Bottom damage

[richclover]

We just got home from a bucket list 5200 mile road trip towing the 2018 Coleman bumper pull. 10K/1K Equalizer hitch.

As usual we hit some rough pavement. Some was unexpected and really bad. Enough to make me think broken spring or shackle or blown tire. We were lucky.

We also had multiple encounters with interstate bridges. The crossings that want to launch the whole rig into the air. Recovery on the other side feels like a roller coaster. I found damage to the plastic covering the underside of the trailer. Above the tires. Torn through above the front tires, barely scuffed above the rear.

The trailer was built on LCI frame, etc., and the axles are already under the springs. It's been suggested that I use Gorilla tape for a temporary fix and find a shop to install a 2 inch lift on the axles.

Any thoughts?

[richclover]

opnspaces wrote:
Thanks for the update. Now hopefully you didn't lift the trailer steps up too high. 🙂

OMG! I didn’t think of the steps! 🙂

[opnspaces]

Thanks for the update. Now hopefully you didn't lift the trailer steps up too high. 🙂

[richclover]

WayneAt63044 wrote:
I did the heavier springs exactly like tralertrash above did and it raised the trailer 2". A lot more arch in the springs now. My axle weights at the scale were less than yours for my 7,800 lbs GCWR trailer.

I had a broken spring on the interstate once and replaced the springs with 1,750 OEM springs and they were too flat. I'm convinced most of those springs are manufactured to barely meet spec, if that.

You might replace the springs as a first step to see how it goes. Your axle weights were awfully close to 7,000 max anyway at 6,780.

I then bought some darco plastic material at the hardware store and sealed them in place to cover the scuffed wheel well areas above the tires and then screwed them also outside of where the tire would rub if it should happen again.

Been good for 2 years now. Mine is a Lippert frame, too.

New springs installed yesterday. Made in USA (AAA Spring and Truck Parts). Noticeably more curved and raised the trailer by 2-3” at least. I now have about 5” clearance above the tires.

The trailer was 2” nose low, measured front and rear on the frame, and is now 6” nose low. I’ll be adjusting the WD hitch 😉

[JRscooby]

richclover wrote:

tralertrash wrote:
I had a similar issue with an older Salem F/R. I went from stock (3500#) to 4800# springs and it added about 2" more clearance. Simple afternoon job.

Upgrade springs have been ordered. 5-leaf to replace 4-leaf. 5000# plus load rated. Just the extra leaf will get me a little more clearance.

Local tire shop (Big O Tires), is doing it.

Won’t change the load limits on the axles, 3500#, but might solve the problem.

Might. But the stiffer springs might increase the impact on the axle, cause it to bend...

[richclover]

tralertrash wrote:
I had a similar issue with an older Salem F/R. I went from stock (3500#) to 4800# springs and it added about 2" more clearance. Simple afternoon job.

Upgrade springs have been ordered. 5-leaf to replace 4-leaf. 5000# plus load rated. Just the extra leaf will get me a little more clearance.

Local tire shop (Big O Tires), is doing it.

Won’t change the load limits on the axles, 3500#, but might solve the problem.

[Huntindog]

myredracer wrote:

richclover wrote:

JRscooby wrote:
Am I the only one to ask how far over the axle rating are you running?

From Wayne’s post:

“...You might replace the springs as a first step to see how it goes. Your axle weights were awfully close to 7,000 max anyway at 6,780...”

Mine are 3500# axles, confirmed yesterday. Actual loaded weight, from local Flying J scale, posted earlier in the thread.

And from previously:

myredracer wrote:
What is the TT GVWR and what are the axle ratings? Have you ever taken the TT through a scale to get it's weights?

The problem with running close to max, is that the individual wheel weights can vary a lot.
At one time I had access to some race car setup scales. I was able to get individual wheel weights for the TT I had then. It was a real eye opener.

[myredracer]

richclover wrote:

JRscooby wrote:
Am I the only one to ask how far over the axle rating are you running?

From Wayne’s post:

“...You might replace the springs as a first step to see how it goes. Your axle weights were awfully close to 7,000 max anyway at 6,780...”

Mine are 3500# axles, confirmed yesterday. Actual loaded weight, from local Flying J scale, posted earlier in the thread.

And from previously:

myredracer wrote:
What is the TT GVWR and what are the axle ratings? Have you ever taken the TT through a scale to get it's weights?

[richclover]

JRscooby wrote:
Am I the only one to ask how far over the axle rating are you running?

From Wayne’s post:

“...You might replace the springs as a first step to see how it goes. Your axle weights were awfully close to 7,000 max anyway at 6,780...”

Mine are 3500# axles, confirmed yesterday. Actual loaded weight, from local Flying J scale, posted earlier in the thread.

[JRscooby]

Am I the only one to ask how far over the axle rating are you running?

[ppine]

My first thought is drive slower.
Some roads are terrible. You have to keep slowing until you are not beating up your rig.
No one rides in a TT so the ride can be really harsh.
Consider adding shock absorbers.

[WayneAt63044]

I did the heavier springs exactly like tralertrash above did and it raised the trailer 2". A lot more arch in the springs now. My axle weights at the scale were less than yours for my 7,800 lbs GCWR trailer.

I had a broken spring on the interstate once and replaced the springs with 1,750 OEM springs and they were too flat. I'm convinced most of those springs are manufactured to barely meet spec, if that.

You might replace the springs as a first step to see how it goes. Your axle weights were awfully close to 7,000 max anyway at 6,780.

I then bought some darco plastic material at the hardware store and sealed them in place to cover the scuffed wheel well areas above the tires and then screwed them also outside of where the tire would rub if it should happen again.

Been good for 2 years now. Mine is a Lippert frame, too.

[richclover]

Huntindog wrote:
Per Dexter and Lippert: 3" inch MINIMUM clearance from the top of the tires to the wheelwell.
Also, bump stops are requiered to limit upward axle travel.

There are several ways to get more clearance. You can add a 2" square tube between the frame and the spring hangers... Lots of units are made that way from the factory. You can get longer spring hangers... Some units come from the factory with spring hangers that have several holes to adjust the height.
You can install lift blocks between the axles and springs. I have done this on two TTs.
You can install springs with more leaves.
All of these methods will work. My present TT has a combination of a thicker spring pack, and a small lift block installed, to get the needed height. I only use solid steel lift blocks, and never more than 2" thick. As always, doing it correctly is IMPORTANT... Any of this done wrong ..... Can be an issue.

Thanks for the good info!

Local tire shop does lots of trailer work and is the first stop tomorrow. There is an RV dealer, recommended, in Layton, UT, that does RV repairs and maintenance. They’ll be the next stop. It’ll get fixed before the next boondocks trip 😉

[Huntindog]

Per Dexter and Lippert: 3" inch MINIMUM clearance from the top of the tires to the wheelwell.
Also, bump stops are requiered to limit upward axle travel.

There are several ways to get more clearance. You can add a 2" square tube between the frame and the spring hangers... Lots of units are made that way from the factory. You can get longer spring hangers... Some units come from the factory with spring hangers that have several holes to adjust the height.
You can install lift blocks between the axles and springs. I have done this on two TTs.
You can install springs with more leaves.
All of these methods will work. My present TT has a combination of a thicker spring pack, and a small lift block installed, to get the needed height. I only use solid steel lift blocks, and never more than 2" thick. As always, doing it correctly is IMPORTANT... Any of this done wrong ..... Can be an issue.

[tralertrash]

I had a similar issue with an older Salem F/R. I went from stock (3500#) to 4800# springs and it added about 2" more clearance. Simple afternoon job.