Camper travel trailer noob questions

[Texanfordfan]

About to pull the trigger on a 2016 Dutchman Aerolite 292 DBHS.
http://www.dutchmen.com/aerolite/floorplans-and-pictures/floorplan-details?modelId=22695

I'm hoping I got a good deal at 31950 out the door. This one has the 50 amp service and all options and packages. MSRP is 41,759 at camping world of Houston and I close the deal Wednesday afternoon. The salesman said my truck can handle this beast, but now I'm having doubts. Camper dry weight is 6500 and hitch at 895. My TV is a 2013 F150 CC SWB FX4 with 5.0 with 7350 tow capacity. I'd like to know your thoughts on this configuration and what WDH I should get, or even if I should reconsider this exact camper. My wife and I have looked at many campers over the years and really like this one and are excited to get this particular TT with all the options and a whatnot. What things can I add to make going down the road easier and safer? Thanks

[IDoMyOwnStunts]

I have the same year and make of truck as you, except mine is the Ecoboost. If you don't have the max tow package on your truck, you are likely going to exceed your receiver weight of 1050 lbs once you have 2 full propane bottles, batteries, and the added weight of of the weight distribution hitch. If you have P rated tires, you will feel like you're towing on marshmallows even at the max of 44 psi on the sidewalls. Trust me on that. I've done a lot to make my towing experience better. I don't lack for power. But if I had to do it all again, I would've rather saved the money and bought something lighter. Good luck!

[Texanfordfan]

Reading all these responses definitely have me concerned. I called my salesman and voiced my concerns and he is looking further into the exact weight of TT. He said his company and himself wouldn't sell me something that wasn't safe for me and my family. I appreciate all the comments and advise and will let everyone know how this turns out. And as far as the price goes, I think this one is higher than the others because of all the options. This camper has every single option possible on it, even has two air conditioners.

[JWRoberts]

I agree with the posters above. Just remember that if you should have an accident, you don't want to sit across a table from someone else's attorney explaining why you were overloaded.

[rbpru]

It is difficult for one person to know what another person considers scary, safe, difficult, dangerous and a host of other adjectives used to describe a TT/TV combo. These are all subjective based on people's opinions.

What is not subjective are the hard numbers. If your TV axle weight is 200 lbs over the manufacturer's rating while towing, you are subjecting it to excessive wear.

Now if you tow 200 miles to the Lake and back twice a year, you probably will never notice. If you tow cross country from dessert to mountains, it might take its toll.

One person's white knuckle drive, might be another person's typical ride. Once you know the numbers it is up to the individual to decide their level of comfort.

[Walaby]

I usually don't respond to posts like these, after they've gone to a page or two, because I end up repeating what everyone already said. I figure after you've heard it half a dozen times or more, you get the point. But, having said that, I will say that the trailer in my sig is approx 6800 fully loaded, and I would not want to go any heavier with my Sierra 1500. And, in fact, Im contemplating upgrading the truck prob within the next year, because I want to travel more want a greater margin and comfort level. Im fine towing with my setup, and I don't get blown around, and I don't have the tail wagging the dog, but I wouldn't go heavier.

The trailer you are looking at is 6500 dry, so figure at least 1000 more when you're all done. I thought that was BS, but I ended up there and then some. Im still below the trailer GVWR, below my RAWR and below my truck GVWR, and total GCWR, but I do wish I had more margin.

As far as the deal, camp-n-family found two at significantly lower cost, so I would go back to the table with the dealer.

WD Hitch, I really like my Husky Centerline TS. I don't have much to compare to, and I know Equalizer has a great following, so I don't think you could go wrong there. The dealer when I bought my rig threw in the Husky hitch, so I went with that. I like it because I've heard on other WD hitches, you have to disconnect the bars when backing up (don't know if that's true), but with the Husky Centerline, you don't.

Just another thought from first hand experience.

Mike

[Deleted_per_op]

dtzackus wrote:
...A RV dealership will tell you anything to get you to sign the dotted line and buy their units.

Not all of them. I walked out of one dealership when the salesman told me weights don't matter. At the next dealer, the salesman asked me first what I was towing with. I'd seen the trailer I wanted and was curious about the next bigger model. Salesman said "well, I'll show it to you, but I won't sell it to you because you can't tow it with that truck".

Guess which dealer I bought from?

[hohenwald48]

Your trailer salesperson is probably not an expert on trailers and for sure isn't an expert on tow vehicles. Good for you for checking up on him.

As others have said you will likely be over on some of your load capacities. I think folks are surprised by the weight of all the junk they take on a trip.

My opinion (for what it's worth) is that you will be looking for a new truck in the near future if you go ahead with your trailer purchase.

Real world numbers.

Brochure UVW of my TT is 6035 and TW is 650.
My TV with me, dog, wife and full fuel is 6,000 pounds (CAT weight).
My gross with my trailer connected with TV loaded and ready to roll is 13,780 pounds (CAT weight) and TW is 900 or so.

