Calling Solar Gurus

[wannabegone]

It's time to pull the trigger and install solar on our 1181. I'm planning to order within the next month to be ready for a trip near the end of summer. The TC is pre wired for solar. I've decided to wire in series, use a mppt controler and use the existing pre wiring. Here is my list, what more do I need.

Blue Sky Energy's Solar Boost 3000i solar charge controller

2 RENOGY 100 Watt 100w Polycrystalline Photovoltaic PV Solar Panel.

RENOGY Two Pair of 10ft. Adaptor Kit Solar Cable PV with Mc4 Female and Male Connectors AWG 10 

2 Sets of Renogy Solar Panel Mounting Z Bracket Set of 4 

CES 2 Pin Quick Disconnect Wire Harness SAE Connector Bullet Lead Cable (10 AWG)

1 ATC/ATO Water-resistant Fuse Holder - 10 AWG

Other than decor and time what else needs to be added

[CA_Traveler]

Diodes: To be clear the MPPT 45 prevents back feeding the panels at night so you do not need/want a blocking diode. If the panels don't have bypass diodes then they can be added.

[wannabegone]

Wow it has been almost a month since my last post on this subject. During the research and most of my post I was kicked back at a lake in Arkansas but once back in the real world posting doesn't happen as much as we would like lol. I have ordered and received most of the components I will need to get the system up and working. I ordered the Morningstar TS-MPPT-45 Tristar 45 Amp MPPT Charge Controller and the Morningstar TS-RM-2 Remote Digital Meter from Solarhome.org. initially it was because they had the best price and after a call from them asking if I really wanted 2 battery temp sensors, which I didn't, I will certainly buy from them again. not only were their prices the best the battery temp sensor is included with the controller, not a huge cost but the fact they called me to ask instead of just sending it is a big deal to me. I purchased two 120W poly panels from solarblvd.com, again customer service stood out, when the shipping outfit dropped the panels off with a seriously damaged box my wife questioned it but the driver just shrugged it off and asked if she was refusing the package. by the time she got a hold of me with a picture of the damaged cell the driver had left. When the DW contacted solarblvd to ask how to handle the damage they asked for a picture. once they determined the damage would effect the efficiency of the panel they had one on the way. then, after making sure a new panel was in route they requested we file the damage with the carrier. the rest, wiring, connectors, panel bracket, etc were ordered through Amazon. I still need a few things like the cable to the battery, diodes and I'm sure several other things. I will update as soon as I have time to install. I am curious where others with the Lance pre wire mounted their charger controller.

[jimh406]

CA Traveler wrote:
Tilting is about maximum solar output not eliminating shade.

Obviously, but tilting 4 directions is something else entirely.

[CA_Traveler]

Tilting is about maximum solar output not eliminating shade. I flat mounted 3 panels with the notion that it would be equivalent to 2+ tilted panels.

[jimh406]

CA Traveler wrote:
One of the members in the above link set his panels up so that they can be tilted 4 ways...

That's cool, but it seems it would also need to be movable to get out of the shade. 😉 Sounds like portables would be needed.

[CA_Traveler]

wannabegone wrote:
I saw a set up somewhere online either yesterday or the day before that used door hinges, it on my list of possibilities but I'm not sure if it'll work for all functions I am looking at. Besides tilting both ways and easily accessing the roof under the panels for maintenance and cleaning, I also want to be able to install some extensions if I need to get the panels out of any shadows. I'm going to mount the panels on either side of the cab over sky light. Depending on where, when and what direction we are facing you never know where the shadows are gonna fall.

One of the members in the above link set his panels up so that they can be tilted 4 ways...

[CA_Traveler]

JFNM wrote:
Edit: Apologies - I have very large 60 volt panels... smaller panels may not require anything nearly as heavy as a door hinge.

Those panels will be large sails in the wind and IMHO the issue is not how to hinge but how to secure them to the roof.

I would be thinking of long commercial solar roof struts or long 2x2" aluminum channel as the base securely anchored to the roof.

[wannabegone]

I saw a set up somewhere online either yesterday or the day before that used door hinges, it on my list of possibilities but I'm not sure if it'll work for all functions I am looking at. Besides tilting both ways and easily accessing the roof under the panels for maintenance and cleaning, I also want to be able to install some extensions if I need to get the panels out of any shadows. I'm going to mount the panels on either side of the cab over sky light. Depending on where, when and what direction we are facing you never know where the shadows are gonna fall.

[CA_Traveler]

This thread Members Solar has a lot of solar install information. I don't recall anyone with the larger 60V panels but still a lot of good ideas.

[pianotuna]

Add a 3rd panel instead, unless you plan to automate the tilting.

wannabegone wrote:
I'm going to shop the local home improvement store to see what I can make work for panel mounts. I'm going with something I can tilt the panels and have the ability to raise the panels out of any shaded areas when stopped for extended stays.

[JFNM]

This is nothing more than brainstorming...

I do not have tilting panels so I do not actually know what will work well. For a cheap, DIY idea, I thought perhaps a door hinge with one side bolted to the panel frame and the other side bolted to the angle bracket on the roof might work. Two of these on each long side (of the panel) might allow a guy to remove the door hinge pins on one side to tilt one way or vice-versa. Maybe something with a locking pin/bolt on the short sides of the panel and some way to lock the door hinge pins to really secure when traveling.

Again... thinking about loud.

Edit: Apologies - I have very large 60 volt panels... smaller panels may not require anything nearly as heavy as a door hinge.

[wannabegone]

So it looks like my shopping list has changed up a bit thanks to the comments and advice given here.

2 Solar Cynergy 120 Watt 12 Volt Solar Panel

Morningstar TriStar TS-MPPT-45 Charge Controller

Morningstar TriStar TS-RM-2 Digital Remote Meter 2

Morningstar Remote Temperature Sensor RTS

plus wiring, connectors, fuses, etc.

I'm going to shop the local home improvement store to see what I can make work for panel mounts. I'm going with something I can tilt the panels and have the ability to raise the panels out of any shaded areas when stopped for extended stays.

The only other change is going to be location location location. I have an automatic switching box for the generator, there is lots of room for it and the controller in the area where the batteries are but I forgot about that little explosive hazard created by battery fumes so I'll be looking for another area to mount both.

[Bob__B]

There shouldn't be any difference in mono vs poly regarding the need for bypass diodes in partial shading situations.

[jimh406]

wannabegone wrote:
so if a panel is shaded that panel will only not contribute instead of bringing the whole system down.

From what I understand, I don't think the other circuit is required for polycrystalline panels, but I'm sure one of the more seasoned people here will respond.

[CA_Traveler]

Yes as shown in the above link. You may be able to install the diode in the junction box, but be aware of any warranty problems.

Planning ahead check for diodes in the panel. This may/may not be shown in the panel specs.