Cool Mods - Thread restored 10/18/2012

[2Rad4U]

My daughter was getting a little warm in her bunk during our last camping trip, so I decided to put her a fan in to keep the air flowing.

I had been wanting to add a 12-volt fan to the main living area anyway, so I decided to tackle both jobs today. A trip to Wal-Mart for two fans($8.48 each) and we're halfway there.

She picked the spot, and I got to work -



I picked up the power from her overhead light. All I have left is to install a short piece of wire cover and I'm done -



I added one in the main area -



I dropped by Lowe's and found this cool soap dispenser. I also just installed these Pop-a-Toothbrush holders -



I added a sopa dispenser to the kitchen area as well. I also installed a Pop-a-Napkin under the radio -



Here's an easy mod. I found this over the door towel rack at Walmart and it works great -

[welsteach]

I just added an Adjust-a-Shower rod by Stromberg-Carlson. I can now move my shower rod into the tub with a push of a finger (creating more room in the tiny bathroom) or outside the shower (creating more shower space in the shower itself). It was a pain to install (would be much better with electric drill), but WELL worth it. My shower last night felt almost luxurious. It is similar to the bent shower rods in hotel rooms, except that it can move in and out. It is heavy duty metal, not plastic, which I thought it might be. I would recommend it.

[ilovecamping]

Well I have finally completed reading the 102 pages of wonderful ideas from all of you. We are making a list of the ones we want to do first, as soon as our new camper gets here. Thank you to everyone who posted their mods and we will add ours once we complete them.

[Deewayne]

Gas grill mod or how to drill porcelain covered metal.

------------------------------------

I recently purchased a Thermos Grill 2 Go.

The only thing it don't have was a built in thermometer. So I went to Lowes and purchased one from their outdoor dept.

Now the problem was, how am I going to drill the porcelain top without
cracking it. I didn't want to go to the trouble of finding a diamond tipped drill bit.

The other night while laying in bed a thought came to mind (thoughts aren't usually what come to me in bed.)

This is what I did and it worked great.

I used duct tape to closely mask off the spot I wanted to drill. Then I took a Dremel tool and put in a metal cutting blade. I then lightly cut through the porcelain to bare metal. I didn't center punch it as I didn't want to stress the surrounding area. Then I drilled it normally, removed the tape, and cleaned the area, and it turned out fine with no cracks.

If you need to drill porcelain I hope this helps.

[batman99]

miatared wrote:

batman99 wrote:
....In the future, it will purchase / install a $7.00 thermal switch for it. re: Turns ON when temps above 80F and turns its self OFF when temps drop below 75F. Even if using a 80/75F thermal switch, I'd still install an inline 12V fuse (3A) and a manual off/on switch.

This is a great idea - would you have a model or part number ? - I'd like to do that as well. Instead of having it run all the time. Denis

Hi Denis.

"thermal Switch" product looks something like:
http://www.globalspec.com/NpaPics/89/99670_083120057068_ExhibitPic.JPG

For details of 3/4" "auto reset" product, surf Page 16 within:
http://www.alliedelec.com/Images/Products/Datasheets/BM/SELCO_PRODUCTS_COMPANY/557-0109.PDF

re: 3/4” Disc Thermostats / surface mount with Automatic Reset. It would be configured for "Close on Rise" - normally open with approx 75F - 85F temp range. re: turns on (closes) at 85 degree and turns off (opens circuit) when temps drop below 75F. I'd secure this item within the rear fridge area. Probably on its wood frame area.

If wondering, I'd still use a manual OFF/ON switch. Thus, allowing me to turn the optional fan off at night - when little kids are trying to sleep.

Before ordering, I'd double / triple check my desired specs. And, inquire if better thermal switches are avaialble. So far, this one looks great to me.

If wondering, cost of 1 x termal switch is approx $5.95 (or less) + taxes. Do shop around because some places love to charge $15+ (for the exact same product).

Good luck...


.

[miatared]

batman99 wrote:
....In the future, it will purchase / install a $7.00 thermal switch for it. re: Turns ON when temps above 80F and turns its self OFF when temps drop below 75F. Even if using a 80/75F thermal switch, I'd still install an inline 12V fuse (3A) and a manual off/on switch.

This is a great idea - would you have a model or part number ? - I'd like to do that as well. Instead of having it run all the time.

