Can we pull a TT with our ‘20 Suburban

[Hujouguhnk]

We recently bought a 2020 Z71 Chevy Suburban. We know that the towing capacity for our car is 8000lbs, but we don’t want to meet that capacity because we don’t want something like... the transmission going out... to happen to us (especially being we just bought our car in November).

The thing is, we have been salesman-ed to death now. We’ve been to two dealerships and one guy showed us a TT that was 7200 lbs towing weight. Another showed us one a TT that he knew we’d love (floorplan and decor wise) and said he “thought” it came in a smaller size—it didn’t, and then he tried to convince us to upgrade the towing capacity however we could.

So realistically speaking, what are we looking at? Can we pull anything? We are a growing family of 5 plus a 95lbs German Shepherd puppy. We’d ideally like a bunkhouse for the kids but can live without it definitely. We’d like opinions and tips from people who have been in our situation or who can add light to something we are out of our realm on.

[Blazing_Zippers]

First off; you have a modern tow vehicle. IF set up properly, it will do pretty well with a reasonable amount of trailer.
Second; how many days a year are you going to use the trailer? Paying a bazillion dollars on a unit to sit in storage for weeks/months at a time will grate on your mind.
Third; what type of trips or travel currently matter to you? Are you camping in Forest Service campgrounds or RV parks? Being in the Eastern part of the U.S. you won't find boondocking like in the West.
Fourth and probably most importantly: DO NOT believe everything a salesperson tells you. Their goal is to send you out with a unit, period! This time of year is good to shop and dream, but dealers won't cut much slack on the prices, so shop, look, think, and when you do make the plunge, enjoy!

[Huntindog]

Slowmover wrote:
“Simplicity” is in understanding how a WD hitch works.

Thus far not on display in this thread.

“Payload” isn’t applicable.
“Tow rating” the same

Both are advertising. Not fact.
Neither are legal or insurance problems.

Go back to my earlier post. Get real numbers.
Establish facts. Not RVer fantasy.

Weight isn’t a problem in trailer towing. That was solved in 1967. Getting the hitch rigging correct is something not a other single contributor to this thread understands.

It’s not rocket science. It’s leverage. And it’s predictable based on formula.

How much the travel trailer weighs won’t be a problem. But having a stable tow rig, is. That can be tested. Same for a decrease in braking distance versus being unhitched (tow vehicle otherwise the same).

No test? No advice worth the electrons.

.

.

What happened in 1967?

[Slowmover]

“Simplicity” is in understanding how a WD hitch works.

Thus far not on display in this thread.

“Payload” isn’t applicable.
“Tow rating” the same

Both are advertising. Not fact.
Neither are legal or insurance problems.

Go back to my earlier post. Get real numbers.
Establish facts. Not RVer fantasy.

Weight isn’t a problem in trailer towing. That was solved in 1967. Getting the hitch rigging correct is something not a other single contributor to this thread understands.

It’s not rocket science. It’s leverage. And it’s predictable based on formula.

How much the travel trailer weighs won’t be a problem. But having a stable tow rig, is. That can be tested. Same for a decrease in braking distance versus being unhitched (tow vehicle otherwise the same).

No test? No advice worth the electrons.

.

.

[Mickeyfan0805]

kellem wrote:
Keep it simple......make sure your vehicle can comfortably tow the GVWR of trailer.

It's that easy and by " comfortably " you won't have to pay mind to payload.....unless your a hoarder.

I would suggest that it is trying to oversimplify things in this manner that can really get someone into trouble. You can readily purchase and F150 SuperCrew with a 12,000 pound towing capacity and less than 1,500 pounds of payload. Even keeping the trailer at only 75% of that capacity, you could end up with a 9,000 pound trailer with a 75 pound hitch and over 1,100 pounds in tongue weight. Add just two adults and nothing else and your are already over your payload. Start putting gear in your truck and/or other passengers and you can blow away your payload while still being way below your GCWR.

I'm not one who I would consider a member of the 'weight police,' and have no problem with people deciding to use their truck to the max of its stated capacities. To do so, however, you need to know all of the weights and limits involved! Oversimplifying the calculations is just asking for trouble.

[kellem]

Keep it simple......make sure your vehicle can comfortably tow the GVWR of trailer.

It's that easy and by " comfortably " you won't have to pay mind to payload.....unless your a hoarder.

[Michigander]

It will tug just fine all day long. The Suburban/Yukon XL platform comes with the tow package standard. (hitch and trans cooler) The heavy duty trailer package only adds air level for the rear, a built in brake controller and a 3:42 rear. We just bought a 2019 Yukon XL (our third since 2000) It has a 3:08 rear and have no problems with it tugging. The biggest thing is having a good weight distributing hitch and a good brake controller. Get the rig set up good and level and have fun!!

[Intelligence209]

I was an owner to a 2018 premier chevy suburban. Tow package, rear air suspension and all. I towed a 34ft TT, 6,800lbs loaded I'm sure tongue weight was around 800lbs loaded.(apex ultra light 300bhs) I have 4 kids plus my wife.

I ended up getting rid of it. Having the primere is more capable then the Z71 I believe because of the auto leveling and such. The suburban pulled the trailer pretty good but when it comes to steeper grades the transmission would get hot. There are certain situations where it'll really get hot especially when reversing up a steep driveway. (When it tow haul mode, the battery guage would turn into the transmission temp)

Knowing what I know, I would not go over 26ft total, and no more then 6k fully loaded that's pushing it. As for the Z71, you may have a 3.23 gear ratio instead of 3.42 with no auto leveling.