[krobbe]

You'll be over on most if not all of your truck's capacities when the trailer is loaded with food, gear, water, propane, paper plates, etc..
To squeak under a TV's payload/cargo capacity, many people will say they won't add water(8.3#/gal) until they arrive at the campground. But having water on hand for the many lunch stops or bathroom breaks is kinda nice. On the bigger trips, I don't want to empty my fresh water tank before pulling out to go to the next destination. And, not every campground will have a dump station. So carrying a filled black and grey tank until you reach a campground with one happens fairly often when staying at some great rustic campgrounds in between full service ones.
I consider the towing comfort aspect of the truck to be important on a cross country trip, especially when driving 6 to 10hrs a day.
Having said all that, the safety aspect is most important. The truck should have extra capacities to handle those situations that crop up all too frequently. Enough power to handle merging and passing safely. More than enough braking to stop the rig without trailer brakes especially down 10% grades.(Some will argue this point but my experience brings this up) Enough weight to not get blown around by wind or big trucks.
The trailer you are considering is great for a family. But a 3/4 ton truck would be a good fit for it.

[Campfire_Time]

Agree with the above posts. I have knowingly towed 2 different combos at close to capacity. For short trips on relatively flat terrain it's OK. But there is a marked difference from towing close to capacities and leaving a healthy margin. Far better tow experience with the later.

[2112]

This TT has 900lb Dry hitch weight. Once loaded your truck will come up way short on payload.

You will have a hand full towing this 34' TT with your SWB TV. It can be very nerve racking. I've been there.

Can your truck (empty) tow this camper (empty)? YES
Will you enjoy towing this camper (loaded) using your truck (loaded)? NO

You either need more truck or less camper. Been there, done that

[DinTulsa]

As stated above, you might be ok but you will be very very close on your weights. I don't know where you will be towing the unit, but it will work not only you but it will work your engine/tranny combo as well. A good wd/sway hitch is in order for sure.

[camp-n-family]

I see a few problems. First, the dry weight at 6500lbs. If that is the weight in the brochure, forget it. It doesn't include options, battery, propane etc. You can easily add 4-500lbs to the dry weight just with those. That puts you pretty close to your max tow rating and you haven't even put anything in the trailer yet. If it's the stickered UVW as delivered of the actual trailer, you may get away with it.

The other is the tow rating. Previous to last year, manufacturers still used the old method of determining tow ratings. It was based on an empty truck and allowed 150lbs for a driver. Any weight added to the vehicle reduced the tow rating pound for pound so once you've loaded the family and stuff into the truck that trailer will likely exceed the "actual" tow rating.

You will probably exceed the trucks payload as well. As mentioned previously, check the door jamb for your actual payload limit. That trailer, once loaded, will have a tongue weight in excess of 1k which will eat up the majority of most 1/2 ton truck payload ratings, leaving little room for passengers etc.

For comparison, I towed the tt in my sig for 2 years with a CC Tundra. Plenty of power to pull, not enough payload to carry. We were always several hundreds pounds over payload. Trailer weighs 6400lbs UVW as delivered, 7600lbs loaded with 950lbs on the tongue. Truck was rated to tow 10k.

If it's just 2 of you and you pack lightly you'd be maxed but could get away with it, but since it's a bunk house and CC truck, I'm going to assume that won't be the case. I'd suggest a lighter tt or heavier truck.

Price seems a little steep too based on this and this. I think you can do better.

[rbpru]

Overloading your F-150 increases the wear and tear. Tires, brakes, suspension are put under heavier load. Anyone who farms or works construction sees this everyday.

The problem is the max cargo. The data you gave indicates 13% tongue weight. If you add 1200 lbs to the dry weight for the loaded TT (typical) you will have a tongue weight near 1000 lbs.

The dealer knows that your F-150 can handle 1000 lbs of tongue weight, what the dealer does not know or worry about is how much stuff you carry. Spouse, kids, dogs, tools, gas and anything else you put in the TV bed.

I think if you do the math you will find you will be close to 800 or 900 lbs over the max cargo limit.

However, do not take my or anyone else's word or guess, load up the truck with everything you are going to have in the cab and bed when you camp and head to the CAT scales. You will get the weight on each axle and know for sure how much cargo capacity you have remaining for the tongue weight.

Yes, this sounds like a lot of hassle, but buying an RV is not a race. It is placing a lot of money on the line, so it is best to understand the details.

[dtzackus]

HD are as they state, heavier duty suspension, brakes, gears, and typically bigger engines and transmissions.

It's up to you, it's your family going on a vacation, I want to make sure me and my family get there in one piece. A RV dealership will tell you anything to get you to sign the dotted line and buy their units.

[wing_zealot]

What is the payload rating for your truck? Look for the sticker on the door jamb. It will give you a "not to exceed" number. What is that number? That is your maximum payload.

There is nothing wrong with being at max. But your total payload (tongue weight, passengers, and cargo) should not exceed your max payload number.

P.S. The 282DBHS is very similar and 200 lbs. Lighter.