Denis

[batman99]

Pitapony wrote:
What is the general price range of this stuff? I know it would vary by length of RV but what were some of the prices you were quoted for your length of RV? And what is the length of your RV?

The price of Contractor applied Spray Faom insulation in each region is different. There's even a huge variance within the same region. Thus, always get an "estimate" for 5+ different contractors. As a suggestion, take the length and width of your TT's chassis box (for example, 8ft by 24 ft - which is the chassis size of the wife's TT) and price normal fiber glass insuation for it. For example, 8 x 24 = approx 200 sq FT. No foam required under its slide(s) and NO foam under its holding tanks. If you foam under your 3 x tanks (then use chassis box 10 x 24 instead. If you plan to apply Spray Foam yourself (via Do It Yourself Spray Foam kits), add 25% for wastage. Especially if first time DIY and doing it "up side down". Take 200 sq ft (as in my wife's TT) and price normal fiber glass insulation at 4" thick for it. re: Same stuff that's used between normal 2x4 vertical wall studs. Now, take that financial estimate (for fibre glass insulation) and multiply by 4.5. Spray Foam is often 4 - 5 times `more` expensive then Fiber Glass insulation. It's output number is the RAW financial Estimate of Spray Foam (for same sq ft area). Remember to add cost for any over spray plastic for protecting over spray areas and for laying on. For example: - Click Here 1 - and - Click Here 2 - Also add cost for lots of duct tape and for a few garbage bags (for tank valve wrapping and for taking garbage away). The more work you can do (re: masking, wrapping, clean up), the less the profressional spray foam guy will charge you. Like painting a vehicle, one preps the vehile so the professional Master Painter guy comes in, sprays and he leaves. They don't need to waste their valuable skills (and expensive time) on doing the "grunt work" - like making and clean up tasks.

Due to high cost of Spray Foam, don't think I'd `purposely` remove the under belly factory fiber glass insualtion and replace with Spray Foam. But if rebuilding a floor (due to critter removals - like on my wife's TT) or replacing rotten flooring, I'd get Spray Foam again. Especially if I plan to keep a trailer a long, long time.

Hope this helps in your research as well...

.

[PennyPA]

What is the general price range of this stuff? I know it would vary by length of RV but what were some of the prices you were quoted for your length of RV? And what is the length of your RV?

[batman99]

Gnarly wrote:
Thanx! ~Gnarly

Glad I can help in your insulation research. The more and more I research "spray foam" (using today's spray foam chemicals) with TTs / RVs, the more I like the idea. Spray Floam in walls, roof and under flooring - instead of traditional factory "thin at best" fiber glass. For a cool comparison video, surf: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IBu19XyBLLA Simular video for inside van walls (instead of TT's under flooring), surf: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mrHSAMzi3a4&feature=related

Note: Do shop around. Even for same 2 lbs "closed cell" spray foam chemicals, prices do dramatically vary. Especially when they also factor in travel time.

Good luck with your future insultation mod...

.

[Gnarly]

Thanx!
~Gnarly

[batman99]

Gnarly wrote:
Looks great,batman99! Question about the foam insulation,please: Whereja get it? Equipment needed? How difficult to apply? How hard to get even thickness? Really,really liked that idea too. ~Gnarly

The 2 lbs Closed Cell spray foam under our seasonal site TT is 3.5" to 4.0" thick. It was installed by a professional contractor - who is licensed in Faom Spraying. Before spraying, I wrapped the slide motor, slide rails, holding take valves, etc. etc. with plastic. After spraying, I simply removed their plastic wrappings. Thus, stopping even accidentaly over spray on these sensitive areas. If wondering, he brought his large truck that had 2 long hoses. Chemical A and chemical B. They mix at the tip of his gun - as he's laying on his back - under our TT. A dirty job that isn't for everyone.

To find a Spray Foam contractor, I simply hit my phone book and starting calling all Building / Insulation companies in my area. I even asked my local lumber stores for insulation company recommendations. Of the 25 folks I contacted / called, only 5 companies were willing to do "such a small job". I then picked the best company I felt was best - which wasn't the best price. I picked the one who did Trailers in their past and understood and pros/cons of doing an underside of the TT. If wondering, Spray Foam is approx 4-5 times "more" cost then fiber glass insulation - of same square footage. But to me, Spray Faom is well worth it. Especially since we plan to keep our TT for 10+ years. To me, the underside of all trailers should be spray foam - just like the very expensive RVs. Will send you more pictures via PM.

