cancel
Showing results for 
Search instead for 
Did you mean: 

Clicking with Shore Power

Bear9350
Explorer
Explorer
Hello,

I just purchased a used 97 Jayco trailer. Started cleaning stuff up and getting things figured out at home last weekend. Saturday afternoon I wired up a 30amp 110 volt recepticale to plug it into shore power. I also plumbed the propane back up. I did a quick check Sat afternoon to see if the furnace and AC worked and checked most of the lights. Everything seemed good. At this point I new the battery was dead. I had previously tried to charge the battery that was on it but it would not take a charge.

Sunday when I walked into it I heard a clicking sound coming for what I assume it the converter. When I unplugged the shore power the clicking noise would slowly die out.

I did a little research online and read that the dead battery may be the problem. I purchased a new battery, fully charged it and installed it last night. Plugged it back into shore power and the clicking continued.

I am new to all this and am looking for any advice on where I should look next.

Thanks,
Brian
47 REPLIES 47

CavemanCharlie
Explorer III
Explorer III
Make sure the flame from the pilot is blowing directly on the thermal couple. It is really low pressure and a spider web is all it takes to make it not point the right way. It must be a good flame blowing right on the thermal. If it's a weak flame or, if it's blowing just a little off to the side that is all it will take to screw it up.

Blow it clean with a drinking straw using your lips.

enblethen
Nomad
Nomad
No, pick up a new thermal couple. $15-$20 at most hardware stores

Bud
USAF Retired
Pace Arrow


2003 Chev Ice Road Tracker

Bear9350
Explorer
Explorer
Got the new convertor installed last week and everything seems to be working fine with the electrical now. Over the weekend I turned the hot water heater on and it seemed to be working fine for a couple of days. We used it to do dishes and take a shower a couple of days leaving the pilot on. Then it stopped working. I have a good pilot light when I turn it all the way to pilot and hold it. As soon as I release it off pilot there is no gas and I can't get the main burner to light. I tried replacing the thermo couple with no change.
Anything else I might be able to check? It seems like as soon as I release it from pilot all gas flow is stopped. I have waited long enough to make cetian the thermo couple is getting hot enough.

westend
Explorer
Explorer
Good to hear, happy camping!
'03 F-250 4x4 CC
'71 Starcraft Wanderstar -- The Cowboy/Hilton

Bear9350
Explorer
Explorer
So far I have replaced the DC circuit breaker. 12 volt power is back and working fine for the lights and running the furnace. Waiting for a new converter to get here. I think that should solve the last of my electrical problems.

Also had some issues getting the water heater up and running right over the weekend. Did a little cleaning and polishing on some of the lines and it seems to be operating fine now.

westend
Explorer
Explorer
Was there any resolution to the problems?
'03 F-250 4x4 CC
'71 Starcraft Wanderstar -- The Cowboy/Hilton

teejaywhy
Explorer
Explorer
110, 115, 120 all just semantics for what the US power grid provides. Not like anyone has a choice what to plug into.
The Yost Outpost
Gilbert, AZ
2007 GMC Sierra Classic 2500HD, Duramax LBZ
2019 Nash 23D

westend
Explorer
Explorer
Bear9350 wrote:
So I found the DC circuit breaker like pictured. It only had one wire connected to it, was rusted over and doesn't look like it has been used for several years.
There were also two in-line 30 amp buss fuses on two separate lines going to my battery. One of these fuses were blown the other was good. I swapped them and found the lights to work and the slide out not working.

My question is should I just replace the 30 amp buss fuse or get a new DC circuit breaker like pictured?
Sounds like a previous owner abandoned the breaker, choosing to install two fuses instead. Your call on replacement particulars.

Here's what I'd do: Leave the slide connected to one fuse and adaptor, wired directly to battery. Replace the blown fuse and adaptor with a 40-60 amp circuit breaker as was mentioned above. You should also have one other wire connected directly to battery and that is the supply power for the emergency brake switch.

Tip: as long as you're mucking around with battery wires, it might be a good time to install a disconnect switch Most trailers have parasitic loads that will drain a battery in a few days. A disconnect switch allows an owner to flip the switch when the trailer is in storage so the battery doesn't drain completely. If you're bringing the battery inside, you could locate the switch inside, a better location.

Once you have the 12 V power straightened out and the lights working, we can move on to diagnose any converter issues you may have. With the trailer connected to shore power, the 120V circuit breaker that powers the converter passing power to the converter, you should be able to measure 13.5+ DCV at the battery terminals or the converter's output terminals.
'03 F-250 4x4 CC
'71 Starcraft Wanderstar -- The Cowboy/Hilton

mich800
Explorer
Explorer
Are we seriously still debating the 110/120 situation?

Mr. Mom

enblethen
Nomad
Nomad
I would recommend a circuit breaker. Make sure it is somewhat protected from road debris and moisture.

Bud
USAF Retired
Pace Arrow


2003 Chev Ice Road Tracker

Bear9350
Explorer
Explorer
So I found the DC circuit breaker like pictured. It only had one wire connected to it, was rusted over and doesn't look like it has been used for several years.
There were also two in-line 30 amp buss fuses on two separate lines going to my battery. One of these fuses were blown the other was good. I swapped them and found the lights to work and the slide out not working.

My question is should I just replace the 30 amp buss fuse or get a new DC circuit breaker like pictured?

Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Explorer III
OP has a failed converter (no DC output) AND has a tripped/failed DC circuit breaker (like the one pictured). They are usually mounted on forward frame of a TT
Is it time for your medication or mine?


2007 DODGE 3500 QC SRW 5.9L CTD In-Bed 'quiet gen'
2007 HitchHiker II 32.5 UKTG 2000W Xantex Inverter
US NAVY------USS Decatur DDG31

westend
Explorer
Explorer
The OP states that after he went through a session of "clicking" and loss of power (probably due to a known bad battery), he replaced the battery with a new battery. He further states that he had power, initially, but lost 12V power in a short time. He now has no lights but the slide works.

My best guess is that the slide is connected to the battery before the inline breaker and that the inline 12V breaker has failed.

I don't think the OP is concerned about utility power quality or grid attributes, at the moment. He needs to get some of the 12V system operational.
'03 F-250 4x4 CC
'71 Starcraft Wanderstar -- The Cowboy/Hilton

enblethen
Nomad
Nomad
I am thinking that the OP has two issues. One the converter has failed and the clicking is a capacitor. Second issue is in the battery circuit. Could be circuit breaker or fuse.
OP should put charger on battery and start working that 12 volts to the DC distribution panel.

Bud
USAF Retired
Pace Arrow


2003 Chev Ice Road Tracker