Busted cabover window - UPDATE- Repair complete

[portscanner]

I had a crack in the cabover window from some time and with all the rain it has finally started to leak, so I got to replace the glass.

Has anyone replaced the glass with some thing other than glass? I figure lexan or plexiglass would scratch easy and would look poor in a short period of time - but I was thinking of something that was not transparent - that would be stronger (or at least less brittle) and be a better insulator - like a fiberglass panel with a foam or plywood backing?

[portscanner]

2Gordons wrote:


Good info, Thanks! Did you use a spicific sealant to put the trim ring back in place, or how was that step accomplished?

The rubber trim ring just pops into place. My best description of it is a soft rubber gasket with a lip that locks it in place. No sealant was used when it was installed at the factory so I didnt use any when I put it back in.

I will have to admit that I am thinking about replacing that trim. It is 11 years old and a little bit dried out. Based on they way it works I suspect that it is integral to securing the glass in place. Going to have to dig around for a source for it. I am sure you can just buy it by the foot somewhere, possibly from the same place where I got my Lexan. Going to check into that.

[BobsYourUncle]

Great!
Glad you got it done successfully!

And you saved yourself a lot of money over what the dealership woould have charged you.

And thanks for the comment 🙂

[2Gordons]

portscanner wrote:
Well it is done!!!!!!!!!!!!!

For those who are interested, there was a rubber trim that is wedged in all the way around the window. I just pulled that out. Then using a razor blade I cut the glass loose from the goop holding it in place. A combination of a putty knife, mineral spirits and paper towels removed all the old sealant.

K&S Glass Company in Newnan, GA supplied me with a piece of 0.250 Lexan cut to size - including the radius corners - for $80.31. Add in a tube of 3M 08509 Auto Bedding and Glazing Compound for $12.34 and I had all the parts I needed. I applied a 1/4" to 3/8" bead of the 3M08509 (or maybe a little larger - I am not the best w/ a caulking gun), lined up the window and dropped it into place. I pressed it in to make sure it made a good seal, then put the rubber trim back in.

Thanks to everyone for pointing me in the right direction

I want to add an extra thank you to BobsYourUncle for his additional support and information!!!

Good info, Thanks! Did you use a spicific sealant to put the trim ring back in place, or how was that step accomplished?

[portscanner]

Well it is done!!!!!!!!!!!!!

For those who are interested, there was a rubber trim that is wedged in all the way around the window. I just pulled that out. Then using a razor blade I cut the glass loose from the goop holding it in place. A combination of a putty knife, mineral spirits and paper towels removed all the old sealant.

K&S Glass Company in Newnan, GA supplied me with a piece of 0.250 Lexan cut to size - including the radius corners - for $80.31. Add in a tube of 3M 08509 Auto Bedding and Glazing Compound for $12.34 and I had all the parts I needed. I applied a 1/4" to 3/8" bead of the 3M08509 (or maybe a little larger - I am not the best w/ a caulking gun), lined up the window and dropped it into place. I pressed it in to make sure it made a good seal, then put the rubber trim back in.

Thanks to everyone for pointing me in the right direction

I want to add an extra thank you to BobsYourUncle for his additional support and information!!!

[portscanner]

Well, I lucked out! Thanks to everyone's help, I learned what questions I should be asking and found a supplier that is going to cut me a replacement Lexan window for $95 (0.250 thick) - and they are just down the road from me!

[Bedlam]

I would avoid acrylic only because it can splinter on impact with sharp shards. Lexan may crack, but it is less dangerous.

[jefe_4x4]

Travelnuts,
Thanks for the other-than-glass window education. 1/4" (200mm) it will be.
There is always someone on here that knows something about something. It's nice not to try and re-invent the wheel every time on every project.
regards, as always, jefe

[portscanner]

travelnutz wrote:
For the OP:

A major supplier of Lexan and Acrylic sheets in the East half of the U.S. is/was Cadillac Plastics. ...

They have a location in Smyrna, which, is not exactly next door to me, it is along the direction I have to travel to visit a customer next week, so that will work out fine!

[travelnutz]

For the OP:

A major supplier of Lexan and Acrylic sheets in the East half of the U.S. is/was Cadillac Plastics. They go by some different names today but the original name still links to them using the Cadillac Plastics name on the Internet. Google them as there are several in Georgia to choose from. Phone calls are cheap or free!

