Jayco used a smaller piece 5x5 under the tank so i didn't have to drop the whole underbelly down.

For reinstall it helps to use a floor jack and small piece of wood to lift the underbelly up while you install the screws. It's not that the underbelly is particularly heavy, it just helps take the sag out of the center so you can line up the screw holes easier.

Oh and a new valve is $14 which is way cheaper than the gas to pull the trailer 100 miles.

[RedRocket204]

downtheroad wrote:
...But, there may be a risk involved. If it doesn't go well and gets messed up, they may (I say may) have grounds to deny further warranty work.

To clarify on that part, yes, a dealer could deny warranty work for something like a black tank valve you attempted to fix yourself and then you bring it in for warranty work specific to the black tank valve. However, if the water heater went south and everything is OEM and still under warranty, they cannot deny warranty for the WH even if you fixed your own black tank valve.

I would just choose to fix the valve myself also, given the OPs distance from the dealer. Shouldn't be very difficult or costly to replace.

[wildtoad]

Issues on a brand new RV is frustrating but even the $1m units have them. Just went through that and may still have some to find.dont suppose Jayco will tell you what you need to know?

[downtheroad]

I have always done almost all of my own "warranty" work. I just like the kind of work I do and I usually trust myself more that I trust dealers.

But, there may be a risk involved. If it doesn't go well and gets messed up, they may (I say may) have grounds to deny further warranty work.

Just a thought and a heads up.
Good luck with this frustrating issue.
and, to answer your question: dump valves are not all that hard to replace if you are handy.