When I towed, I made sure I put everything into the trailer over the axles, to keep my payload limits in order, which the suburban has a pretty good limit for being a 1/2 platform


We also recently traded our 300bhs that had bunk beds for a 293rlds. We figured that you lose a lot of trailer for beds. Small bathroom size and little living room size. So we simply have a large living room area for more family time and we just make the beds from the couches and dinette.

[crasster]

opnspaces wrote:

Kevinwa wrote:
This may sound odd, but sit on the toilet when rv shopping and Imagine doing your business, wiping etc.

Absolutely critical on this point and make sure you close the door and just try to pretend to wipe. I did this test 15 years ago and my trailer passed. Now 15 years later and the bathroom seems to have gotten smaller.

Yeah that happened to me.... AND my shower got smaller too. 🙂

[OleManOleCan]

Lwiddis wrote:
In addition to what your new Sub can carry and pull, where do you want to camp? Most private RV parks can handle a big trailer but if you want state parks, USFS and BLM campgrounds many have length limits.

I have a Lawyer buddy who upgraded his camper to a big 45' Fifth Wheel.
Now he no longer can camp most state parks, and many private parks have a very limited number or long sites.

I went the other way, I went from 30' to 20'.
I CAN CAMP ANYWHERE...

[Jayco25E]

We are looking at this unit. Light weight and a bunkhouse in the back for kids.

Might fit the bill for you as well.

https://coachmenrv.com/travel-trailers/apex-ultra-lite/300BHS/294

[Slowmover]

Cargo capacity and tow capacity are advertising numbers. No applicability.

1). Get Cat Scale phone app. Empty vehicle of all but that whichbis permannt during your ownership.

2). At truck stop, fill tank. Driver only, cross scale. Park, go inside to get Scale ticket.

3). Take pics of Scale tkt and DOOR sticker showing axle capacity.

4). The difference between the TARE axle weights and the limits tells how much “capacity” is afforded.

5). The use of a WD hitch is to “equalize” the TW across the three axle [sets].

6). At or a little above 70% of the TW will be on the TV after WD properly set. The balance to the TT axles.

7). On the TV, the TW will have — ideally 10% — a slight bias to the Drive Axle (or is even FF/RR).

A 1,000-lb is the province of cars and medium SUVs. It’s no challenge.

Trailer loaded for camping ( with max propane + fresh water), and TV loaded for camping plus all passengers, one uses the scale to have the Steer Axle weight the sane whether hitched or unhitched.

Trailer weight isn’t ever the problem. Today’s vehicles are grossly overpowered compared to forty or fifty years ago. BOF or unit body makes no difference.

90% plus can’t get the hitch rigging correct. And believe ad copy.

Steering control is what matters. Brakes are second. Throttle is next to meaningless.

Done right your rig will stop faster than when unhitched (same TV load). Steering comes down to how good or bad the TV design (4WD solid axle pickup worst).

Upgrading trailer to Dexter TorFlex or MOR/Ryde IS should be a mandatory first step. With antilock disc trailer brakes [TUSON Corp].

The leading cause of accidents is winds. Driver overreacting. High COG TV just makes it MORE likely, not less. The long-wheelbase pickup leads the group for rollovers.

Trailer SHAPE is what matters. None of these TTs are any burden as to weight. It’s their stability (suspension & aero) that is important. 5k or 10k. Not much difference with a good design.

But a square box on leaf springs is just a problem waiting to happen (slide outs make it worse). . A heavier TV won’t help. Length, not weight, is what traps winds (sail area = push).

[Grit_dog]

SidecarFlip wrote:
Rent a motel. Cheaper in the long run and no dirty sheets to change either.

???

[Mickeyfan0805]

It's great that you have come to get advice BEFORE making a decision. Please allow the advice here to sink in and don't let the allure of a new trailer put you in an unsafe situation.

We are a family of 5 that used to travel with our 100 pound dog. Here's how it worked for us...

Family weight - 700 pounds
Dog - 100 pounds
Extra 'stuff' (tools, snacks and drinks, kids' backpacks) - 50 pounds
WD Hitch - 75 pounds
Hitch weight - 1,000 pounds (8k loaded trailer)

Total weight on truck: 1,925 pounds

This is why we drove a 2006 HD Suburban with 2,040 pounds of payload for the last 8 years. Now that the kids are a bit older, we've just now switched to a crew-cab F150 and will just stay under our 1,880 pounds of payload because the dog will only travel with us on local trips where we have 2 cars.

People can argue over whether or not you need to be entirely under your payload, or whether or not there is a bit of leniency there. That said, it is highly possible that your Suburban's payload may be at or under 1,500 pounds. If your numbers are anything like ours, you could have less than 600 pounds left for tongue weight once you are loaded up to camp. If true, you would be looking at a loaded trailer weight of 5,000 to 5,500 to even stay close to your ratings.

Really understand these numbers before you jump in too deep. Depending on what you are looking for, a hybrid trailer might provide you some solid options to gain a bit more space while staying at a more reasonable weight.

[SidecarFlip]

Rent a motel. Cheaper in the long run and no dirty sheets to change either.