I don't know what area of Georgia you live in but one can't be that far from you. Here, they will custom cut to order or sell you the whole sheet. I used them a lot to get the clear plastic of abut any thickness including blocks when I had my business as we'd use the clear plastic cut up and glued together to mockup prototype models for demostrations and presentations of various concepts. They also go by different names in parts of the western U.S. but I see it's still named Cadillac Plastics in Seattle.

BTW, that's where most of the retailers get their sheet plastic supplies anyway and then mark them up for a profit. The local places I've been using now are just very close (a couple miles) and have all I need so I don't have to drive the 32 Miles to our area Cadillac Plastics in Grand Rapids just for a sheet or two.

[BobsYourUncle]

Too bad you weren't closer to me.
I use a lot of acrylic and some Lexan in my solarium business and I have access to several suppliers.

Didn't think it would be that big a deal to get some.

The glass can be removed from the window without pulling the window out. Not that hard to do.

The comment about the flexing is right on. It will move a bit if it is too thin. Make sure you get 1/4" material. That .22 you mentioned is close, as quarter inch is .25

[travelnutz]

I got my most of my 1/4" Lexan at Home Depot here in town in West Michigan. They have both, Acrylic and Lexan in stock but not a large selection in the thick sheets up to 36" X 72" in size. It's also available at a local place called "The Glass Shop" and that's where my last thick Lexan came from for the storms that I made for our 2007 Sunline Solaris TT's storm windows about 16 months ago. I had them order the lexan and the aluminum "C" channel window frame material. Home Depot wouldn't or couldn't get the "C" channel so I went to The Glass Shop.

Check with the special order desk at the Home Depot or Lowes or Menards. Another place is any Ace Hardware. In your area, thick Lexan might not be a normally stocked item.

[portscanner]

I am having fun with this - not.

So far I managed to contact a couple of national glass chains. They are not interested in selling me glass or acrylic. Dont want to touch it. I have some messages in at some smaller local shops (waiting on call back)

I found Home Despot has Lexan - but only 0.093 thick. Same with Lowes. But Home Despot has an acrylic sheet 0.22 thick. 36" x 72" for $116.

bobndot wrote:
I try to take notice of materials used when work is being done , just to learn and compare methods that people use.
When i watched an rv mechanic replace one, he used a gasket and then 3m flow butyl.
As soon as the job was finished, he was able to water test it right away.
http://www.glasswarepro.com/key/3-M-flow-grade-butyl-sealant

thanks for that info! I see I can get that at Amazon for $12.87 a tube with free shipping.

There is an RV repair shop I have done business with before and they have done good work - but due to the distance, it would be quicker for me to remove the window and take to a local shop (or do it myself) rather than drive up there. Gonna give them a call anyway.

Going to keep digging.....

[travelnutz]

Hopefully you can use the so called 1/4" Lexan which actually measures approx .200" or 5mm thickness. It's much stronger and flexes so much less than the so called 1/8" which measures approx .100" thickness. Your TC front window gets the full force of the oncomming buffeting winds when driving. Constant flexing of the thinner Lexan will tend to open joints and seals and seep/wick water in.

I have always made my own storm windows for inside our RV's and some of the windows in our homes since the 1990's and use only the 1/4". The storms on our homes are mounted on the inside and have an annodized aluminum "C" window frame channel around the outside with rubber seals. Looks professional and work great. Ever try to lift a 4' X 8' thick glass plate storm window to put it on the inside of a big picture window? 2 weight lifters and an elephant comes to mind and the darn elephant will likely leave a few piles on the carpet! The Lexan storm on the big Thermopane picture window made night and day difference for cold transfer and also eliminated sweating in winter. Stopped the cold air drafts going down off the huge window. Also had replaced a broken side window with Lexan on our daughter's RV and you can't tell it from glass even 7 years later.

Yes, weight is a factor and even more so in RV's. Yes, it can or will scratch but it's easy and cheap to replace if it gets too bad after a long time.

[bobndot]

I try to take notice of materials used when work is being done , just to learn and compare methods that people use.
When i watched an rv mechanic replace one, he used a gasket and then 3m flow butyl.
As soon as the job was finished, he was able to water test it right away.
http://www.glasswarepro.com/key/3-M-flow-grade-butyl-sealant