Good luck!!!

.

[batman99]

Gnarly wrote:
Looks great,batman99! I gotta confess: I never thought of adding a small 12V fan to the backside of our TT fridge! Have a small one INSIDE the fridge,but that is a superb idea....and prob'ly cheap insurance re: longevity. ~Gnarly

There's 2 methods to install a 12V fan in the rear location of one's fridge.

One option is to visit your nearest RV dealer and inquire about their "store bought" 12V with thermostate systems. For example: - Click Here -

Another option is to install your own parts. Some folks install 1 x large 120mm 60+ CFMs Computer box chassis fan. Others install 2 or more smaller size / 30+ CFMs fans. To view how EVT0005 installed his 1 x large size fan, surf pictures at: - Click here for Page 72 of this thread -

For me, I like this "extra" 1 x large size 12V fan. When the weather is above 80+ days, I manually turn this 12V fan on. In the future, it will purchase / install a $7.00 thermal switch for it. re: Turns ON when temps above 80F and turns its self OFF when temps drop below 75F. Even if using a 80/75F thermal switch, I'd still install an inline 12V fuse (3A) and a manual off/on switch. Thus, turn it off at night - when other sensitive ears try to sleep. To me, an "extra" fan should be factory build. Especially for folks who have trailers in the extreme hot weather locations. Minimum code vs `better then minimum` code thing.

To me, installing an extra high flow FAN(for above minimum code) upgrade at rear of fridge for my "extreme hot days" was worth it. With fan installed, we were able to turn of fridge cooling setting for 4 to 3 (thus, less operating hours as well).

.

[Gnarly]

Looks great,batman99!

I gotta confess: I never thought of adding a small 12V fan to the backside of our TT fridge! Have a small one INSIDE the fridge,but that is a superb idea....and prob'ly cheap insurance re: longevity.

Question about the foam insulation,please: Whereja get it? Equipment needed? How difficult to apply? How hard to get even thickness?

Really,really liked that idea too.

~Gnarly

[batman99]

For my wife's seasonal site 2006 Jayco travel trailer:

- Installed 120mm 12V DC fan (72 CFMs) on the rear of its fridge. Connected to inline 3A fuse and a manual off/on switch (to turn off during quit times - like at night - when sound travels far). Next time I'm in the west side of town, I'll get a $7.00 75F/85F thermal switch for it. For now, this Super Quiet fan is using manual off/on controls. Surf:
- Click Here 1 -
- Click Here 2 -

- Installed 110/120V-30A Surge Guard (hard wire) version. Surf:
- Click Here 1 -
- Click Here 2 -

- Installed 12V battery switch on its tongue area. For pictures, surf:
- Click Here 1 -
- Click Here 2 -

- Most recent mod is removal of its factory `plastic` under belly pan, removed its under floor soft fabric sheet and removed its under floor thin fiberglass insulation (that was home to a few `critters`). Replaced these unless materials with 3.5" to 4.0" of Professional Grade spray foam (2 lbs Closed Cell Foam). For pictures of before and after, surf:
- Click Here 1 -
- Click Here 2 -
- Click Here 3 -
- Click Here 4 -
- Click Here 5 -
- Click Here 6 -


For our next planned upgrade, we'll focus on a Slide Out Topper. For example: - Click Here - We'll probably target this expensive mod in Spring 2011.

.

[Fisherguy]

Wow Larry, maybe some things in an RV are more important to other people than the angles for watching TV from the sofa.

Looks good Batt, kinda makes you wish you were a little better with wood eh? I wish I could do that kinda thing.

[LarryJM]

battscrew wrote:
Here is our first mod. Don't know why the manufacturer would put such a small TV cabinet for a perm type parked trailer. Went from a 26 to a 37, thought a 40 might be a little overkill....PS I hired someone to do it.

How the heck do you see that if sitting on the couch in the first pic:h

When we were shopping for our current trailer 95% of the layouts were poor for watching TV at best ... wierd angles, up too high, etc.

Larry
Moderator edit to re-size quoted picture